Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / frozen exhaust manifold nuts

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion << previous || next >>

Posted By Discussion Topic: frozen exhaust manifold nuts -- page: 1 2     MICHV8 10-02-2016 @ 5:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 428 Joined: Jul 2010 Wanted to let everyone know that the Sears "nut cracker" works great and is small enough to get into some tight spaces... I'm still working on the driver side manifold which has very limited space GK1918 09-28-2016 @ 2:26 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 127 Joined: Aug 2016 This is all too common here in our shop. First off all snake oils are a waste of time. It doesn't matter new or old. The new vehicles using heat is usually not advised too much plastic. Nut splitters do work but they need more space. What we do is with a die grinder & cut off wheel cut down one side of the nut almost to the threads to weaken it and with one tap it will fall off then chase threads with a die. Want a challange? try removing late manifolds with aluminum heads !! shogun1940 09-26-2016 @ 12:10 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 464 Joined: Feb 2010 The pros now have an induction heater that you wrap around a nut and plug it into 110v.. Heat the nut and let it cool three or four times then heat the nut from cold and do not turn it until the stud is gray or it will twist off. The nut splitter should also work and the chisel will work if it is sharp and small. Patience is the answer fordv8j 09-20-2016 @ 12:25 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 176 Joined: Jan 2015 To much hammering on the nuts may break the manifold carcrazy 09-20-2016 @ 9:38 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1653 Joined: Oct 2009 You can use a long cold chisel to split the frozen nut parallel to it's axis while being careful not to damage the stud. cliftford 09-20-2016 @ 6:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 845 Joined: Jan 2014 The "add on" you refer to is the heat riser valve. If you eliminate it you might find that the crossover pipe,if your engine has one, won't fit right. So try to keep the studs full length if you can. If you are changing to dual pipes this will not be a problem. Some people myself included, feel that this valve does little good anyway and eliminate it, or cut the center out of it and put it back on to get correct spacing. This message was edited by cliftford on 9-20-16 @ 6:17 AM MICHV8 09-20-2016 @ 5:12 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 428 Joined: Jul 2010 fenders (inner as well),radiator,grille,bumper,etc. are off so I have a fair amount of approach space. The passenger side (59AB) gives me some nut visibility and I ordered the Sears nut cracking tool which gets good reviews. The driver side has very limited access, but does have an extra manifold flange add-on which looks to be part of a heater unit air control. Because of the add-on, the studs are longer which might allow me to simply grind off the nuts and discard the add-on leaving enough stud thread to bolt on the exhaust pipe flange. Thanks to all for the support. Lots of swearing seems to help... cliftford 09-19-2016 @ 8:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 845 Joined: Jan 2014 Woodiewagon, I assume you mean 6 point sockets. My advice if you use a torch: do it outside if possible and keep a fire extingiusher handy at all times. woodiewagon46 09-19-2016 @ 11:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 698 Joined: Nov 2012 I would also use an 8 point socket so not to round over the nuts. Brass nuts are the way to go or stainless steel if you don't show your car. Also reassemble with anti-seeze. TomO 09-19-2016 @ 8:56 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 Cliiford is correct about getting a nut splitter to work on the exhaust pipe. Using a socket and a breaker bar will probably break the stud. The best way to remove them is to use an impact gun and socket. Heat the nut until it is glowing red, install the impact socket and go to it. The hammering operation of the impact gun will break the rust loose. You may have to move the nut back and forth a few times in order to remove it. If you do not have an impact gun, take it to a muffler shop and have them do it. BUY the correct BRASS nuts to use when installing the new pipe. Then you will not have the problem next time. Roy Nacewicz sells them. Tom

<< previous || next >>

PAGE: 1 2

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

EFV-8 Club Forum Home | Back to Home Page | Contact the Webmaster

Copyright © 2009 - EFV-8.org
Powered by < CF FORUM > v.2.1