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Discussion Topic:
35 PU - new chassis or rebuild?
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alanwoodieman |
09-09-2015 @ 11:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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go with the original frame, the repairs shown are a lot easier than changing out the frame. I think Chassis Engineering has the pieces you will need for the frame to convert to automatic with an open drive line, 8" ford mustang works good so does the small dodge dart. parallel rear leaf springs. put a disc brake conversion on the front spindles (may have to change to 40)
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35Matt |
09-08-2015 @ 8:54 AM
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Member
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Joined: Sep 2015
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Triford, thanks. What do you mean by axle/ disc in the front? Is this a swap to a solid axle? I'm guessing what I have is stock, it's The cross beam, and an upside down leaf spring in front & rear, After some additional research, and speaking to some who remember riding in these trucks, I am going to try and restore the frame, use the factory front suspension, use the 24 bolt flat head (if its rebuildable), and use a C4 with the modified floor pans. What I am unfamiliar with is getting an 8 inch rear grafted in there and at a minimum disc brakes in the front. I see a few different kits for front and rear end on the chassis engineering site, but not exactly sure what I am wanting/ which is a better kit. Does anyone have any recommendations? (I emailed chassis engineering, no reply yet)
This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-8-15 @ 9:19 AM
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trjford8 |
09-04-2015 @ 7:17 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
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Matt, if you can do the work yourself you can save money. If you have to "farm the work out" you might be better off buying the new frame. If you want to save a little money why not go with the axle/disc brakes in the front? I've done them both ways and I don't think the Mustang II rides much better than the old axle with a cross spring. If you are leaving the flathead the axle looks more traditional. Talk with Chassis Engineering in Iowa. They make some great products and also build frames.
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35Matt |
09-03-2015 @ 9:30 PM
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Member
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Joined: Sep 2015
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This is where my dilemma comes in. What is something like this going to cost me? I can price out a mustang II front end, a hub to hub upgrade kit, 8 or 9 inch rear end, leaf springs and then guess at what it's going to cost to have this grafted onto the original chassis..... Or get a frame ready to go for about $9k....... Or get the above frame bare, and then pick up the hub to hub kit, steering and rear end separate, but bolt in for about $5k (the frame part only, the hub kit (front suspension) is about $500, the rear probably $200 from a junk yard. I think as this discussion progresses maybe I've already convinced myself to do an aftermarket frame and I'm looking for convincing to stay original, if the cost savings is significant enough to go that route. My other issue is I don't know of a reputable shop that could do the work.
This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 9:31 PM
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nelsb01 |
09-03-2015 @ 8:22 PM
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Senior
Posts: 982
Joined: Oct 2009
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The rear member (end of the frame) is an easy fix. I currently am having a metal stamping company make one for me. They looked at mine (a little less bent than yours) and said it would not be a problem to create. There are 'replacement' rivets out there -- rivet headed bolts -- that will make it look factory. The other places where there are frame cracks can be fixed with a knowledgeable welder (and grinder).
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35Matt |
09-03-2015 @ 7:28 PM
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Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sep 2015
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Passenger side.
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35Matt |
09-03-2015 @ 7:27 PM
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Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sep 2015
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Passenger side, bed area, in front of rear tire area.
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35Matt |
09-03-2015 @ 7:25 PM
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Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sep 2015
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Thanks for your help. Here are more pics of the damage I'm aware of. Rear beam.
This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 7:28 PM
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trjford8 |
09-03-2015 @ 1:42 PM
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Senior
Posts: 4215
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks for the reply and photo. You have the flatbed pickup which uses the passenger car chassis. If your existing frame is good and solid I would use it and buy the aftermarket suspension pieces. The critical area to check is the area where the crossmembers enter the frame at the rear just before the "kickup". If it is rusty or weak in this area the frame will not lend itself to the aftermarket parallel leaf spring kits. The front brackets bolt into this area. You indicated some problems with the frame. Do you have photos of those areas? I've done several of these type projects using the original frame and will soon be assisting a young guy with an automatic to a flathead in a '40 pickup with an original frame. I've also put an automatic behind a flathead in '40 coupe. I hope I can be some help.
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35Matt |
09-03-2015 @ 8:08 AM
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Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Sep 2015
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I would assume a regular flat bed. Single axle. I do not intend to keep it a flat bed, however if it came to that I would have a set of rear fenders that came with it put on and do a flat bed between the fenders, sort of a narrow flat bed. I have the stake bed sides as well but am not using those either.
This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 8:10 AM
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