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Posted By Discussion Topic: floormat fitting -- page: 1 2     1937sedandelivery 06-24-2017 @ 9:31 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 501 Joined: Jul 2014 Hello, I ordered and will be receiving an "original" floormat for my 37 Fordor. The floor has what I call rolled metal edging along the sides where the runners are. The scuff plates wrap around these. Question: on the sides along the floor edges, should the floormat just rest up against the edges or should they be tucked in underneath the rolled metal? See attached pic. Thanks, Gregg FordFreak 06-24-2017 @ 10:59 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 116 Joined: Nov 2013 Mine wasn't wide enough to be tucked under the plate . It just barely made it to the plate , so there it lays ! It doesn't move around . It is in a coupe , might be a different mat than yours . 1937sedandelivery 06-24-2017 @ 11:34 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 501 Joined: Jul 2014 OK, thanks. It'll be what it's gonna be. I did notice there are two small holes on the tranny cover, one on each side of the hump. I recall reading somewhere that they are for some snaps that help hold the mat in place. gregg ford38v8 06-24-2017 @ 12:15 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2763 Joined: Oct 2009 Gregg, My '38's mat tucks nicely under the scuff plate. As I recall, the seat frame required a slit cut in the mat. As for the snaps, I believe you can get them from Roy Nacewicz Enterprises www.fordbolts.com Concourse correct fasteners . I didn't use them as mine is a driver, and the mat stays put without them. Alan 1937sedandelivery 06-24-2017 @ 9:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 501 Joined: Jul 2014 Thanks Alan. I expect I will need to cut slits in my mats also, unless Dennis Carpenter accounted for them, no biggie. I will be ordering the fasteners. I try to go with concourse correct parts whenever/wherever I can. I will let you all know how mine fits and take some pics. Next on my list is to replace all the wiring. Already have all the new harnesses. They are repros, but pretty decent, using color coded wires and sheathing very similar to OEM stuff. gregg ford38v8 06-24-2017 @ 11:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2763 Joined: Oct 2009 Gregg, I'd like to put a bug in your ear about the wiring: Before you start, be sure that all bullets are soldered rather than just crimped as some suppliers do. I was paranoid about ripping wiring out without a good plan on how it went back in, so I labeled everything coming out and where it came from, and I enlarged a wiring diagram to use under the car. Some guys solder the bullets into the connectors, but I used grease and made sure none were loose fitting. With 6 volts, it's extremely important to minimize resistance. Alan 1937sedandelivery 06-28-2017 @ 8:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 501 Joined: Jul 2014 Hey Alan, Just saw your reply. Very good feedback. This is my first true restoration so I can use all the help folks will give me. I have been working on the rear lights and found that the grounding path needs some attention. As you know, the ground path is accomplished by mechanical connections through the light fixture and then its connection (bolted) thru the fender, etc. back to the battery. I sandblasted all the pertinent parts and then started painting them. Halfway thru I realized the paint would compromise the electrical ground path, so went back and re-blasted some pieces. Attached is a pic of my right side rear lamp assembly (exploded view). P/N 78-16360 is a reinforcement plate but it conducts the ground return current so it must be clean metal. Likewise, the bolt and cup washer (78-706865) provide a return path. At least this all is how I think it works. When I got the car there was a separate black wire connecting the lamp housing to the frame. Pretty sure this is not stock, so I bagged that and cleaned things up. Anyway, I am paying close attention to ensuring there is a good clean return path from the lamp bulb socket to the battery ground terminal. Feel free to correct my understanding. 1937sedandelivery 06-28-2017 @ 9:08 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 501 Joined: Jul 2014 Hey Alan, In response to your reply, I certainly will go with your advice to solder the male connections. Will use female connectors to connect male ends together. Just ordered some cloth covered wire today so I can rebuild the lamp bulb socket wiring. I had ordered some replacements from Bob Drake and besides the fact that they use standard vinyl insulated wires (per today's technology), I discovered the bulb socket has offset pins so the original style bulbs will not work. Luck has it that I found some NOS bulbs and just got those in the mail today. Definitely will use and rebuild the original bulb socket assemblies. Now, regarding the floor mat fitment, I received and test fitted the front floor mat. It fits very nicely. It is fairly discolored and seems waxy to the touch. Maybe this is expected and intentional. The good news, for me, is that the mat fits easily underneath the side scuff panel edges, which provides a neat clean appearance. Pic attached. Overall, I recommend the mat. BTW, the backing is not jute and it is a separate piece, kinda like cloth matting. It should provide some thermal and acoustic improvements. Thanks, Gregg This message was edited by 1937sedandelivery on 6-28-17 @ 9:31 PM ford38v8 06-28-2017 @ 11:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2763 Joined: Oct 2009 Gregg, I'd advise the removal of your new mat to the driveway on a nice warm day, and with a soft bristle brush and Dawn Liquid Dish Soap/water, remove the waxy whitish mold release from the rubber. The result will be as nice as can be. You may decide to follow up with a diluted silicone treatment, to be well rubbed dry with a clean towel. Try this on the backside before you decide. Alan ford38v8 06-28-2017 @ 11:48 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2763 Joined: Oct 2009 Gregg, Your decision to rework the original lamp sockets shows your smarts about inferior repops. Keep up the good work! The added ground wire to frame that you found was good, done by many people, but should be hidden from scrutiny by Concourse Judges. Alan

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