| Jim | -- 01-17-2017 @ 6:54 PM |
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I have a 59 AB engine and am considering electronic ignition. What are the pros and cons of electronic ignition... is it better than the stock set up? Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated. Who supplies a quality E-ignition set up? Thanks for your help and advice! Jim
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| TomO | -- 01-18-2017 @ 9:17 AM |
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Here is my opinion: Electronic ignitions on old seldom driven cars are just a way to flatten your wallet. They are more likely to fail than points and do not have any redeeming features. The dual point system use in the Ford V-8 engine is designed to give full coil saturation with minimal trouble and long point life. A set of point will last at least 15,000 miles on the dual point distributors and may be serviceable up to 20,000 miles. The average hobbyist drives his antique car less than 5,000 miles a year and if the points wear out, the car will still be able to make it back home. If the electronic module fails, you better have some sort of backup or it is time to call for the flatbed to carry you home. They do a great job on modern cars that are designed for the electronic ignition and electronic fuel injection. On old cars with generators and leaky insulation on the plug wires, the electronic ignitions appear to be very troublesome to some people. Tom
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| cliftford | -- 01-18-2017 @ 10:55 AM |
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X2 on TomO's post. On 59 A and earlier engines, there is no improvement over the stock ignition system if it is properly set up. Save your money.
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| nelsb01 | -- 01-18-2017 @ 2:08 PM |
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I listened to all those that are using electronic (Pentrax) and when I realized that I had not replaced my spark plugs or points and condenser for over 18000 miles (recommendation is 10000 according to owner's manual), I got on the internet and ordered electronic. Instructions were good, and it went in easy. Tested it around the city and it started and ran fine. Half way to the 2014 Central National Meet driving on the two lane, it started losing power, and intermittently quitting. Pulled over and checked -- every thing seemed fine. Stopped for lunch and it wouldn't start. Walked a mile to the U-haul dealer and rented truck and trailer to get it home. Luckily it ran enough to get it on the trailer. Once back home from the Meet in the modern car, packaged it up and mailed it back. They found that it over heated and sent me a new one. A new set of points and condenser have been keeping me going since for an additional 4000 miles. Moral: Don't fix what isn't broke or none of these vehicles would be around now, if the ignition system was junk. And according to TomO, I changed my points and condenser too soon--- I still had about 6000 miles to go. Oh, I do have a new electronic set for sale. (for later flatheads 1949 - 1953) It's on the shelf someplace.
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| len47merc | -- 01-18-2017 @ 2:32 PM |
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x3 on TomO's post. Personally drove my distributor to then 88 year-old John Shelor in northern VA and got a 5 hour education on the correct way to rebuild and set-up the distributor on an Allen machine on my 59AB with quality points, components, etc.. I'd set it up myself twice earlier (feeler gauges) with components from the normal sources and thought it could get no better. Drove home, put it on the '47 and absolutely could not believe how well it ran. Haven't touched it in 8K miles - plug 'n play. Was getting 15-15.5 mpg MAX with my set-up on highway before with 3.78 rear gear. The best tank on the drive to Gettysburg last year after install of the 'new' original-style dual-point unit was just north of 18. 18! Did I say 18?! Purchased another distributor at a swap meet and sent it to John for full rework and keep in in the trunk now for back-up. Doubt I'll ever need it but it's there. nelsb01's, cliftford's and TomO's comments are all rock-solid reasons to stay old-school on these cars IMHO. Steve
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| 40topless | -- 01-19-2017 @ 3:03 PM |
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I have had nothing but troubles with electronic. 2 electronic set ups later I gave up. My dad come with a wooden box of old distrubitors. Put an old junker on and it ran perfect. I went down and bought a rebuilt then installed plug wires with wire in them. My car runs the best it has ever ran. Stay away from electronic!!
