| sunflower | -- 04-12-2010 @ 10:38 AM |
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I am replaceing the rubber flexable fuel line on my 35Ford do I need a gas proof sealer on the threads going into my fuel pump what should I use? Thanks in advance. Sun.
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| supereal | -- 04-12-2010 @ 11:39 AM |
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If they are the correct fittings, they don't need sealer.
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| v8teditor | -- 04-13-2010 @ 2:35 PM |
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There is now a gentleman making NEW fuel flex lines that are impervious to the newer fuel. He also has a version with a check valve that does not allow the gas to seep back into the tank meaning it stays in the carburetor ready for the next start eliminating the need to pump the carb bowl full of gas before starting. These are pricey, around $40 for the one with the check valve. He advertises in the V-8 TIMES. Might be worth checking out for more details. Or ask here on the forum for feedback from anyone who has installed one of these. They are fairly new.
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| Stroker | -- 04-13-2010 @ 3:23 PM |
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The flex fuel line has always been a point of frustration on early Fords. The old "Weatherhead" style was a little easier to trouble-shoot, as it was rubber covered, and if you sharply flexed it, you would see the cracks leading down into the fabric reinforcement. Later after-market flex lines were wrapped with a metal braided outer sleeve, which makes sense on a pressure line, but not on a line that is a suction line. The metal braid essentially hid the deterioration of the hose contained within, making it hard to trouble-shoot. In essence, that line has to be air-tight. If air bleeds in, the pump cannot pump air. Lack of evidence of fuel leakage does not mean that the line is OK. Yes! check out your V8 Times, and order a good flex line, as described above.
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-14-2010 @ 5:10 AM |
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ANTIQUE PARTS CELLAR in MASS, Sells a nice flex line, and also has the 2 copper tapered washers, so you get no leak back into the fuel tank from the car sitting and causeing hard starting I installed one in my 37 FORD V8 years ago and have had no issues, hope this helps 37RAGTOPMAN
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| jerry.grayson | -- 04-14-2010 @ 2:02 PM |
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I have never seen the need for a check valve. The fill line to the carburetor is above the fuel level so how can it drain back to the tank? The fuel goes somewhere, but it cannot go back to the tank. It either evaporates or leaks down in the engine. I vote for leaking down in the engine!!
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| 51f1 | -- 04-14-2010 @ 4:30 PM |
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If your fuel leaks down from your pump, you need to rebuild or replace your pump. Installing a flex line with a check valve just masks the problem. Richard
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-14-2010 @ 4:50 PM |
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gravity makes the fuel run back to the tank, the tank is lower then the fuel line, and carb, the AIR leaks in the fitting in the flex line overtime and this causes the fuel to drain back to the tank, give PARTS CELLAR a call and I think the owners name is Tom,he will explain, if you replaced your line with the 2 tapered copper washers you would see what I am talking about, NO MORE POURING GAS DOWN THE CARB,!!! there is also the pressure in the atmoshere , THINK about this, how does a barometer work ? low pressure high reading, high pressure low reading, this is the one with liguid in it, this also gets included in the mix of things, if you pour gas in the carb to start you are putting raw gas in your crankcase,, and thinning your oil, if your carb drips, this is a thing you must repair, if you think this is happening, next time you drive you car,take the aircleaner off after shutting it off, look down the throat of the carb and see if it drips, I think there is also a little amount that evaporates but not enough to empty the bowl? also on the 97 carb, there are 2 to brass plugs for the main jets, these 2 brass screws also seep gas,they need good gaskets, if your car sits, just run your fingers in the front under the bowl and you might feels sticky gas residue there,or use a mirror my 3 cents37RAGTOPMAN, This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-14-10 @ 5:22 PM
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| oldford2 | -- 04-14-2010 @ 5:42 PM |
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I just ordered a new line from Gadgeteer.com (sp). I have heard many stories of the lines being "dissolved" (sp) by the new gas so thought I would break the "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" rule. We are headed to Nova Scotia in August in our 46 and I am trying to think of any problem that might happen. Plus a trunk full of spare parts. I will have my EFV8 roster with me just in case I need help enroute. John
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-16-2010 @ 5:14 AM |
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oldford2 are you taking RT1 up though Maine to NOVA SCOTIA I am on RT1 half way up.in SEARSPORT, STOP IN, 37RAGTOPMAN LOOK for the LIGHTHOUSES on the FRONT YARD
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| supereal | -- 04-16-2010 @ 7:56 AM |
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A good quality, fuel proof, flex line is available for about $7.50 from most vendors. There were some problems at one time with the new gas attacking the lines because so many flex lines were old stock. If you buy from a high volume (no pun intended) dealer, you will save money. No check valve is required.
