| 35Matt | -- 09-01-2015 @ 4:48 PM |
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I'm new here. Just picked up my first vintage 35 flat bed, in 5000 pieces from a seller who was collecting for several years while he restored a 38. My initial question: is it better to rebuild/ modify the current frame or go aftermarket (fatman or obsolete ford parts)? I intend to keep the flat head with a newer automatic trans (what will bolt up to a flat head, I have no clue yet) and drive this truck as much as I can when its finished. I know keeping the current frame will require modification for a newer trans, new rear end with gears, and suspension upgrade at a minimum. I have seen in the catalogs that a new frame with rear end, disc brakes, ready to accept newer trans, upgraded suspension, and steering is an option. Is is worth it?
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| TomO | -- 09-02-2015 @ 7:46 AM |
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IMHO driving the vehicle as Henry made it is the best part of owning an old Ford. Only you can decide if it is worth it to go to a new frame. If you want all of the new goodies, a new frame will make it easier to install them. A new frame and the goodies that you want to install will affect the market value of the truck. Many people like the original driving experience. Tom This message was edited by TomO on 9-2-15 @ 7:48 AM
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| CharlieStephens | -- 09-02-2015 @ 11:39 AM |
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Be sure to talk to your local motor vehicle department since the new frame will come without a serial number. Charlie Stephens
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| 35Matt | -- 09-02-2015 @ 9:14 PM |
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I understand the serial/ vin issue, I had to go see a judge to get a court order to issue me a title as mine only came with a BOS. As far as new vs old frame, I can understand originality, however I know that no amount of retrofit to an aged frame will make it ride like a newer one. Riding in my 96 Cobra with upgraded suspension comes nowhere near to my wife's stock 14 Mustang. What I'm trying to figure out is that if is cost effective to go aftermarket or redo original to match aftermarket? The current frame is rust free, but does have a crack where the flat bed was, the rear cross beam is bent, and one of the cross beams with the circles in it from the side rail to the "X" has a chunk missing out of it. I also considered boxing it in if I were to restore the original frame. Has anyone here done an aftermarket or newer frame? This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-2-15 @ 11:39 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 09-03-2015 @ 7:14 AM |
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Matt, when you say flatbed are you talking about a flatbed pickup or a larger flatbed?
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| 35Matt | -- 09-03-2015 @ 8:08 AM |
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I would assume a regular flat bed. Single axle. I do not intend to keep it a flat bed, however if it came to that I would have a set of rear fenders that came with it put on and do a flat bed between the fenders, sort of a narrow flat bed. I have the stake bed sides as well but am not using those either. This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 8:10 AM
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| trjford8 | -- 09-03-2015 @ 1:42 PM |
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Thanks for the reply and photo. You have the flatbed pickup which uses the passenger car chassis. If your existing frame is good and solid I would use it and buy the aftermarket suspension pieces. The critical area to check is the area where the crossmembers enter the frame at the rear just before the "kickup". If it is rusty or weak in this area the frame will not lend itself to the aftermarket parallel leaf spring kits. The front brackets bolt into this area. You indicated some problems with the frame. Do you have photos of those areas? I've done several of these type projects using the original frame and will soon be assisting a young guy with an automatic to a flathead in a '40 pickup with an original frame. I've also put an automatic behind a flathead in '40 coupe. I hope I can be some help.
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| 35Matt | -- 09-03-2015 @ 7:25 PM |
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Thanks for your help. Here are more pics of the damage I'm aware of. Rear beam. This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 7:28 PM
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| 35Matt | -- 09-03-2015 @ 7:27 PM |
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Passenger side, bed area, in front of rear tire area.
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| 35Matt | -- 09-03-2015 @ 7:28 PM |
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Passenger side.
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| nelsb01 | -- 09-03-2015 @ 8:22 PM |
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The rear member (end of the frame) is an easy fix. I currently am having a metal stamping company make one for me. They looked at mine (a little less bent than yours) and said it would not be a problem to create. There are 'replacement' rivets out there -- rivet headed bolts -- that will make it look factory. The other places where there are frame cracks can be fixed with a knowledgeable welder (and grinder).
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| 35Matt | -- 09-03-2015 @ 9:30 PM |
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This is where my dilemma comes in. What is something like this going to cost me? I can price out a mustang II front end, a hub to hub upgrade kit, 8 or 9 inch rear end, leaf springs and then guess at what it's going to cost to have this grafted onto the original chassis..... Or get a frame ready to go for about $9k....... Or get the above frame bare, and then pick up the hub to hub kit, steering and rear end separate, but bolt in for about $5k (the frame part only, the hub kit (front suspension) is about $500, the rear probably $200 from a junk yard. I think as this discussion progresses maybe I've already convinced myself to do an aftermarket frame and I'm looking for convincing to stay original, if the cost savings is significant enough to go that route. My other issue is I don't know of a reputable shop that could do the work. This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-3-15 @ 9:31 PM
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| trjford8 | -- 09-04-2015 @ 7:17 AM |
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Matt, if you can do the work yourself you can save money. If you have to "farm the work out" you might be better off buying the new frame. If you want to save a little money why not go with the axle/disc brakes in the front? I've done them both ways and I don't think the Mustang II rides much better than the old axle with a cross spring. If you are leaving the flathead the axle looks more traditional. Talk with Chassis Engineering in Iowa. They make some great products and also build frames.
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| 35Matt | -- 09-08-2015 @ 8:54 AM |
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Triford, thanks. What do you mean by axle/ disc in the front? Is this a swap to a solid axle? I'm guessing what I have is stock, it's The cross beam, and an upside down leaf spring in front & rear, After some additional research, and speaking to some who remember riding in these trucks, I am going to try and restore the frame, use the factory front suspension, use the 24 bolt flat head (if its rebuildable), and use a C4 with the modified floor pans. What I am unfamiliar with is getting an 8 inch rear grafted in there and at a minimum disc brakes in the front. I see a few different kits for front and rear end on the chassis engineering site, but not exactly sure what I am wanting/ which is a better kit. Does anyone have any recommendations? (I emailed chassis engineering, no reply yet) This message was edited by 35Matt on 9-8-15 @ 9:19 AM
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| alanwoodieman | -- 09-09-2015 @ 11:16 AM |
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go with the original frame, the repairs shown are a lot easier than changing out the frame. I think Chassis Engineering has the pieces you will need for the frame to convert to automatic with an open drive line, 8" ford mustang works good so does the small dodge dart. parallel rear leaf springs. put a disc brake conversion on the front spindles (may have to change to 40)
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