Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Shock Absorber Link Removal?

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: Shock Absorber Link Removal?

JayChicago

05-08-2017 @ 12:22 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016

1940. Need to remove a bad lever-action shock absorber link. The link's pin seems to be very tight in the shock arm. I don't want to pry too much, don't want to damage the shock. This is not a press fit, is it? It should come out, right? Any tips/ideas are appreciated.

TomO

05-09-2017 @ 6:33 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7252
Joined: Oct 2009

Jay, the studs have a taper that seats in the link arm. Use a wedge tool like a pitman arm removal tool to remove the link.

Tom

JayChicago

05-09-2017 @ 2:49 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016

Thanks Tom. I'll try that.

40cpe

05-10-2017 @ 5:17 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 472
Joined: Jan 2010

I've held a heavy hammer firmly against one side of the eye and rapped the other side with another hammer. This usually deforms the eye temporarily to dislodge the stud. A couple of raps should be enough to put a nut on the threads of the stud and tap it out.

len47merc

05-10-2017 @ 5:28 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013

See below. Something similar is what I used to removed the originals from my '47. Very easy to use, and to my minds eye less harsh on all the components than a pitman arm removal (fork) tool (absolutely no disrespect here Tom! - just my opinion). The 'crack' of the release was a bit startling. Removed the Marsden nut, then put the tapered/threaded end under fairly significant pressure and then struck the end of the shock arm with a small finishing hammer and they all popped free with the first few taps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZBL8MO/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_b13ucL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=HCSFXWN23X0YXQADCFQC&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7831c7ec-538f-573a-95a0-f6e7b2f0f666&pf_rd_i=15708961

When I reference 'taps' I do mean 'taps' - no hard pounding required.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 5-10-17 @ 6:11 PM

JayChicago

05-11-2017 @ 12:17 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016

Thanks for the ideas. I think removing from the link from the shock absorber arm should be doable with a small puller. (actually, I guess it's a pusher in this application)

A bigger problem, I now see, is the link's other stud. It's attached to the axle housing, just hiding behind the brake backer plate where I won't be able to get a pusher tool on it. I've beat on the stud with a hammer as much as I can with it hiding behind the backer plate....it ain't budging! And I'm thinking a fork tool won't do it either. Any thoughts on this will be appreciated.

05-13-2017 @ 4:18 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 822
Joined: Oct 2009

Not sure this will work on a '40, but this is the way I usually remove those same ball studs on a '35/'36 Ford......

Remove the tire and wheel, back the ball stud nut off a couple turns, using about a 12" length of brass or aluminum bar stock ~ 1" in diameter, place one end of the bar stock against the ball stud nut and strike the other end with a large hammer. This will usually break the tapered fit and allow the ball stud to be removed after taking the nut off. If the backing plate and drum are still in place while doing this, the bar stock must be placed against the ball stud nut on an angle, but the above procedure will still work.

John

JayChicago

05-14-2017 @ 3:18 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 480
Joined: Jan 2016

Thanks, John. That sounds like it should work. I'll try that. Its a little scary to me to be beating my car with with a hammer, but that's probably what this job requires.

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions