| doghair3 | -- 08-03-2017 @ 5:08 PM |
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Gentlemen, I'm sure this topic has been discussed before but since I'm a newbe I'll bring it up again. My 35 has the original mechanical brakes and they are already giving me some headaches. Curious to know the trials and tribulations of installing Hydraulic brakes and was it worth it. I am well aware it's going to cost you points if you show the car but I want to enjoy driving the thing. Can anybody recommend a good quality vendor and also opinions as if I should do it. I have become somewhat of a purist but I want the car to be safe for me and all those who ride in it. I got thick skin so start hacking away. Thanks to all. Tom H.
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| kubes40 | -- 08-03-2017 @ 6:20 PM |
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Tom, You can make the modifications in such a way that no cutting, etc. has to be done. In other words, should you, or a future owner decide to bring it back to stock, it can be done fairly simple. If you go this route, please, do yourself a favor and save every piece. That being said, whether you stay with the mechanicals or swap to hydraulic, the old Ford just won't stop like your new Honda. Or the guy's new Honda that just pulled in front of you and slammed on his brakes. The mechanical system when restored properly will stop as good, if not better than the hydraulic system. Unless of course you decide to swap it out for a much more modern hydraulic system - disc, etc. Still, the old Ford itself will never be as safe as a modern car. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-03-2017 @ 6:52 PM |
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Tom, I see that Kube has done some studying. He's got more to learn, but at least on this issue, he's got it right. Alan
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| mrtexas | -- 08-03-2017 @ 7:27 PM |
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It is a lot more expensive to make mechanical brakes like new. I spent $2000 getting my model A mechanicals rebuilt by Snyders including all new cast iron drums. You really need a just like new brake system if you want to stop good with mechanical brakes. For $1000 you can put on late model discs on the front and new lincoln bendix brakes on the rear with new drums. I've done that to my 36 and 41. I wouldn't bother with the very inferior Ford lockheed brakes although they can be made to work with a lot of trouble and work. This message was edited by mrtexas on 8-3-17 @ 7:29 PM
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| Sneezer | -- 08-04-2017 @ 4:08 AM |
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I installed a Flathead Ted's Kit on my 35 coupe a year ago. Car stops as good as a hydraulic setup in later on flatheads. Just make sure that your rod and clevis holes are not sloppy. His kit give you the feeling of confidence that the car will actually stop with minimal foot pressure. My results, yours may vary.
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| kubes40 | -- 08-04-2017 @ 6:24 AM |
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I'd installed a set of Ted's Floaters on a 34 coupe last year. AMAZING difference in stopping performance. Reasonably priced, no permanent modifications and rather easy to install. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| flatheadfan | -- 08-04-2017 @ 11:58 AM |
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I guess I am going to disagree with some about mechanical brakes. To have effective mechanical brakes everything must be in near perfect condition. This means rods, bushings, wedges, springs, woven shoes, floaters and clevises. Some of these things are impossible to find in perfect condition and when found can be pricey. I have Ford hydraulics on my '35 and '36 using standard '46-'48 brakes, and a V8 Shop master cylinder fixture. This is coupled to a '57 T-Bird vacuum booster . The entire system is trouble free requiring minimal maintenance and literally rivals a new car in application. Tom
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| doghair3 | -- 08-05-2017 @ 5:09 AM |
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Thanks to all who gave of their time to respond. My desire is to keep the car as original as possible so I'm going to keep the mechanical brakes and give Flathead Ted's upgrade a try before I do anything drastic. Again thanks to everybody for your opinions. Tom H.
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| ford38v8 | -- 08-05-2017 @ 11:10 PM |
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flathead fan, I'm sure you have a good effective braking system, and I'm also sure you'd describe it as being in near perfect condition, as indeed, no car should be on the public highway with brakes in less than near perfect condition. As proud of your brakes you must be, please also remember that there are countless others with mechanical brakes that are very much as effective as yours, and in near perfect condition as well. We have all come a long way in the maintenance and safety of our cars, haven't we? I well remember (as a kid), driving the streets of Oakland/Berkeley, not knowing if my brake pedal would go to the floor or not should I have to stop suddenly. The emergency brake was aptly named, and was often used as such. The fact is, early hydraulic brakes were considerably less reliable than mechanical brakes of the late 30's. Remember old Henry's sales motto? "The safety of steel from pedal to wheel." Alan
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 08-06-2017 @ 8:51 AM |
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I would rebuild the mechanical system if it was my car. Sure it might be costly, I just spent about a grand for new cast iron drums and shoes alone for my Model A, but a properly rebuilt mechanical brake system for your application will work just fine. Any component that has "play" in it must be addressed. Remember, in a mechanical system, every 1/16" or 1/8" of "slop" will add up. There is no such thing as a "modern" brake kit that is entirely modification free. All kits require holes drilled in your chassis somewhere for a master cylinder bracket or other component.
