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Posted By Discussion Topic: Engine oil stop leak -- page: 1 2     sarahcecelia 08-23-2017 @ 12:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1190 Joined: Mar 2013 Oil pan bolts only take about 6 pounds of torque (can't remember exactly), if you over tighten them, they will leak. I used to work for Buick, and had to take valve covers off, tap them with a hammer on a vise, where the holes for the cap scews were, (to straighten them out)and put new gaskets on, because guys had over tightened and distorted them where the cap screws that held them on went-because they thought that would stop them from leaking; when the answer was a new cork gasket. The old ones got hard, and that caused them to leak. If a good gasket is used, and the cover is tightened evenly, in a criss/cross pattern, and not over tightened, it shouldn't leak. Same with an oil pan. If only a few cap screws leak, take them out, clean them, and put black Permatex on them. Re-install them, and they shouldn't leak again. That black Permatex is nasty to use, but it works well! Hoping to save you from an oil pan removal.....I am..... Regards, Steve Lee 56MarkII 08-05-2017 @ 7:21 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 63 Joined: Jan 2012 And it probably won't either. These flatheads have rope seals packed into a groove or retainer. I don't know what setup the older ones have other than being the same as the 49-54 flatheads (yes we used them here in Canada in 54!!) but the rear seal retainer is an aluminum insert that you install the rope seal into and is placed into the block. If no sealant such as gasket sh*llac or silicone is used BETWEEN this aluminum seal retainer and the cast iron block this rear seal assembly will leak and try to put goop under this retainer with the engine in the car. I ended up removing the transmission etc. and loosened all of the other main bearing caps so the crank would droop below the rear bearing because rolling this insert with sealant under pressure from the seal against the crank just wipes the sealant off rendering the attempt useless. Otherwise as for the rear seal leaking, mine had a rapid drip bordering on a slight trickle when my car was started after a very long storage causing this seal to dry up. I carried extra oil along and drove it. After 10 miles it stopped leaking after the "rope" soaked up oil and swelled. 1934 Ford 08-05-2017 @ 6:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 I have used the Lucas brand stop leak in my 169,000 mile 1981 El Camino 305 V8 and it works real well, but never tried it in a flathead engine. 1934 Ford's since 1972 FordFreak 08-04-2017 @ 4:15 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 116 Joined: Nov 2013 I have a piece of 1/2 " plywood under mine . Works great ! supereal 08-03-2017 @ 12:02 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The old saying about Fords is "If it ain't leakin', it probably needs fixin'". Usually some cardboard on the garage floor is required in the best case. silverchief 08-01-2017 @ 9:28 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 521 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks very much guys. Didn't know that. Now I will take my torque wrench with me, and first try to determine where the leak is actually coming from. len47merc 08-01-2017 @ 8:04 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1165 Joined: Oct 2013 Dovetailing with TomO - 15-18 ft lbs is the torque spec for the oil pan to block bolts. Timing cover is 12-15. I've found checking and re-torqueing these as necessary annually is necessary on my '47. Over-torqueing will definitely produce leaks - spoken by a former 'more-is-better' wrench. Steve TomO 08-01-2017 @ 7:23 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 Bill, before you snug up the oil pan bolts, clean the timing gear cover and oil pan to determine where the leak is. Over tightening the oil pan bolts can make the situation worse by distorting the gasket surface of the pan by the bolt holes. Tom sarahcecelia 07-31-2017 @ 8:06 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1190 Joined: Mar 2013 A pint of brake fluid will stop a rear seal leak as a rule. It will swell the seal a little. I've used it on motors and transmisions of customers cars when I worked for auto dealers, at the advise of my then Service Manager, Ed Hamburger,now CEO and owner of Trik Racing Parts and Hamburger Oil Pans, with good results.One guy with a 1950 Chevy, was losing a about a quart going about 5 or 6 miles to work and back; added the brake fluid- about a week later-NO MORE LEAK!!! Regards, Steve Lee This message was edited by sarahcecelia on 8-23-17 @ 12:14 PM silverchief 07-31-2017 @ 4:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 521 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks for the excellent advice. Makes my decision easy. I estimate I lose about half a quart over a months time. Tomorrow I'm going to the DIY garage and snug up oil pan bolts. Is dropping the pan to replace the gasket a simple matter? Seems I recall a thread indicating it is somewhat involved.

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