Posted By |
Discussion Topic:
Mechanical vs Hydraulic Brakes
-- page:
1
2
|
|
doghair3 |
08-03-2017 @ 5:08 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Apr 2016
|
Gentlemen, I'm sure this topic has been discussed before but since I'm a newbe I'll bring it up again. My 35 has the original mechanical brakes and they are already giving me some headaches. Curious to know the trials and tribulations of installing Hydraulic brakes and was it worth it. I am well aware it's going to cost you points if you show the car but I want to enjoy driving the thing. Can anybody recommend a good quality vendor and also opinions as if I should do it. I have become somewhat of a purist but I want the car to be safe for me and all those who ride in it. I got thick skin so start hacking away. Thanks to all. Tom H.
|
kubes40 |
08-03-2017 @ 6:20 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Tom, You can make the modifications in such a way that no cutting, etc. has to be done. In other words, should you, or a future owner decide to bring it back to stock, it can be done fairly simple. If you go this route, please, do yourself a favor and save every piece. That being said, whether you stay with the mechanicals or swap to hydraulic, the old Ford just won't stop like your new Honda. Or the guy's new Honda that just pulled in front of you and slammed on his brakes. The mechanical system when restored properly will stop as good, if not better than the hydraulic system. Unless of course you decide to swap it out for a much more modern hydraulic system - disc, etc. Still, the old Ford itself will never be as safe as a modern car.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
ford38v8 |
08-03-2017 @ 6:52 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
|
Tom, I see that Kube has done some studying. He's got more to learn, but at least on this issue, he's got it right.
Alan
|
mrtexas |
08-03-2017 @ 7:27 PM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Dec 2011
|
It is a lot more expensive to make mechanical brakes like new. I spent $2000 getting my model A mechanicals rebuilt by Snyders including all new cast iron drums. You really need a just like new brake system if you want to stop good with mechanical brakes. For $1000 you can put on late model discs on the front and new lincoln bendix brakes on the rear with new drums. I've done that to my 36 and 41. I wouldn't bother with the very inferior Ford lockheed brakes although they can be made to work with a lot of trouble and work.
This message was edited by mrtexas on 8-3-17 @ 7:29 PM
|
Sneezer |
08-04-2017 @ 4:08 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 63
Joined: Aug 2016
|
I installed a Flathead Ted's Kit on my 35 coupe a year ago. Car stops as good as a hydraulic setup in later on flatheads. Just make sure that your rod and clevis holes are not sloppy. His kit give you the feeling of confidence that the car will actually stop with minimal foot pressure. My results, yours may vary.
|
kubes40 |
08-04-2017 @ 6:24 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 3406
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I'd installed a set of Ted's Floaters on a 34 coupe last year. AMAZING difference in stopping performance. Reasonably priced, no permanent modifications and rather easy to install.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth
|
flatheadfan |
08-04-2017 @ 11:58 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 450
Joined: Oct 2009
|
I guess I am going to disagree with some about mechanical brakes. To have effective mechanical brakes everything must be in near perfect condition. This means rods, bushings, wedges, springs, woven shoes, floaters and clevises. Some of these things are impossible to find in perfect condition and when found can be pricey. I have Ford hydraulics on my '35 and '36 using standard '46-'48 brakes, and a V8 Shop master cylinder fixture. This is coupled to a '57 T-Bird vacuum booster . The entire system is trouble free requiring minimal maintenance and literally rivals a new car in application. Tom
|
doghair3 |
08-05-2017 @ 5:09 AM
|
|
|
Member
Posts: 13
Joined: Apr 2016
|
Thanks to all who gave of their time to respond. My desire is to keep the car as original as possible so I'm going to keep the mechanical brakes and give Flathead Ted's upgrade a try before I do anything drastic. Again thanks to everybody for your opinions. Tom H.
|
ford38v8 |
08-05-2017 @ 11:10 PM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
|
flathead fan, I'm sure you have a good effective braking system, and I'm also sure you'd describe it as being in near perfect condition, as indeed, no car should be on the public highway with brakes in less than near perfect condition. As proud of your brakes you must be, please also remember that there are countless others with mechanical brakes that are very much as effective as yours, and in near perfect condition as well. We have all come a long way in the maintenance and safety of our cars, haven't we? I well remember (as a kid), driving the streets of Oakland/Berkeley, not knowing if my brake pedal would go to the floor or not should I have to stop suddenly. The emergency brake was aptly named, and was often used as such. The fact is, early hydraulic brakes were considerably less reliable than mechanical brakes of the late 30's. Remember old Henry's sales motto? "The safety of steel from pedal to wheel."
Alan
|
woodiewagon46 |
08-06-2017 @ 8:51 AM
|
|
|
Senior
Posts: 704
Joined: Nov 2012
|
I would rebuild the mechanical system if it was my car. Sure it might be costly, I just spent about a grand for new cast iron drums and shoes alone for my Model A, but a properly rebuilt mechanical brake system for your application will work just fine. Any component that has "play" in it must be addressed. Remember, in a mechanical system, every 1/16" or 1/8" of "slop" will add up. There is no such thing as a "modern" brake kit that is entirely modification free. All kits require holes drilled in your chassis somewhere for a master cylinder bracket or other component.
|