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Discussion Topic:
1946 Mercury
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Peder D |
08-20-2015 @ 5:10 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hey all! I'm having problems with my lighting. Weak headlights, taillights and worst of all weak brake lights. Requires stepping on pedal really hard for them to light up. I use the original 6-volt, all the wiring was replaced in 2005, and grounded well to the best of my knowledge. Possible "overlook"? I use the old style sealed beams. Brake switch replaced in 2005. Also installed after market turn signals incorporated in the original park and rear lights. They work well. Battery new in 2007. Charges and starts well. Any suggestions on an upgrade? Does anyone supply LED headlights and an extra stop light lamp for the 6-volt? Thinking of installing fog or driving lights, as lights must be lit up daytime as well in this country. Thanks, Peder
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TomO |
08-20-2015 @ 7:36 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hello Peder, The most important part of getting brighter lights is getting the correct voltage to the bulbs. You need a minimum of 5.5 volts to get the correct brightness from the bulbs. Make sure that your battery is in good condition and that you have 6 Volt cables that are making good connections. To test the battery, connect a good voltmeter across the battery posts (don't use the cable connections) and have someone push the starter button with the ignition switch off. Your meter should read 5.5 volts or more. To test the cables and the connections, connect the POS or red lead of the meter to the battery connection at the starter solenoid and hold the COM or NEG meter lead on the NEG battery post. Press the starter button with the ignition off and read the meter. Your reading should be 0.1 V or less. If it is more, you have the wrong cables or poor connection. Now that you know that the battery and cables are good, test the headlights. To test the headlights for proper voltage, connect a good voltmeter COM lead to the NEG battery terminal and the POS lead to a headlight bulb wire. (A convenient place is the bullet connector where the headlight wiring goes through the fender. Straighten a paper clip and insert it in the rubber until it makes contact.) Turn on the headlights and read the meter, ir should be 0.5 or less. If it is more, press the foot dimmer switch several times and repeat the test. If it is not within specs now, you will have to move the POS lead back one connection at a time. each connection should lower the reading at least 0.05. This outfit has a good 3rd brake light for your Mercury. LED tail light bulbs are also available. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/6-volt-led-3rd-brake-light I think that your brake light switch is bad. I have had good luck with the NAPA switch P/N SL134. I believe that the European Ford vehicles used the same switch.
Tom
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shogun1940 |
08-22-2015 @ 6:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 464
Joined: Feb 2010
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i painted the whole insideof my housing white,,al paint dulls,also if can find old flashlgts and take out the reflector part and widen the hole to go around the base it helps. Check all the voltages but if all the lights are dim i would check the body to frame grounds
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Peder D |
08-23-2015 @ 12:02 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ok, thanks for your help...will look into all this...Peder
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Peder D |
08-23-2015 @ 8:10 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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What about using an 8 volt battery? LED headlights?
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len47merc |
08-23-2015 @ 1:38 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Hello Peder - suggest you do a search on this forum for the last 365 days for '36 Ford Alternator & Halogen Bulbs', as well as other search words like 'dim lights', 'dim headlights', etc.. You will find extensive responses to your 8V, fog light, halogen (& possibly LED) questions. IMHO, and repeating from other responses made on this forum, a properly grounded, charging and operating 6V system will produce more than adequate headlight & all other light brightness with standard, original incandescent bulbs. As you may see in your search, I have an original very early '47 Merc (most date codes from Dec '46) with lights brighter than a neighbor's converted-to-12 volt '54. If you can be patient and go through your system completely and resolve any and all grounding and/or charging issues you likely will not find the need to convert. Additionally, converting without finding the root cause of your current dim lights may likely leave you trouble-shooting your new lights down the line.
Steve
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Peder D |
08-24-2015 @ 1:00 AM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Makes good sense, will be getting help to check out the whole system this week. Thanks.
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ken ct. |
08-24-2015 @ 3:10 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Forget the 8V battery , you will have more problems than you have now. ken ct.
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woodiewagon46 |
08-24-2015 @ 10:12 AM
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Senior
Posts: 698
Joined: Nov 2012
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Ron Francis, www.ronfrancis.com has 6 volt L.E.D. replacements. I think a clue to your taillight issue is where you state "requires stepping on pedal really hard". Your taillights should be bright no matter how hard you push down on the brake pedal. Also you state that your battery was replaced in 2007, it's 8 years old,I know it starts fine but it's time for a new one. I would do all of the above suggestions (except the 8V, the 6 volt system should be fine). I would check all the grounds first and wire brush or sand the connections.
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Peder D |
09-10-2015 @ 1:14 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hi again! Had an "electrician" check the battery voltage. All is well, and the battery is strong despite its age. His suggestion for better and brighter lights was to use a higher gauge wire. So we connected a 6mm gauge wire and the brake/turn signals became much brighter!!! Also suggested was to look into a 6 volt alternator. Any comments on replacing the generator with an alternator? I see Mac's has this alternator, but only up to 1939. Thanks, Peder
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