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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Flex Fuel Line

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Flex Fuel Line -- page: 1 2 3     supereal 04-19-2010 @ 7:50 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If your fuel pump loses prime, its valves are leaking, and a new pump is in order. Usually, an air leak between the pump and the tank will show up as more than hard starting. If you have an inline fuel filter, be sure to use the worm gear clamps. The spring clamps are not adequate, and will leak as the hose ages. As I have repeatedly said, we are finding obstructed fuel lines now, something that used to be rare. It may be from the "new" gas that is causing crud in the tank to become dislodged, or the loss of the internal copper coating in the line itself, allowing rust from the greater moisture in alcohol gas. These cars have run properly for decades without check valves or fancy couplings. 37RAGTOPMAN 04-18-2010 @ 12:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1965 Joined: Oct 2009 http://maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm COPY AND PASTE INTO YOUR BROWSER BAR check it out,it is interesting, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN Norm 04-18-2010 @ 12:11 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 85 Joined: Oct 2009 I'm having trouble with the logic of this thread. Henry made millions of these things and, indeed, pretty much of them worked just fine. If they worked then they should work now. He didn't include copper washers or a check valve in a vacuum line (bad engineering practice!). Aren't there check valves in the fuel pump? If not, how does it work? Fewer un-necessary parts means less opportunity for trouble. Jerry.Grayson (comment above) has it right. Gas can't leak back down the fuel line attached to the top of the float bowl in the direction of the fuel pump. There's air in the top of the float bowl that would break the siphon if there was one. My view (or IMHO): 1) Make sure the fittings aren't cross-threaded or stripped. 2) Use parts made of modern materials that aren't attacked by ethanol. 3) And last, use quality parts. Norm Norm 04-18-2010 @ 12:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 85 Joined: Oct 2009 I'm having trouble with the logic of this thread. Henry made millions of these things and, indeed, pretty much of them worked just fine. If they worked then they should work now. He didn't include copper washers or a check valve in a vacuum line (bad engineering practice!). Aren't there check valves in the fuel pump? If not, how does it work? Fewer un-necessary parts means less opportunity for trouble. Jerry.Grayson (comment above) has it right. Gas can't leak back down the fuel line attached to the top of the float bowl in the direction of the fuel pump. There's air in the top of the float bowl that would break the siphon if there was one. My view (or IMHO): 1) Make sure the fittings aren't cross-threaded or stripped. 2) Use parts made of modern materials that aren't attacked by ethanol. 3) And last, use quality parts. Norm TomO 04-18-2010 @ 8:18 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7257 Joined: Oct 2009 42ford, I don't understand your comment on the flex line with the valve not working. The flex line is on the input side of the fuel pump and there should be no pressure on that side. A good fuel pump will generate 10 inches of vacuum on the input side at cranking speed. Anything less than 8 inches will result in failure to deliver sufficient fuel. The fuel pump has to lift the gas from the level in the tank to the level of the fuel pump, this can be as much as 10 inches. I have never understood the need for a check valve in the fuel line. When the intake valve in the fuel pump leaks down, the level in the fuel line will be at the level in the tank. Think of a water level consisting of a small tank of water and 20 ft of hose. No matter where you take the open end of the hose, the level of the water in the hose will be at the same level as the water in the tank. 37coupe, the "rubber" bowl gasket is better than the cork gasket as it does not dry out and shrink like cork. You must have had an older gasket that deteriorated, the newer ones are made to be more compatible with today's gasoline. The rubberized cork gasket material also last longer than straight cork gaskets. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 4-18-10 @ 8:45 AM 42ford 04-17-2010 @ 9:28 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 104 Joined: Oct 2009 I bought one with a valve in it. Did not work. Seems the valve needs 4lbs to open. My FP has less. I returned it and got a straight one. Works great 39 Ken 04-17-2010 @ 4:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob, I usually go according to the "KISS" method. I didn't get the flex line with a valve in it. To my way of thinking, a properly operating valve in the fuel pump will suffice. So I got the less expensive hose without the valve; $28 delivered. Quality piece and worth the extra $ to me to know I have the best replacement. Ken supereal 04-17-2010 @ 3:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Ken: I don't think most vendors know what they have, or whether it is "fuel proof". I replaced my flex line a couple of years ago with the ordinary variety when I put in a new fuel line to the tank, and have had no problems. The best test seems to be bending the line and looking for cracks or other damage to the sheath. If you see any signs of deterioration, I'd install a new one. I don't carry a spare in my "road kit" as ,so far, I've had no problems with the flex line. It just seems to me that forty bucks and an unnecessary check valve is overkill. 37 Coupe 04-17-2010 @ 1:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 362 Joined: Oct 2009 You were lucky to get that many miles out of the flex hose,the last one I got from a "known vendor" ,okay I will say it Mac's was not made in China as they told me but it was made in Switzerland,they should stick to chocolate. Also got one from Bob Shewman the gadjiteer,looks good so far so good. I too do not undertsand the need for "tapered copper washers", do you mean the brass ferrules? My "ethanol proof" or compatible fuel pump rebuild from Antique Parts Cellar was the most expensive of all rebuilders and lasted one year, brought it home on a rollback. Been using Airtex pump from Napa ,brand new half the price of Antique Parts cellar rebuild of an old pump,but beware of the rubber or neoprene gasket instead of cork for glass bowl it is not compatible will swell and turn spongey and leak air. 39 Ken 04-17-2010 @ 1:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Super, I bought one of those good quality hoses from a respected vendor. He told me that he couldn't quarentee that the hose would hold up with the new gas but his supplier told him it would. Fast forward 7 months and about 1200 miles later and the hose failed. It started coming apart from the inside and clogged up the carb. I just replaced it with a new hose from Robert Shewman. Excellant quality and looks like the original. He warrents the hose for 5 years (the other one wasn't guarenteed after it left the vendor). As he says, his hose is made of "Space Age material" (see his ad in the EFV8 Times) and it won't break down with todays gas. Also, the material and the hoses are USA made. I like that. Shewmans hoses are a bit more expensive but they are obviously of much better quality than what the other vendors are selling which gives me the peace of mind that the flex hose is one less place to expect a problem while I'm on the road. I don't have any stock in the Shewman company but I heartily endorse his hoses. He can be reached at gadgiteer@ aol.com for more infomation. JMO. Ken

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