Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Electronic Ignition

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: Electronic Ignition -- page: 1 2     JohnA 01-23-2017 @ 4:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 281 Joined: Dec 2009 Thank -you,Thats why we have a forum.JohnA Drbrown 01-22-2017 @ 9:40 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 571 Joined: Nov 2013 JohnA .... At the top right corner of the forum page, in the "search" box, type "Charlie NY" click and it will show a list of his postings. Click on his name in one of his postings and send him a PM (Personal Message) about your needs. Charlie is a reputable carb, fuel pump and distributor builder and well known to most members of most Ford forums. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-22-17 @ 9:42 PM JohnA 01-22-2017 @ 10:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 281 Joined: Dec 2009 Wow,does anyone have anything good to say about electronic ignition,Just happens I sent my distributor to have electronics installed,go figure.Who"s Charlie in NY. fenbach 01-20-2017 @ 7:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 227 Joined: Dec 2009 jim, here's a compromise. get a TIP 35C NPN transistor and put it between the points and the coil. something I did on my '36. at the least, it eliminates nearly all the static from the radio. in this configuration, the transistor is a switch activated by the points. but it draws a microscopic amount of current thru the points. with so little current, they no longer arc, and the condenser is unnecessary. and the points will last forever. if you're like me, you'll enjoy experimenting. the transistors are available on ebay if not locally for a buck or so. i'd first try making the connections using test leads with alligator clips. here's how. 1. disconnect the wire from the distributor [points] to the coil. 2. connect the wire to the left-hand post of the transistor, called the base. 3. run a wire from the coil to the right hand post of the transistor, called the collector. 4. bolt the transistor to ground or connect the center post [called the emitter] to ground. 5. disconnect the condenser. imperative. 6. start the engine. lastly, if you ever have trouble [or my instructions prove to be bogus], you can revert to original in 2 minutes. one other thing to do is a before and after comparison of the spark at the plugs with a screwdriver. one with an insulated handle! here's the web site where I got my "plans." it has a picture of a similar setup but with negative ground and uses a PNP transistor. http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14050/css/Transistor-Ignition-System-96.htm This message was edited by fenbach on 1-21-17 @ 7:20 PM supereal 01-20-2017 @ 1:57 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 We have seen problems with electronic ignition conversions. Most stem from the primitive electrical systems that are very poorly regulated. Many are heat sensitive, as well, I concur with my friends in the above responses. If set up on a machine by someone who really knows how how to do it, and quality parts are used, it is rare to have problems with the stock distributor. I do carry a spare condenser in my "road kit" that is on clip leads. It has become difficult to find decent points and condensers. We generally find the old condenser is a better choice when servicing the ignition system. I have learned not to trust foreign parts. len47merc 01-20-2017 @ 6:07 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1165 Joined: Oct 2013 Btw Jim - I also have a 59AB and will add one more comment to 4dFordSC's last post. Even long-distance towing provided by our classic car insurances &/or AAA does not provide the driving/on-the-road/tour comfort and confidence felt from knowing points'll get you home, original ignitions are much easier to troubleshoot on the road (particularly with the knowledge gleaned from this Forum) and original ignition parts are readily available/easily substitute-able (if necessary) while on the road. Personally I try to avoid anything that may produce that gnawing-at-the-base-of-the-neck, sitting on pins 'n needles feeling of 'oh God what might go wrong any minute now...'. For me anyway, being able to spontaneously throw a bag in the '47's trunk and leave for a multi-hundred mile one-way trip without mechanical or electrical, 'what's that sound' or 'was that a miss' or 'am I losing power' anxiety is priceless. Electronic ignitions do not come close to providing anywhere near that level of confidence and comfort - at least for me. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 1-20-17 @ 6:50 AM 4dFordSC 01-19-2017 @ 7:42 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 266 Joined: Oct 2009 Points will get you home. Drbrown 01-19-2017 @ 7:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 571 Joined: Nov 2013 X4 re TomO ! ! Had a Pentronix in my '47 59AB crab dizzy from before I bought it. Drove it occasionally for 4 years then it totally quit. Had a spare from Bubba in my trunk and it quit after about a half hour. I then had both rebuilt and they both quit. Spent endless hours searching for cause, checking wiring, testing and even replacing electrical system components, and much money on replacement Pentronix units. Even with a Bubba's proper coil they would run for a very short time and die. I gave up and had Charlie NY build me a stock crab (dual points) with a Bosch Blue coil. My Tach stopped its double reading and bouncing indicator and the engine has started and run fine since. I'll still carry a spare and I finally got my confidence in my flathead back. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-19-17 @ 7:33 PM 40topless 01-19-2017 @ 3:03 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 38 Joined: Jun 2015 I have had nothing but troubles with electronic. 2 electronic set ups later I gave up. My dad come with a wooden box of old distrubitors. Put an old junker on and it ran perfect. I went down and bought a rebuilt then installed plug wires with wire in them. My car runs the best it has ever ran. Stay away from electronic!! len47merc 01-18-2017 @ 2:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1165 Joined: Oct 2013 x3 on TomO's post. Personally drove my distributor to then 88 year-old John Shelor in northern VA and got a 5 hour education on the correct way to rebuild and set-up the distributor on an Allen machine on my 59AB with quality points, components, etc.. I'd set it up myself twice earlier (feeler gauges) with components from the normal sources and thought it could get no better. Drove home, put it on the '47 and absolutely could not believe how well it ran. Haven't touched it in 8K miles - plug 'n play. Was getting 15-15.5 mpg MAX with my set-up on highway before with 3.78 rear gear. The best tank on the drive to Gettysburg last year after install of the 'new' original-style dual-point unit was just north of 18. 18! Did I say 18?! Purchased another distributor at a swap meet and sent it to John for full rework and keep in in the trunk now for back-up. Doubt I'll ever need it but it's there. nelsb01's, cliftford's and TomO's comments are all rock-solid reasons to stay old-school on these cars IMHO. Steve

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1