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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '50 Ford won't start

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Discussion Topic: '50 Ford won't start -- page: 1 2

Flatbrain

05-16-2010 @ 5:50 PM

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This is an aftermarket solenoid (with start button on top) but I connected it just as the original was connected. The battery cable is connected to the terminal closest to the battery (front). I don't think these wires had ever been off before so they are stiff in the original positions.

TomO

05-16-2010 @ 5:39 PM

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Is your solenoid connected properly. You should have the cable from the battery going to the drivers side of the solenoid. You should have 6 volts at the center terminal of the solenoid with the starter button in the normal state.

Tom

Flatbrain

05-16-2010 @ 5:16 PM

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deluxe40 -
Thanks for the information and the compliments on the painting.
Still no spark but now have a little time for more trouble shooting.
Regarding the art of the 50 Ford, I am working on art of another 50 Ford that I drove in the 50's, a 55 Nomad, a 52 Buick, and a 55 Chevy sedan delivery. Watch for these in an upcoming issue of Hemmings Classic Car magazine and on my site -
www.ThomasEvansArt.com.
Thanks again,
Tom

Flatbrain

05-16-2010 @ 5:11 PM

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supereal -
Thanks, finally getting back to this car after a two month project for a client. I'm still not getting any spark at all after reconnecting the new condenser and a new wire from the distributor to coil but will run the tests you suggested. It's going to start sooner or later, hopefully sooner.
Tom

TomO

04-21-2010 @ 8:19 AM

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Fordmerc,

What year engine are you working on? 32-48 or 49-53?

Do you get spark at the plugs?

The ignition resistor will get very hot quickly, if the points are not opening.

Tom

supereal

04-20-2010 @ 9:08 AM

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The ignition resistor gets very hot in normal use. That is why there is a guard over it. The thing is a sort of voltage regulator wound with nichrome wire, the same type as in a toaster. Place a voltmeter between the coil input terminal and ground, and with the ignition on, turn the engine until the points close. You should see about 3.5 volts if you have a 6 volt car. If more, either the resistor is faulty, the coil is shorted internally, or the condenser is shorted. When the points are opened, you should read full battery voltage.

fordmerc

04-20-2010 @ 8:54 AM

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same problem AND the resistor gets hot
I think I followed all replies except replacing a "new repro" coil. ?any addition a steps to suggest?

37RAGTOPMAN

04-04-2010 @ 1:52 PM

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hi 50FORD
I have a question. does your condensor LOOK like this NOS AMERICAN MADE ONE ?
was trying to find out what this fits,
I assumed it is for a 1949 and up FORD V8,
if you know please post it, thanks.
37RAGTOPMAN

This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-4-10 @ 1:53 PM

deluxe40

04-02-2010 @ 7:44 PM

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Tom, That's a terrific painting. I have to admit I took a quick look before just to be sure we were talking about a '50 ('51 starter switches are different) and it fooled me. I thought it was a photograph. Now I can see that it has much more character than a photo could have. It will be good to make it run again.

Flatbrain

04-02-2010 @ 1:12 PM

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Removed the distributor cap and the condensor wire was completely separated and rolling around in there. I probably didn't install properly and the rotor pulled it off when it turned (my guess). So back to the parts house for a new condensor.
Thanks for your help.
Tom
ps - check out the jpeg I posted in the original message of a painting I did of this car. It is nearly life size.

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