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Posted By Discussion Topic: Engine bogs down -- page: 1 2     dgmgohl 06-25-2017 @ 7:51 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Jun 2017 I have a 53 Mercury Flathead in my 1952 Mainline. When starting the car, it idles out nicely. But when rev'd up, it bogs down. Same when driving in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear. Installed new points, condenser, rotor, coil. Re-timed. I did turn the jets out a half a turn with no response. Drbrown 06-25-2017 @ 8:44 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 570 Joined: Nov 2013 Sounds like you are driving a standard shift (Fordomatic might indicate different considerations). Recommend using a vac gauge when adjusting the idle screws. Given your engine's lack of response under load it doesn't seem the idle screw settings are the problem. Others here can better advise you re possible carb or possible vac advance problems. carcrazy 06-25-2017 @ 9:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1652 Joined: Oct 2009 Are you sure the ignition timing is correct? Check the spark advance with a timing light to make sure it is properly set and that the vacuum controlled spark advance system is functioning as it should. The initial timing at idle should occur when the ball on the front pulley lines up with the pointer. Maximum spark advance should be between 15 to 17 crankshaft degrees when the engine is revved up. Are you using the original carburetor and distributor on this engine? The distributor wants to get a vacuum signal from the venturi area of the original carburetor. If you are using a different carburetor, your spark advance signal to the distributor will be wrong. An engine will usually bog down when it gets too much air too fast causing a lean condition. Is you accelerator pump working properly? dgmgohl 06-26-2017 @ 5:26 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Jun 2017 Yes, the carb is newer. I bought a rebuilt, bench tested "tea pot", and it was running fine till I changed points, condenser. I did re-set the timing. TomO 06-26-2017 @ 6:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7250 Joined: Oct 2009 The vacuum hose must be removed and plugged when you are setting the timing. Check inside the distributor for frayed wires that could ground out when the point plate rotates. Check the spark at the plugs for a nice 1/2" sparrk when a plug wire is held close to a head bolt. Tom dgmgohl 06-26-2017 @ 8:09 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 3 Joined: Jun 2017 Yes, I did remove the vacuum line before timing. I will check the wire for frayed touches. Thanks. supereal 06-26-2017 @ 9:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The last time I fixed that problem, it turned to be that the nut on the battery side of the starter solenoid had come loose where the big cable connects. The car ran fine until you tried going up an incline, then power was lost. The poor contact reduced the power to the coil. fordv8j 06-26-2017 @ 1:27 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 176 Joined: Jan 2015 I put a new napa round coil on my 38 coupe, it would idle fine, but the engine wouldn't rev up, I think it had a built in resister supereal 06-28-2017 @ 1:41 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The quickest way to diagnose your problem is with a vacuum gauge. If you have access to one, I can provide the chart. Be sure the vacuum is taken from above the venturi rather that from an outlet such as the wiper connection. supereal 06-30-2017 @ 9:53 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Check your muffler and tail pipe for an obstruction. Tap the case of the muffler with a hammer. If you get a dull thud, the muffler is probably filed with carbon, etc. I have seen mufflers so full that they were very heavy. When they become obstructed, the first sign is a loss of power because the engine can't breathe. Years ago, a common prank was to use a potato jammed into the tailpipe to cause the same situation you report.

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