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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Brake Issues

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Brake Issues -- page: 1 2     46coupe 08-30-2017 @ 4:52 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Thanks for the link which is very helpful. Apparently the fluid was contaminated to cause so much trouble. I'll flush the system as suggested and with the new parts and new fluid, hopefully all of it will work for a long time. Of all the old cars I've had this is the first time I have ever had this much trouble with brakes. Most of those cars never got the fluid changed and no problems. Guess I was just lucky and ignorance was bliss:) Thanks again for your help. Brad TomO 08-28-2017 @ 6:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is the link http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_brakes-pics/Flathead_Brakes_mastercyl_1939-40.jpg The rust comes from the cast iron wheel cylinders. The aluminum corrosion is white and the pistons will corrode if left in a water solution for a long period of time. DOT 3 brake fluid attracts water, so if you did not use a fresh can of brake fluid, it may have had water in it. With that amount of corrosion, I would flush the brake system with denatured alcohol and then again with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid before the new parts are installed. You will have to plug the rear lines in order to flush the front lines. The only way that I know how to print certain sections is to highlight the sections and copy them and then past the copies into a word processing program. You can then prit from the program. Tom 46coupe 08-28-2017 @ 6:35 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 I have pics of the wheel cylinders that we took out. Lots of rust on the pistons and wheel cylinder walls. The piston in one of the cylinders would not budge until I kept flushing it with hot water and it finally broke free. How does "aluminum" rust, or the honed walls of the cylinders rust? The brake lines had been flushed, new fluid was added less than 6 months ago and the car is kept in a temp controlled garage. 46coupe 08-27-2017 @ 5:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Hi Tom, Did not get the link. Have ordered new rear wheel cylinders and a new master cylinder. When these are installed all parts will be new, except the metal lines which seem ok. Installing on Wed., I hope. I'll let you all know how it goes and if there are anymore problems with the brakes. Sure hope not. Can I print out certain sections of this thread by highlighting them, instead of the whole thread getting printed? Thanks TomO 08-25-2017 @ 7:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 Here is a link to the master cylinder cutaway drawing. The bypass port must be open when the brakes are released and the intake valve also acts as a residual valve. Too much freeplay will only lower the pedal, so you can add 2 turns of freeplay to the pedal to see if that is your problem. The brake fluid expands as it get warm from use, so the freeplay could seem to be OK when the fluid is cool, but end up as not enough when the fluid is warm. If adding 2 turns of freeplay fixes the problem, you can back off 1 turn and recheck the free play and brake action. If it does not fix the problem, the intake valve may be defective. Most local parts houses can order a new or re-manufactured master cylinder. Rust on the wheel cylinder pistons should not cause this problem as they should be aluminum and the rubber cups provide the seal. Tom carcrazy 08-24-2017 @ 8:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1653 Joined: Oct 2009 One thing that could cause the front wheel hubs to get very hot is front wheel bearings that are too tight. 46coupe 08-24-2017 @ 3:29 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 That's an idea we can try with the old MC. Also where is the valve located in the master cylinder? Going to N.C. tomorrow to see family and will be going to Dennis Carpenters on Saturday for new rear cylinders, and possibly a new master cylinder. Any other ideas are appreciated. 40cpe 08-24-2017 @ 3:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 472 Joined: Jan 2010 You can check if built-up pressure is the cause of your problem. I would get it to the point of not rolling easily and break the connection of the brake line at the master cylinder. If it bleeds pressure and the car rolls, you have narrowed the problem to the master cylinder. If it is still locked, work toward each end until it frees up. 46coupe 08-24-2017 @ 3:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 271 Joined: Oct 2015 Just got back from the garage where we installed new front wheel cylinders. My new wheel cylinder kits that I had installed less than a year ago had rust on the pistons [probably wrong term}. Bled the brakes. Also we checked the free play as soon as the car was lifted. It was ok. Test drove the car and it seemed to work ok. Drove the car 4 miles home and pulled into the garage. Checked the front hubs which were hot. The rear was luke warm. Put the car in neutral and it would not budge. Any ideas? The rear cylinders were rebuilt, but after seeing what the fronts looked like, I'll probably replace them with new complete ones. Brake hoses were replaced when this started initially. The new hoses corrected the lock up problem at that point. Could the new hoses be collapsing? The car will go back to the garage next week and the master cylinder valve will be checked. We will also be turning the drums to clean them up and double checking the shoe adjustments {new shoes already installed}. The only things left to replace after the rear cylinders will be all the springs. Very frustrating. Will welcome any other ideas to try. supereal 08-22-2017 @ 2:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The master cylinder has a valve in it that keeps a small amount of pressure in the lines as the brakes are used. This prevents having to pump the pedal each time you stop. If this valve isn't working properly, the first symptom is that the brakes begin to drag, and may eventually lock the car from moving.

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