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Discussion Topic:
Pedal Bumpers Install?
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JayChicago |
05-08-2017 @ 12:01 PM
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Member
Posts: 486
Joined: Jan 2016
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1940. I need to install the under-the-floor-board rubber bumper stops on the brake and clutch pedal arms. I assume the easiest way to do this is to remove the floor board?
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nelsb01 |
05-08-2017 @ 2:42 PM
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Senior
Posts: 984
Joined: Oct 2009
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Probably, but you may be able to do it without removal. To assist with the actual install, use dish soap liquid to help the rubber tabs slide into the holes.
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Old Henry |
05-10-2017 @ 7:44 PM
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Senior
Posts: 738
Joined: Apr 2010
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Yes. Remove the floor. Way easier that way.
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kubes40 |
05-11-2017 @ 6:34 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3407
Joined: Oct 2009
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You MUST remove the floor board on a '40 to install the bumpers. Mike "Kube" Kubarth
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JayChicago |
05-11-2017 @ 11:25 AM
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Member
Posts: 486
Joined: Jan 2016
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Thanks, guys. On the '40, the sponge rubber bumpers are 2 or 3 inches in diameter, too big to push through the floor board holes.
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TomO |
05-12-2017 @ 6:27 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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Jay, some of the reproduction bumpers are large enough to catch on the frame,when the pedal is pushed all the way down. Check this out before you replace the floor boards, so you can trim the bumper. If it catches on the frame, it will not allow the pedal to return all of the way. You may also have to modify your floor boards to allow the bumper to fit into the recess in order to allow the pedal to return to its design height. Don't forget to put lockwashers on the pedal pads when you reinstall them.
Tom
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oldford2 |
05-13-2017 @ 9:01 AM
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Posts: 275
Joined: Oct 2009
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Is it possible to sliced one side of the donut, go underneath, depress the pedal, wrap the donut around the shaft and "reglue" the joint with permatex black adhesive. Just thinking
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TomO |
05-13-2017 @ 7:52 PM
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Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
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That seems like a lot of work compared to removing less than a dozen screws. I don't think that the glue would hold for more tha a few months.
Tom
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len47merc |
05-14-2017 @ 4:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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To nelsb01's, oldford2's and TomO's points - in my desire to preserve and minimize further cracking damage to the original but more than fragile floor mat in my '47, instead of removing the floorboard I necessarily soaped one of the pads that had the most clearance around the pedal stem/shaft and the hole in the floorboard and without too much time and effort easily, bit by bit, compressed it from the sides and stuffed/slid it through and into place without damaging it at all from the interior outward (cannot recall which one now but the clearance made it obvious at the time). The other was a no-go without damaging it so I cut a vertical slit in the center-bottom along the mold's parting line in the rubber and, from the bottom of the car, pulled the pedal down and slid it into place. Then using a vulcanizing rubber cement used for innertube patches I glued it and then using a piece of fine black nylon string carefully positioned and wrapped the perimeter and tied it securely without deforming it to hold it in place through the curing process. It has held that way for now 3 1/2 years plus and still looks factory from under the car. Qualify as well though I have no experience trying this on a '40 (defer to kubes40) and add further that were it not for the floor mat issue I'd have simply removed the floorboard as TomO notes. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 5-14-17 @ 4:54 AM
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kubes40 |
05-14-2017 @ 6:03 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3407
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, the floor in a '40 is nothing like that of your car. Kinda apples vs. oranges
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