| JayChicago | -- 05-08-2017 @ 12:22 PM |
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1940. Need to remove a bad lever-action shock absorber link. The link's pin seems to be very tight in the shock arm. I don't want to pry too much, don't want to damage the shock. This is not a press fit, is it? It should come out, right? Any tips/ideas are appreciated.
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| TomO | -- 05-09-2017 @ 6:33 AM |
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Jay, the studs have a taper that seats in the link arm. Use a wedge tool like a pitman arm removal tool to remove the link. Tom
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| JayChicago | -- 05-09-2017 @ 2:49 PM |
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Thanks Tom. I'll try that.
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| 40cpe | -- 05-10-2017 @ 5:17 PM |
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I've held a heavy hammer firmly against one side of the eye and rapped the other side with another hammer. This usually deforms the eye temporarily to dislodge the stud. A couple of raps should be enough to put a nut on the threads of the stud and tap it out.
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| len47merc | -- 05-10-2017 @ 5:28 PM |
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See below. Something similar is what I used to removed the originals from my '47. Very easy to use, and to my minds eye less harsh on all the components than a pitman arm removal (fork) tool (absolutely no disrespect here Tom! - just my opinion). The 'crack' of the release was a bit startling. Removed the Marsden nut, then put the tapered/threaded end under fairly significant pressure and then struck the end of the shock arm with a small finishing hammer and they all popped free with the first few taps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZBL8MO/ref=s9_acsd_newrz_hd_bw_b13ucL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-4&pf_rd_r=HCSFXWN23X0YXQADCFQC&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=7831c7ec-538f-573a-95a0-f6e7b2f0f666&pf_rd_i=15708961 When I reference 'taps' I do mean 'taps' - no hard pounding required. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 5-10-17 @ 6:11 PM
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| JayChicago | -- 05-11-2017 @ 12:17 PM |
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Thanks for the ideas. I think removing from the link from the shock absorber arm should be doable with a small puller. (actually, I guess it's a pusher in this application) A bigger problem, I now see, is the link's other stud. It's attached to the axle housing, just hiding behind the brake backer plate where I won't be able to get a pusher tool on it. I've beat on the stud with a hammer as much as I can with it hiding behind the backer plate....it ain't budging! And I'm thinking a fork tool won't do it either. Any thoughts on this will be appreciated.
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| JM | -- 05-13-2017 @ 4:18 AM |
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Not sure this will work on a '40, but this is the way I usually remove those same ball studs on a '35/'36 Ford...... Remove the tire and wheel, back the ball stud nut off a couple turns, using about a 12" length of brass or aluminum bar stock ~ 1" in diameter, place one end of the bar stock against the ball stud nut and strike the other end with a large hammer. This will usually break the tapered fit and allow the ball stud to be removed after taking the nut off. If the backing plate and drum are still in place while doing this, the bar stock must be placed against the ball stud nut on an angle, but the above procedure will still work. John
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| JayChicago | -- 05-14-2017 @ 3:18 PM |
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Thanks, John. That sounds like it should work. I'll try that. Its a little scary to me to be beating my car with with a hammer, but that's probably what this job requires.
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