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| oldford2 | -- 04-16-2010 @ 5:52 PM |
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37 ragtopman, We will stay off the interstates as much as possible (3.78 rearend) so will take rt. 1 thru Maine. We may have a Mitch*ll rearend by then but still in no hurry and like roads like Rt 1. I will have our EFV8 roster with us just in case we need help along the way. Thanks for the offer to stop. John oldford2@verizon.net
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| jerry.grayson | -- 04-17-2010 @ 7:22 AM |
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Look at the carburetor and think about the fuel level in the bowl. The fuel line is higher than the fuel level in the bowl. If the check valves in the pump are not working and the fuel runs back to the tank because of gravity the fuel in the carburetor is not affected because the fuel in the bowl is below the fuel line. Even if the fuel drains back to the tank, there is some fuel left in the bowl, enough to start the engine and pump gas up in the system. What are the "tapered copper washers"? If the threads and Ford nuts and ferrules are good where do they go?
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| 39 Ken | -- 04-17-2010 @ 1:01 PM |
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Super, I bought one of those good quality hoses from a respected vendor. He told me that he couldn't quarentee that the hose would hold up with the new gas but his supplier told him it would. Fast forward 7 months and about 1200 miles later and the hose failed. It started coming apart from the inside and clogged up the carb. I just replaced it with a new hose from Robert Shewman. Excellant quality and looks like the original. He warrents the hose for 5 years (the other one wasn't guarenteed after it left the vendor). As he says, his hose is made of "Space Age material" (see his ad in the EFV8 Times) and it won't break down with todays gas. Also, the material and the hoses are USA made. I like that. Shewmans hoses are a bit more expensive but they are obviously of much better quality than what the other vendors are selling which gives me the peace of mind that the flex hose is one less place to expect a problem while I'm on the road. I don't have any stock in the Shewman company but I heartily endorse his hoses. He can be reached at gadgiteer@ aol.com for more infomation. JMO. Ken
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| 37 Coupe | -- 04-17-2010 @ 1:58 PM |
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You were lucky to get that many miles out of the flex hose,the last one I got from a "known vendor" ,okay I will say it Mac's was not made in China as they told me but it was made in Switzerland,they should stick to chocolate. Also got one from Bob Shewman the gadjiteer,looks good so far so good. I too do not undertsand the need for "tapered copper washers", do you mean the brass ferrules? My "ethanol proof" or compatible fuel pump rebuild from Antique Parts Cellar was the most expensive of all rebuilders and lasted one year, brought it home on a rollback. Been using Airtex pump from Napa ,brand new half the price of Antique Parts cellar rebuild of an old pump,but beware of the rubber or neoprene gasket instead of cork for glass bowl it is not compatible will swell and turn spongey and leak air.
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| supereal | -- 04-17-2010 @ 3:10 PM |
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Ken: I don't think most vendors know what they have, or whether it is "fuel proof". I replaced my flex line a couple of years ago with the ordinary variety when I put in a new fuel line to the tank, and have had no problems. The best test seems to be bending the line and looking for cracks or other damage to the sheath. If you see any signs of deterioration, I'd install a new one. I don't carry a spare in my "road kit" as ,so far, I've had no problems with the flex line. It just seems to me that forty bucks and an unnecessary check valve is overkill.
