| MICHV8 | -- 09-19-2016 @ 4:43 AM |
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A familiar problem…exhaust manifold flange nuts rusted tight. I’ve put penetrating oil on them for a couple days and heated them up, but they won’t budge. I’m concerned about the bolt snapping if I apply too much torque, so I’m at a standstill. Too make matters worse, someone has been there before me and rounded off the nuts on the passenger side to a point where I can’t get a socket or wrench to slide on tightly. So here is my question: years ago I remember seeing a nut splitting tool that would drive a “spike” into the side of the nut and supposedly break it open…do they exist and do they work? My other option is to try to grind the nut down on one side to just before the threads and try to release its grip on the bolt. Or try to reshape the sides of the nut with a grinder so I can get something to grab it? Or what? Any ideas? This message was edited by MICHV8 on 9-19-16 @ 4:44 AM
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| cliftford | -- 09-19-2016 @ 6:05 AM |
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Yes, there is a tool like you describe, but I doubt you would have room to get it on the manifold nuts. Another possibility is to use an old metric 6 point socket that is slightly smaller than man. nuts. If you can get to them with a grinder try grinding them flat like you mentioned. You might have to use something like a dremel tool. The key to the whole problem is how much room to work do you have? Check with your local tool suppliers. There might be something new out there I'n not aware of. Good luck.
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| TomO | -- 09-19-2016 @ 8:56 AM |
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Cliiford is correct about getting a nut splitter to work on the exhaust pipe. Using a socket and a breaker bar will probably break the stud. The best way to remove them is to use an impact gun and socket. Heat the nut until it is glowing red, install the impact socket and go to it. The hammering operation of the impact gun will break the rust loose. You may have to move the nut back and forth a few times in order to remove it. If you do not have an impact gun, take it to a muffler shop and have them do it. BUY the correct BRASS nuts to use when installing the new pipe. Then you will not have the problem next time. Roy Nacewicz sells them. Tom
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 09-19-2016 @ 11:30 AM |
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I would also use an 8 point socket so not to round over the nuts. Brass nuts are the way to go or stainless steel if you don't show your car. Also reassemble with anti-seeze.
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| cliftford | -- 09-19-2016 @ 8:56 PM |
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Woodiewagon, I assume you mean 6 point sockets. My advice if you use a torch: do it outside if possible and keep a fire extingiusher handy at all times.
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| MICHV8 | -- 09-20-2016 @ 5:12 AM |
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fenders (inner as well),radiator,grille,bumper,etc. are off so I have a fair amount of approach space. The passenger side (59AB) gives me some nut visibility and I ordered the Sears nut cracking tool which gets good reviews. The driver side has very limited access, but does have an extra manifold flange add-on which looks to be part of a heater unit air control. Because of the add-on, the studs are longer which might allow me to simply grind off the nuts and discard the add-on leaving enough stud thread to bolt on the exhaust pipe flange. Thanks to all for the support. Lots of swearing seems to help...
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| cliftford | -- 09-20-2016 @ 6:15 AM |
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The "add on" you refer to is the heat riser valve. If you eliminate it you might find that the crossover pipe,if your engine has one, won't fit right. So try to keep the studs full length if you can. If you are changing to dual pipes this will not be a problem. Some people myself included, feel that this valve does little good anyway and eliminate it, or cut the center out of it and put it back on to get correct spacing. This message was edited by cliftford on 9-20-16 @ 6:17 AM
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| carcrazy | -- 09-20-2016 @ 9:38 AM |
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You can use a long cold chisel to split the frozen nut parallel to it's axis while being careful not to damage the stud.
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| fordv8j | -- 09-20-2016 @ 12:25 PM |
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To much hammering on the nuts may break the manifold
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| shogun1940 | -- 09-26-2016 @ 12:10 PM |
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The pros now have an induction heater that you wrap around a nut and plug it into 110v.. Heat the nut and let it cool three or four times then heat the nut from cold and do not turn it until the stud is gray or it will twist off. The nut splitter should also work and the chisel will work if it is sharp and small. Patience is the answer
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| GK1918 | -- 09-28-2016 @ 2:26 AM |
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This is all too common here in our shop. First off all snake oils are a waste of time. It doesn't matter new or old. The new vehicles using heat is usually not advised too much plastic. Nut splitters do work but they need more space. What we do is with a die grinder & cut off wheel cut down one side of the nut almost to the threads to weaken it and with one tap it will fall off then chase threads with a die. Want a challange? try removing late manifolds with aluminum heads !!
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| MICHV8 | -- 10-02-2016 @ 5:22 AM |
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Wanted to let everyone know that the Sears "nut cracker" works great and is small enough to get into some tight spaces... I'm still working on the driver side manifold which has very limited space
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