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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Vapor lock

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Discussion Topic: Vapor lock -- page: 1 2 3

len47merc

07-14-2017 @ 5:44 AM

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10-4. With that info, were it me I'd focus on a vacuum leak first and check all those connections. If it has exhibited that behavior since day 1 post restoration I'd first take it back to the restoration shop.

Steve

carcrazy

07-14-2017 @ 7:05 AM

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Once had a problem where the engine would quit running after awhile. Cause turned out to be loose primary wire to the coil replacement adapter on the distributor.

TomO

07-14-2017 @ 8:07 AM

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A worn ignition switch would act the same as the loose wire in Carcrazy's post.

To diagnose, connect an analog voltmeter (one with a needle as they react faster than a digital meter) to the input of the coil and vibrate the ignition switch by tapping on it with a screwdriver handle. If the voltmeter reading changes, the switch is bad and needs to be repaired. If the switch passes that test, try turning it on and off several times, if the voltage reading varies from one time to another, the switch should be repaired.

If the switch passes that test, try the vibration test on the resister connections under the dash.

Tom

autoluke

07-18-2017 @ 9:05 AM

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After living with vapor lock in hot weather and slow speeds,I want to pursue all possibilities.
Need to replace the radiator with the newer aluminum units...any problem here ?
Note that I have a 6 blade fan 16" in diameter...Too small ?

need some input from the members, along with any suggestions to lower the temp.

Phil

wmsteed

07-18-2017 @ 10:04 AM

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A bad coil will produce a condition where-as the engine appears to be running out of fuel. I had this happen on my '36 many years ago. Replaced the fuel pump twice before I figured out that the problem was related to low ignition voltage.
Many people don't know that there is a ballast resistor located on the passenger compartment side of the cowl which can also cause problems within the ignition system.

Bill
36 5 win delx cpe

autoluke

07-18-2017 @ 12:44 PM

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Thanks Bill..I'll give it a try.

I note that several parts distributors offer only a "tall" type coil for 1941 V8.

Will this type of coil perform as well as the original cylindrical design ?

woodiewagon46

07-18-2017 @ 12:54 PM

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While we are on the subject of vapor lock, the V-8 Club has approved electric fuel pumps for installation, with no point deduction in judging. I don't think vapor lock is the issue you are having.

supereal

07-19-2017 @ 2:14 PM

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The common cause of backfiring is a vacuum leak to the intake system. Check all hoses for cracks or a loose fit on the hose bark. It can also be a leak under the cap of the retard plunger of the old style distributor, or a leaky intake manifold gasket A vacuum leak lets air into the system that allows unburnt fuel to ignite in the muffler of tailpipe, causing the backfire.

len47merc

07-19-2017 @ 2:28 PM

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Thanks supereal for the endorsement. You know you're making it (EDIT - or might be!) to the big leagues when supereal agrees with you.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 7-19-17 @ 3:31 PM

autoluke

07-20-2017 @ 8:08 AM

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Still dedicated to address all possibilities for the overheating condition.

Would the installation of a fan shroud be helpful ?

Also, what is the correct diameter for the '41 cooling Fan ?

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