| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-24-2017 @ 9:31 AM |
|
Hello, I ordered and will be receiving an "original" floormat for my 37 Fordor. The floor has what I call rolled metal edging along the sides where the runners are. The scuff plates wrap around these. Question: on the sides along the floor edges, should the floormat just rest up against the edges or should they be tucked in underneath the rolled metal? See attached pic. Thanks, Gregg
|
|
| FordFreak | -- 06-24-2017 @ 10:59 AM |
|
Mine wasn't wide enough to be tucked under the plate . It just barely made it to the plate , so there it lays ! It doesn't move around . It is in a coupe , might be a different mat than yours .
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-24-2017 @ 11:34 AM |
|
OK, thanks. It'll be what it's gonna be. I did notice there are two small holes on the tranny cover, one on each side of the hump. I recall reading somewhere that they are for some snaps that help hold the mat in place. gregg
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-24-2017 @ 12:15 PM |
|
Gregg, My '38's mat tucks nicely under the scuff plate. As I recall, the seat frame required a slit cut in the mat. As for the snaps, I believe you can get them from Roy Nacewicz Enterprises www.fordbolts.com Concourse correct fasteners . I didn't use them as mine is a driver, and the mat stays put without them. Alan
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-24-2017 @ 9:08 PM |
|
Thanks Alan. I expect I will need to cut slits in my mats also, unless Dennis Carpenter accounted for them, no biggie. I will be ordering the fasteners. I try to go with concourse correct parts whenever/wherever I can. I will let you all know how mine fits and take some pics. Next on my list is to replace all the wiring. Already have all the new harnesses. They are repros, but pretty decent, using color coded wires and sheathing very similar to OEM stuff. gregg
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-24-2017 @ 11:40 PM |
|
Gregg, I'd like to put a bug in your ear about the wiring: Before you start, be sure that all bullets are soldered rather than just crimped as some suppliers do. I was paranoid about ripping wiring out without a good plan on how it went back in, so I labeled everything coming out and where it came from, and I enlarged a wiring diagram to use under the car. Some guys solder the bullets into the connectors, but I used grease and made sure none were loose fitting. With 6 volts, it's extremely important to minimize resistance. Alan
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-28-2017 @ 8:54 PM |
|
Hey Alan, Just saw your reply. Very good feedback. This is my first true restoration so I can use all the help folks will give me. I have been working on the rear lights and found that the grounding path needs some attention. As you know, the ground path is accomplished by mechanical connections through the light fixture and then its connection (bolted) thru the fender, etc. back to the battery. I sandblasted all the pertinent parts and then started painting them. Halfway thru I realized the paint would compromise the electrical ground path, so went back and re-blasted some pieces. Attached is a pic of my right side rear lamp assembly (exploded view). P/N 78-16360 is a reinforcement plate but it conducts the ground return current so it must be clean metal. Likewise, the bolt and cup washer (78-706865) provide a return path. At least this all is how I think it works. When I got the car there was a separate black wire connecting the lamp housing to the frame. Pretty sure this is not stock, so I bagged that and cleaned things up. Anyway, I am paying close attention to ensuring there is a good clean return path from the lamp bulb socket to the battery ground terminal. Feel free to correct my understanding.
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-28-2017 @ 9:08 PM |
|
Hey Alan, In response to your reply, I certainly will go with your advice to solder the male connections. Will use female connectors to connect male ends together. Just ordered some cloth covered wire today so I can rebuild the lamp bulb socket wiring. I had ordered some replacements from Bob Drake and besides the fact that they use standard vinyl insulated wires (per today's technology), I discovered the bulb socket has offset pins so the original style bulbs will not work. Luck has it that I found some NOS bulbs and just got those in the mail today. Definitely will use and rebuild the original bulb socket assemblies. Now, regarding the floor mat fitment, I received and test fitted the front floor mat. It fits very nicely. It is fairly discolored and seems waxy to the touch. Maybe this is expected and intentional. The good news, for me, is that the mat fits easily underneath the side scuff panel edges, which provides a neat clean appearance. Pic attached. Overall, I recommend the mat. BTW, the backing is not jute and it is a separate piece, kinda like cloth matting. It should provide some thermal and acoustic improvements. Thanks, Gregg This message was edited by 1937sedandelivery on 6-28-17 @ 9:31 PM
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-28-2017 @ 11:43 PM |
|
Gregg, I'd advise the removal of your new mat to the driveway on a nice warm day, and with a soft bristle brush and Dawn Liquid Dish Soap/water, remove the waxy whitish mold release from the rubber. The result will be as nice as can be. You may decide to follow up with a diluted silicone treatment, to be well rubbed dry with a clean towel. Try this on the backside before you decide. Alan
|
|
| ford38v8 | -- 06-28-2017 @ 11:48 PM |
|
Gregg, Your decision to rework the original lamp sockets shows your smarts about inferior repops. Keep up the good work! The added ground wire to frame that you found was good, done by many people, but should be hidden from scrutiny by Concourse Judges. Alan
|
|
| FordFreak | -- 06-29-2017 @ 10:20 AM |
|
Gregg - looks like your mat fits better than mine ! I got mine from Mac's .....
|
|
| MG | -- 06-29-2017 @ 10:37 AM |
|
Gregg, Did the mat come with the hole precut for the shift tower? If not, you certainly did a nice/neat job in cutting it yourself. How difficult was this for you? The measurements can be tricky....
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-29-2017 @ 11:50 AM |
|
MG, All the holes were pre-cut, including the shifter one. Everything fits just right, no alterations at all. Just slipped it on and voila! As in Alan's case, there are no slits in the mat to account for the front seat front mount bolts. Those are easy enough to cut. Again, my mat is from Joe's Antiques who get them from Dennis Carpenter. gregg This message was edited by 1937sedandelivery on 6-29-17 @ 4:29 PM
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-29-2017 @ 2:11 PM |
|
Alan, Will tackle the floor mat today to see how it "cleans up". Lots of warm days here in Tucson. Thanks, Gregg
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 06-30-2017 @ 9:05 AM |
|
Well, I am more than surprised. The moment I put water to the mat it started turning brown! Maybe it was the sun, maybe the dish soap, maybe the heat??? I have no earthly explanation for this. It is starkly brown, in fact, it is very close to "rustic brown". So much for Benton Gray. Anyway, I laid down the cloth matting (after trimming) and the mat fits like a glove. I do recall reading somewhere that the original Benton Gray mats sometimes were brownish in color??? Thought I would share. gregg
|
|
| TomO | -- 07-03-2017 @ 10:53 AM |
|
Gregg, I would paint the areas that you sandblasted to improve grounding. The tin worms love bare metal and those bare spots give them a chance to get under the paint on the rest of the fender. The bolts should give you a good ground connection. To check if you need an extra ground wire, turn on the parking lights and connect the red or + lead of your voltmeter to the battery post and then touch the com or black lead to the bulb housing in the taillight. Your meter should read 0.1 volts or less. If you get a higher reading, you can move the COM lead closer to the battery to see where the resistance is. You can do the same test with all of the other lights. Tom
|
|
| 1937sedandelivery | -- 07-09-2017 @ 12:55 AM |
|
Tom, Sorry for late response, was at the Spokane Expo swap meet (what a bust, no 37 parts at all). Regarding the blasted parts, I did go back and paint them and scr*ped off some key areas where I thought connectivity would matter. I have yet to do the voltmeter measurements, but will get to that in the next couple days. Thanks for keeping up with me! gregg
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=10895 |