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Discussion Topic:
'47 Rear Window Seal Replacement Procedure
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cliftford |
06-30-2016 @ 6:57 AM
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Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
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Hi Steve, here are some thoughts: use a MODERATE amount of heat, like a hair dryer to soften up the adhesive, and use a small ball peen to tap on the stick, or instead of the stick, try a piece of plastic, such as an old tooth brush handle. Good luck, Gene
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len47merc |
06-30-2016 @ 8:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Thanks Gene & Kens 36. Gave it a go with my wife's hair dryer (since I'm typing this - clearly without her knowledge) and got the metal as hot as I dared but the old sealant never softened. Perhaps I could go hotter but do not want to chance softening the headliner adhesive underneath or damaging the paint so, of to look for some 3M Adhesive Remover. Thanks again to you both - will post results later.
Steve
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len47merc |
07-15-2016 @ 6:55 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Follow-up and for anyone attempting to remove old window seal sealant down the road: I cut 6" and 12" long x ~1/2" wide strips of a clean old white cotton T-shirt that had be decommissioned and relegated to rag status and saturated the strip(s) with 3M Adhesive Remover 08984 (per Ken's recommendation). Making provisions to ensure none of the cleaner would enter the car and/or drip on the headliner or rear package tray, I 'pasted' either 6" (sides) or 12" (top & bottom) at a time on the old adhesive and let it set for 30 minutes each go, re-saturating after 15 minutes or so just to the point the cleaner would not drip or run. This 'soak' softened-up SOME of the depth of the old sealant each time from the dried-out, crusty material and would stay that way long enough to work some of it off. After each soaking I used a small plastic electronics screwdriver and a small nylon coated pry bar to scr*pe the now softened, very viscous and thick old sealant off. Some areas took 3-4 applications of this process to get the bulk of the old 'chunks' off. After it was basically reduced to a film and/or very thin, then using a non-abrasive scrubbing sponge with some more of the 3M Adhesive Cleaner the flange was left squeaky clean and ready for the window re-install without any adverse affect on the paint. Worked on this over 3 days in the mornings to avoid the heat of the day - took a lot of patience. Very pleased with the results - thanks to all for weighing in with your thoughts and helping here. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 7-15-16 @ 7:05 AM
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Kens 36 |
07-15-2016 @ 7:15 AM
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Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, Thanks for the update. That process seems like it takes forever, but it is a thrill when you have success. Good luck getting your Mercury back together and ready for the trip - I'm looking forward to seeing it (and you) again in Gettysburg. Looks like it will be in good company - a little birdie tells me that there will be three '47 Mercs on the concourse. Ken
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len47merc |
07-15-2016 @ 7:47 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Sounds great - look me up! What will you be driving/showing Ken?
Steve
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Kens 36 |
07-15-2016 @ 2:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 343
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, 1950 Convertible - Casino Cream. Ken
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len47merc |
07-15-2016 @ 2:33 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Thanks Ken - absolutely beautiful car and easy to find on the Concourse. Nice backdrop too! Here's one of the '47. Looking more forward to it every day now...see you there!
Steve
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len47merc |
07-17-2016 @ 1:07 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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All - rear window is back in but not yet sealed. After researching the proper process and sequence from many of you here on the forum, in preparing now to seal the rubber to the body and rubber to the glass it is clear the stainless trim has to be installed as it helps to ensure the rubber seal is held tightly to the glass. Further, the sealant for this area has to be installed just prior to installing the stainless trim (cannot be done after as the rubber will be so tight to the glass that the sealant tip can not be inserted under the rubber). So the question is what is the best lubricant, that does not react adversely with rubber, will help preserve the rubber and help it remain supple and is ok to remain in the groove for the stainless trim, to use to reinstall the cleaned stainless trim onto the rubber seal most quickly and efficiently? Ivory soap as I believe supereal indicates he uses to install the window? Vaseline? Silicone? The sealant for this portion of the window (Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer) cures relatively quickly and I want to install the now squeaky clean stainless trim as swiftly as possible into the new rubber to get the rubber seal pressed against the glass before the sealent begins to cure. Thanks -
Steve
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TomO |
07-18-2016 @ 8:33 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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If it is difficult to install the stainless trim, you can use a silicone lube or an electrical wire pulling lube. The trim around my windshield rubber, just slipped on without any additional lubricant. The new rubber should be flexible enough so that a lube is not needed. If you do use any lubricant, use it sparingly to prevent it migrating out and causing other problems.
Tom
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anzael |
07-21-2016 @ 10:03 PM
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Member
Posts: 5
Joined: Jul 2016
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Thank you very much! I already put in a 6v and connected to positive ground. <a herf="www.anzael.com">anzael.com</a>
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