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| Drbrown | -- 01-19-2017 @ 7:32 PM |
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X4 re TomO ! ! Had a Pentronix in my '47 59AB crab dizzy from before I bought it. Drove it occasionally for 4 years then it totally quit. Had a spare from Bubba in my trunk and it quit after about a half hour. I then had both rebuilt and they both quit. Spent endless hours searching for cause, checking wiring, testing and even replacing electrical system components, and much money on replacement Pentronix units. Even with a Bubba's proper coil they would run for a very short time and die. I gave up and had Charlie NY build me a stock crab (dual points) with a Bosch Blue coil. My Tach stopped its double reading and bouncing indicator and the engine has started and run fine since. I'll still carry a spare and I finally got my confidence in my flathead back. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-19-17 @ 7:33 PM
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| 4dFordSC | -- 01-19-2017 @ 7:42 PM |
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Points will get you home.
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| len47merc | -- 01-20-2017 @ 6:07 AM |
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Btw Jim - I also have a 59AB and will add one more comment to 4dFordSC's last post. Even long-distance towing provided by our classic car insurances &/or AAA does not provide the driving/on-the-road/tour comfort and confidence felt from knowing points'll get you home, original ignitions are much easier to troubleshoot on the road (particularly with the knowledge gleaned from this Forum) and original ignition parts are readily available/easily substitute-able (if necessary) while on the road. Personally I try to avoid anything that may produce that gnawing-at-the-base-of-the-neck, sitting on pins 'n needles feeling of 'oh God what might go wrong any minute now...'. For me anyway, being able to spontaneously throw a bag in the '47's trunk and leave for a multi-hundred mile one-way trip without mechanical or electrical, 'what's that sound' or 'was that a miss' or 'am I losing power' anxiety is priceless. Electronic ignitions do not come close to providing anywhere near that level of confidence and comfort - at least for me. Steve This message was edited by len47merc on 1-20-17 @ 6:50 AM
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| supereal | -- 01-20-2017 @ 1:57 PM |
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We have seen problems with electronic ignition conversions. Most stem from the primitive electrical systems that are very poorly regulated. Many are heat sensitive, as well, I concur with my friends in the above responses. If set up on a machine by someone who really knows how how to do it, and quality parts are used, it is rare to have problems with the stock distributor. I do carry a spare condenser in my "road kit" that is on clip leads. It has become difficult to find decent points and condensers. We generally find the old condenser is a better choice when servicing the ignition system. I have learned not to trust foreign parts.
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| fenbach | -- 01-20-2017 @ 7:42 PM |
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jim, here's a compromise. get a TIP 35C NPN transistor and put it between the points and the coil. something I did on my '36. at the least, it eliminates nearly all the static from the radio. in this configuration, the transistor is a switch activated by the points. but it draws a microscopic amount of current thru the points. with so little current, they no longer arc, and the condenser is unnecessary. and the points will last forever. if you're like me, you'll enjoy experimenting. the transistors are available on ebay if not locally for a buck or so. i'd first try making the connections using test leads with alligator clips. here's how. 1. disconnect the wire from the distributor [points] to the coil. 2. connect the wire to the left-hand post of the transistor, called the base. 3. run a wire from the coil to the right hand post of the transistor, called the collector. 4. bolt the transistor to ground or connect the center post [called the emitter] to ground. 5. disconnect the condenser. imperative. 6. start the engine. lastly, if you ever have trouble [or my instructions prove to be bogus], you can revert to original in 2 minutes. one other thing to do is a before and after comparison of the spark at the plugs with a screwdriver. one with an insulated handle! here's the web site where I got my "plans." it has a picture of a similar setup but with negative ground and uses a PNP transistor. http://constructionmanuals.tpub.com/14050/css/Transistor-Ignition-System-96.htm This message was edited by fenbach on 1-21-17 @ 7:20 PM
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| JohnA | -- 01-22-2017 @ 10:38 AM |
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Wow,does anyone have anything good to say about electronic ignition,Just happens I sent my distributor to have electronics installed,go figure.Who"s Charlie in NY.
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| Drbrown | -- 01-22-2017 @ 9:40 PM |
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JohnA .... At the top right corner of the forum page, in the "search" box, type "Charlie NY" click and it will show a list of his postings. Click on his name in one of his postings and send him a PM (Personal Message) about your needs. Charlie is a reputable carb, fuel pump and distributor builder and well known to most members of most Ford forums. This message was edited by Drbrown on 1-22-17 @ 9:42 PM
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| JohnA | -- 01-23-2017 @ 4:30 PM |
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Thank -you,Thats why we have a forum.JohnA
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