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Discussion Topic:
Engine bogs down
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sarahcecelia |
07-13-2017 @ 5:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mar 2013
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That clogged muffler is a good suggestion; that would definitely cause the motor to "bog down!"
Regards, Steve Lee
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sarahcecelia |
07-13-2017 @ 5:21 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1183
Joined: Mar 2013
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Those screws aren't jets! They are idle mixture adjustments, and when they are set, leave them out of the equation!!They only work at idle!! They are really 'Bleed Screws" and when you turn them in they close (BLEED) the gas at idle. If you lose power at a constanly held speed, I would suspect that the main jets are clogged. If you loose power on acceleration, it would be the power valve or the tube in the throat of the carb that is clogged, or partially clogged. It provides fuel when the vacuum drops between idle and power.Look in the throat with the car not running. Move the throttle on the carb and watch the flow that "squirts " down the throat- it should be a little stream that shoots right STRAIGHT down the middle of the throat; if it doesn't, or squirts the fuel on any side of the throat, the car will hesitate on acceleration. If you get nothing, the power valve is shot.
Regards, Steve Lee
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supereal |
07-06-2017 @ 12:58 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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One other suggestion: If the exhaust system has a valve, either the thermostatic type with a coiled spring and weight, or the internal "duck bill" valve, odds are that they are stuck nearly or completely from rust and carbon. Look at the rear of he right side exhaust manifold. With the spring type, try to move the lever to see if it is free. The pipe to the muffler must be removed to inspect the other type.. Those valves were intended to aid in warmup by increasing exhaust gas flow thru the intake manifold ports. The best cure is to remove and toss it.
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trjford8 |
07-01-2017 @ 7:02 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
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Is your gas tank nice and clean? If the tank is dirty it could be the pickup tube is obstructed and it's starving for fuel. Had this problem recently with my 54 Mercury.
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flathead4rd |
07-01-2017 @ 5:28 AM
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New Member
Posts: 169
Joined: Oct 2009
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I think your vacuum advance on the distributor may have a leaky diaphragm. Put some vacuum on it and see if it holds. Also check the wire under the points and condenser plate. Also check the condenser. The new ones are cr*p.
This message was edited by flathead4rd on 7-1-17 @ 5:30 AM
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supereal |
06-30-2017 @ 9:53 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Check your muffler and tail pipe for an obstruction. Tap the case of the muffler with a hammer. If you get a dull thud, the muffler is probably filed with carbon, etc. I have seen mufflers so full that they were very heavy. When they become obstructed, the first sign is a loss of power because the engine can't breathe. Years ago, a common prank was to use a potato jammed into the tailpipe to cause the same situation you report.
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supereal |
06-28-2017 @ 1:41 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The quickest way to diagnose your problem is with a vacuum gauge. If you have access to one, I can provide the chart. Be sure the vacuum is taken from above the venturi rather that from an outlet such as the wiper connection.
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fordv8j |
06-26-2017 @ 1:27 PM
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New Member
Posts: 176
Joined: Jan 2015
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I put a new napa round coil on my 38 coupe, it would idle fine, but the engine wouldn't rev up, I think it had a built in resister
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supereal |
06-26-2017 @ 9:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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The last time I fixed that problem, it turned to be that the nut on the battery side of the starter solenoid had come loose where the big cable connects. The car ran fine until you tried going up an incline, then power was lost. The poor contact reduced the power to the coil.
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dgmgohl |
06-26-2017 @ 8:09 AM
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Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Jun 2017
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Yes, I did remove the vacuum line before timing. I will check the wire for frayed touches. Thanks.
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