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| kubes40 | -- 08-06-2017 @ 10:40 AM |
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I doubt I could have stated the case for safety any better than Alan did in a previous post. To reiterate my opinion stated with an earlier post: I'd stick with the mechanicals. Yes, you should repair any worn pieces within the system. However, if you have some mechanical ability, all repairs are straight forward and far from costly. Worn clevis pins need to be replaced. About .50ยข each. Worn holes in clevis's... weld them up and drill / ream to proper size. Cost? Free if you do it yourself. Worn rollers, etc. are reasonably priced and readily available. Perhaps the most difficult piece to repair properly is the actuator near the "X" member. Still, anyone with decent mechanical skills can install new bushings, etc. and make this piece operate as new. New brake shoes and drums ground properly, along with shoes arced to the drum diameter will go far to make your brakes operate well. I would without question, install Ted's Floaters. You will be amazed at the difference they make in stopping distance. Bottom line? Go for it (rebuilding the mechanical system)... you'll be happy you'd kept the car stock and proud of yourself when the task has been completed. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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| 1934 Ford | -- 08-06-2017 @ 1:02 PM |
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Years ago i gathered 1940 ford spindles, backing plates and drums and did our 34 Tudor with hydraulic brakes. Had to put the master cylinder under the floor (Which was a job to check and fill). When it was all said an done, it didn't stop materially different than mechanical brakes. I had learned to drive the mechanicals with a eye toward safety and the same type of driving continued for another 20 years and a few Glidden tours with the hydraulic's. Would I do it again? (I still have another set of 40 spindles in the barn) NO WAY! I love 1934 Fords for they way they were made and performed, I've left the subsequent 34's bone stock except for glass packs for my listening pleasure. 1934 Ford's since 1972 This message was edited by 1934 Ford on 8-6-17 @ 3:55 PM
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| John07 | -- 10-24-2021 @ 12:37 AM |
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The Differences Between Mechanical and Hydraulic Disc Brakes: Hydraulic Disc Brakes have Hydraulic systems work with fluids. This type transfers force from the lever to the caliper, giving you a greater braking or gripping power level. Hydraulic systems work with fluids and transfer force from the lever to the caliper, giving you a greater braking or gripping power level. They offer maximum braking power that you can easily control. Compared to hydraulic disc brakes, mechanical disc brakes are quite basic. They are also known for being lightweight, which vouches for comfort and stability on your trip. In terms of budget, I recommend this brake type as they are way cheaper than others.
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| JM | -- 10-27-2021 @ 8:46 AM |
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The only way I would consider changing my mechanical brakes to hydraulics would be to go with Lincoln Bendix brakes. John
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| supereal | -- 11-06-2021 @ 2:20 PM |
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A properly adjusted mechanical brake system can be very effective. As noted above, it is heavily dependent on every component of the system being free of excessive wear of the rods, clevises, and the bushings of the cross shaft.The drums need to be examined, and trued or replaced if wear is noted. Woven linings also increase efficiency. If you have the cable type mechanicals, there are usually problems not found in the rod systems. In my Model A days, the car could be stopped quickly, but certainly not always as hydraulics. Many years ago, when I worked for a Ford dealer, the vehicles with mechanical brakes were deemed unsafe, sending them to the salvage yards. This was well before the traffic conditions of today. Restored cars are fit for parades and shows, of course, but off the highways in most cases.
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| wmsteed | -- 11-07-2021 @ 11:16 AM |
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When I purchased my '36 Ford coupe in 1952, I purchased it from the original owner, Mr Blondel, the car had 50k plus on the odometer. The original owner of the car had bought a new '52 Ford. I had known about the '36 since I was in the seventh grade in 1947, the original owner was my wood shop teacher. When I found out that Mr Blondel had bought a new car I beat feet over to his house to find out what he had done, or was going to do with the '36. The car was sitting in the back yard, very dirty and in sad shape. Mr Blondel told me he was waiting for a wrecker to come get the car, stating it was unsafe, because of the mechanical brakes. I told Mr Blondel that I would really like to have the car, and that if he would sell it to me I would convert the brakes to hydraulic before I drove it. Mr Blondel liked what I told him, we agreed on a price, $125., I got a friend to help me tow the car away. I spent a few days cleaning the car up, changed the oil, lubed the chassis and put a new battery in the car. I did drive the car around a bit, my friends were all very impressed that I had secured Mr Blondels 36 Ford. The '36 was the first Ford/car I had ever driven with mechanical brakes, I had always driven Chevy's having had a '40, '41. '38, and a ,'42. The mechanical brakes left much to be desired compared to the GM hydraulics. I very quickly started to gather up the necessary components to convert the brakes on the Ford to hydraulics. My '36 has been extensively modified through out the 69 years that I have owned it, starting out with hydraulic brakes, a 59 AB engine with twice as mush horse power as the original, and suspension improvements. From my point of view, if an owner of a vintage car has the intentions of just driving the car to an occasional BBQ or a Saturday morning coffee with the boys, keep it stock, they are only stock once, however, if the intent is to load the loved ones into the car for an extended cruise to a distant car show, make the vehicle as safe as you possibly can. A fun cruise can turn into a disaster in a wink of an eye. Bill 36 5 win delx cpe
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