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Discussion Topic:
'47 Rear Window Seal Replacement Procedure
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 3:58 AM
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I've been researching the correct process and materials for replacing the rear window seal on the '47 Merc. The '41-'48 Shop Manual as well as Van Pelt's site appears Ford-specific and no mention is made of the process for the safe removal and re-installation of the exterior stainless trim on the Merc. Also I could use recommendations on the best, most effective 'molding sealing compound' and processes for re-installation. Most videos I've watched do not recommend use of 'molding sealing compound' anywhere but the Ford processes call for it around the exterior perimeters of the seal to the body and glass to the seal. Greatly appreciate any and all input - EDIT - meant to add this link to Eastwood's process for reinserting the glass using cord and ask, other than inserting the bottom of the glass first on the Merc and working around to the top (versus the reverse process in the video) is this basically how the process works for our cars: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvcJ_lU_VpQ Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 6-29-16 @ 4:47 AM
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TomO |
06-29-2016 @ 7:42 AM
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The video shows how the process works, but it is backwards from the Ford procedure. Use the Ford shop manual procedure as the rubber seal is made to work with the window installed from the inside. My memory is hazy on this, but I believe that you leave the stainless trim on during removal and install it on the seal before installation. Check with Rusty Davis to make sure. I like to use the clear windshield sealer by Permatex to seal the rubber to the body and the glass to the rubber. Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer I like to leave the rubber seal to body not sealed at the bottom, but do seal the bottom of the glass to the rubber seal. Tom
This message was edited by TomO on 6-29-16 @ 8:40 AM
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 8:42 AM
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Thanks Tom. Vince @ Dennis Carpenter echoed your recollection on the process for removal and installation of the stainless trim. I couldn't find that info anywhere and have to depend upon those who've gone before me on this one. Looks dicey to me on removal of the window without damaging the stainless but I'll give it a go. I did order the nylon coated pry bar kit from Eastwood that you recommended to me previously. I'll look for the 81730 later today - thanks for the recommendation. Do you think that same product will work to seal the very small cracks in the original windshield seal? The passenger side windshield weeped water every so slightly onto the dash above the glove box the first and only time I've washed the car (dusted and polished it ever since, never driven in rain) and I can see the seal is dried out, brittle and cracked open on that side adequate to let water in. The rear window seal is so aged and dried out it has pulled away from the body at the bottom in the middle so it has to be replaced now before I risk driving the car in rain. I do not plan to replace the windshield seal before the trip to Gettysburg and want to ensure that leak is addressed before the drive. Appreciate your thoughts &/or recommendation here as well. Thanks again Tom -
Steve
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TomO |
06-29-2016 @ 9:08 AM
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Steve, I just did a search and I believe that my memory was incorrect. Supereal says that the stainless is removed before removing the seal and installed after the seal is installed in the car. Here is a link to the post. http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/viewmessages.cfm?Forum=18&Topic=2372&keywords=rear%20window%20seal The Permatex sealer is clear and it finds the crack to seal them, so it should help your windshield leak. It is probably the seal of the glass to the rubber that has failed.
Tom
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 9:51 AM
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Wow - great catch Tom. I just finished sending you a PM and was about to walk out to the garage when I saw your reply. I'll digest Supereal's comments and get back to you and others with any further questions before starting the removal later today. Thanks again -
Steve
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 10:47 AM
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Tom/all - I see where supereal states the trim is installed after the window is in place, but I do not see where he states it is to be removed prior to removing the window. In looking at the window, seal and trim just now it is not intuitive how the trim attaches to the seal and how it can be removed before the window is removed without possibly bending or damaging it. Supereal - you out there for clarification!? Anybody have any experience here you can share with us?
Steve
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 11:10 AM
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Right, correct or not - just removed the trim in its entirety without damaging it or the window. Broke the center stainless mating clip loose from its decades old bond with each end of the trim, slid it aside in one direction, then using a plastic electronics screwdriver gently tugged out the driver's side of the trim far enough to peer inside and with a small flashlight see how it was attached to the seal. Then (and this wasn't easy) firmly but gently (figure that one out) began pulling the trim clear of the seal with the plastic screwdriver extending as far inside as possible to spread the force, left side around to the bottom center, then right side same. Clearly the original seal - looks like Ford used some sort of black sealant between the body and the seal that dried out long, long ago and detached from the rubber as the seal dried out and became brittle. Rubber underneath and in the interior is still soft and supple so the leak could have been from anywhere around the outside of the seal. Cleaning that hard-as-rock goop off the body flange looks to be challenging. Looking now at the interior and the seal against the original, undamaged, no rips or tears, no stains, no moth-holed headliner and wondering about tricks from this point on to ensure no damage to the headliner occurs. Hmmm... EDIT - am stunned but thankful to find no body or flange rust at all under the seal anywhere around the full perimeter of the window. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 6-29-16 @ 11:23 AM
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len47merc |
06-29-2016 @ 2:35 PM
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Rear window is out in one piece. Body metal not marred. Package tray and headliner unscathed. Thanks to you all for weighing in with good feedback to give this ole boy confidence to give it a go. Once everything is cleaned up it's hurry up and wait time for the seal to arrive, so... Now - any tips on how to remove the old, crusty black sealant that was put on 69 years ago without damaging paint and scratching the body window flange?
Steve
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len47merc |
06-30-2016 @ 5:39 AM
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Been working the crusty old dried up black muck on the external rear window sealant flange for about an hour now with WD40 and a cut-at-an-angle wooden dowel rod. Have got about 1" almost clean. Ooopphhh. Anything else that will not harm paint while being more effective and efficient in breaking this old adhesive/sealant down is greatly appreciated.
Steve
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Kens 36 |
06-30-2016 @ 6:56 AM
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Steve, Try 3M Adhesive Remover. It should be available at most auto parts stores. Will still require a lot of elbow grease, but will be better than the WD40. Ken
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