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| 39 Ken | -- 04-17-2010 @ 4:54 PM |
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Bob, I usually go according to the "KISS" method. I didn't get the flex line with a valve in it. To my way of thinking, a properly operating valve in the fuel pump will suffice. So I got the less expensive hose without the valve; $28 delivered. Quality piece and worth the extra $ to me to know I have the best replacement. Ken
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| 42ford | -- 04-17-2010 @ 9:28 PM |
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I bought one with a valve in it. Did not work. Seems the valve needs 4lbs to open. My FP has less. I returned it and got a straight one. Works great
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| TomO | -- 04-18-2010 @ 8:18 AM |
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42ford, I don't understand your comment on the flex line with the valve not working. The flex line is on the input side of the fuel pump and there should be no pressure on that side. A good fuel pump will generate 10 inches of vacuum on the input side at cranking speed. Anything less than 8 inches will result in failure to deliver sufficient fuel. The fuel pump has to lift the gas from the level in the tank to the level of the fuel pump, this can be as much as 10 inches. I have never understood the need for a check valve in the fuel line. When the intake valve in the fuel pump leaks down, the level in the fuel line will be at the level in the tank. Think of a water level consisting of a small tank of water and 20 ft of hose. No matter where you take the open end of the hose, the level of the water in the hose will be at the same level as the water in the tank. 37coupe, the "rubber" bowl gasket is better than the cork gasket as it does not dry out and shrink like cork. You must have had an older gasket that deteriorated, the newer ones are made to be more compatible with today's gasoline. The rubberized cork gasket material also last longer than straight cork gaskets. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 4-18-10 @ 8:45 AM
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| Norm | -- 04-18-2010 @ 12:09 PM |
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I'm having trouble with the logic of this thread. Henry made millions of these things and, indeed, pretty much of them worked just fine. If they worked then they should work now. He didn't include copper washers or a check valve in a vacuum line (bad engineering practice!). Aren't there check valves in the fuel pump? If not, how does it work? Fewer un-necessary parts means less opportunity for trouble. Jerry.Grayson (comment above) has it right. Gas can't leak back down the fuel line attached to the top of the float bowl in the direction of the fuel pump. There's air in the top of the float bowl that would break the siphon if there was one. My view (or IMHO): 1) Make sure the fittings aren't cross-threaded or stripped. 2) Use parts made of modern materials that aren't attacked by ethanol. 3) And last, use quality parts. Norm
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| Norm | -- 04-18-2010 @ 12:11 PM |
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I'm having trouble with the logic of this thread. Henry made millions of these things and, indeed, pretty much of them worked just fine. If they worked then they should work now. He didn't include copper washers or a check valve in a vacuum line (bad engineering practice!). Aren't there check valves in the fuel pump? If not, how does it work? Fewer un-necessary parts means less opportunity for trouble. Jerry.Grayson (comment above) has it right. Gas can't leak back down the fuel line attached to the top of the float bowl in the direction of the fuel pump. There's air in the top of the float bowl that would break the siphon if there was one. My view (or IMHO): 1) Make sure the fittings aren't cross-threaded or stripped. 2) Use parts made of modern materials that aren't attacked by ethanol. 3) And last, use quality parts. Norm
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| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-18-2010 @ 12:34 PM |
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http://maritimedragracing.com/antique_auto_parts_cellar.htm COPY AND PASTE INTO YOUR BROWSER BAR check it out,it is interesting, my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN
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| supereal | -- 04-19-2010 @ 7:50 AM |
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If your fuel pump loses prime, its valves are leaking, and a new pump is in order. Usually, an air leak between the pump and the tank will show up as more than hard starting. If you have an inline fuel filter, be sure to use the worm gear clamps. The spring clamps are not adequate, and will leak as the hose ages. As I have repeatedly said, we are finding obstructed fuel lines now, something that used to be rare. It may be from the "new" gas that is causing crud in the tank to become dislodged, or the loss of the internal copper coating in the line itself, allowing rust from the greater moisture in alcohol gas. These cars have run properly for decades without check valves or fancy couplings.
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