| Flatbrain | -- 04-02-2010 @ 8:42 AM |
|
This car has not been started in about 15 years. It has 94,000 original miles and used to run great. I acquired it from my Dad a couple of years ago. I recently put in a new battery, battery cables, spark plug wires, plugs, points, rotor, condenser, cap, coil, and solenoid. The starter button on the dash doesn't work so for now I am using the (non-original) button on the new solenoid to crank it. The engine turns over just fine but I'm not getting any spark from the new coil or plugs. Where should I look next? Thanks Tom
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-02-2010 @ 10:43 AM |
|
Put a voltmeter between the coil input and ground, turn on the ignition switch, and see if you have power to the coil. If so, disconnect the wire from the coil that runs to the distributor and connect an ohmeter. Put the meter on the X1 scale and turn the engine over. You should see the needle swing as the points open and close. If not, it is likely you have a bad point set, which is common these days. If the dash button doesn't operate the starter solenoid, either the ground at the button is bad, the solenoid is defective, or the large cables to the solenoid are reversed.
|
|
| deluxe40 | -- 04-02-2010 @ 10:49 AM |
|
The last time I had this problem it was because one of the small wires inside the distributor had become loose when I changed the points. To diagnose it I would pop the cap and put a matchbook cover in the points to keep them from closing. Then turn on the key and check to see if you have voltage at the coil side of the points, the distributor primary wire and the coil. If not, causes could be bad new points (common), bad condenser, broken or grounded wire in the distributor, bad coil, bad ignition switch, etc. Or, best of all, you just forgot to hook up a wire when you changed one of the parts. As I recall, the stock starter button on a '50 just grounds the small terminal on the solenoid, so it might be dirty and easy to fix.
|
|
| Flatbrain | -- 04-02-2010 @ 1:12 PM |
|
Removed the distributor cap and the condensor wire was completely separated and rolling around in there. I probably didn't install properly and the rotor pulled it off when it turned (my guess). So back to the parts house for a new condensor. Thanks for your help. Tom ps - check out the jpeg I posted in the original message of a painting I did of this car. It is nearly life size.
|
|
| deluxe40 | -- 04-02-2010 @ 7:44 PM |
|
Tom, That's a terrific painting. I have to admit I took a quick look before just to be sure we were talking about a '50 ('51 starter switches are different) and it fooled me. I thought it was a photograph. Now I can see that it has much more character than a photo could have. It will be good to make it run again.
|
|
| 37RAGTOPMAN | -- 04-04-2010 @ 1:52 PM |
|
hi 50FORD I have a question. does your condensor LOOK like this NOS AMERICAN MADE ONE ? was trying to find out what this fits, I assumed it is for a 1949 and up FORD V8, if you know please post it, thanks. 37RAGTOPMAN This message was edited by 37RAGTOPMAN on 4-4-10 @ 1:53 PM
|
|
| fordmerc | -- 04-20-2010 @ 8:54 AM |
|
same problem AND the resistor gets hot I think I followed all replies except replacing a "new repro" coil. ?any addition a steps to suggest?
|
|
| supereal | -- 04-20-2010 @ 9:08 AM |
|
The ignition resistor gets very hot in normal use. That is why there is a guard over it. The thing is a sort of voltage regulator wound with nichrome wire, the same type as in a toaster. Place a voltmeter between the coil input terminal and ground, and with the ignition on, turn the engine until the points close. You should see about 3.5 volts if you have a 6 volt car. If more, either the resistor is faulty, the coil is shorted internally, or the condenser is shorted. When the points are opened, you should read full battery voltage.
|
|
| TomO | -- 04-21-2010 @ 8:19 AM |
|
Fordmerc, What year engine are you working on? 32-48 or 49-53? Do you get spark at the plugs? The ignition resistor will get very hot quickly, if the points are not opening. Tom
|
|
| Flatbrain | -- 05-16-2010 @ 5:11 PM |
|
supereal - Thanks, finally getting back to this car after a two month project for a client. I'm still not getting any spark at all after reconnecting the new condenser and a new wire from the distributor to coil but will run the tests you suggested. It's going to start sooner or later, hopefully sooner. Tom
|
|
| Flatbrain | -- 05-16-2010 @ 5:16 PM |
|
deluxe40 - Thanks for the information and the compliments on the painting. Still no spark but now have a little time for more trouble shooting. Regarding the art of the 50 Ford, I am working on art of another 50 Ford that I drove in the 50's, a 55 Nomad, a 52 Buick, and a 55 Chevy sedan delivery. Watch for these in an upcoming issue of Hemmings Classic Car magazine and on my site - www.ThomasEvansArt.com. Thanks again, Tom
|
|
| TomO | -- 05-16-2010 @ 5:39 PM |
|
Is your solenoid connected properly. You should have the cable from the battery going to the drivers side of the solenoid. You should have 6 volts at the center terminal of the solenoid with the starter button in the normal state. Tom
|
|
| Flatbrain | -- 05-16-2010 @ 5:50 PM |
|
This is an aftermarket solenoid (with start button on top) but I connected it just as the original was connected. The battery cable is connected to the terminal closest to the battery (front). I don't think these wires had ever been off before so they are stiff in the original positions.
|
|
| EFV-8 Club Forum : | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum |
| Topic: | https://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=1026 |