| Peder D | -- 08-20-2015 @ 5:10 AM |
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Hey all! I'm having problems with my lighting. Weak headlights, taillights and worst of all weak brake lights. Requires stepping on pedal really hard for them to light up. I use the original 6-volt, all the wiring was replaced in 2005, and grounded well to the best of my knowledge. Possible "overlook"? I use the old style sealed beams. Brake switch replaced in 2005. Also installed after market turn signals incorporated in the original park and rear lights. They work well. Battery new in 2007. Charges and starts well. Any suggestions on an upgrade? Does anyone supply LED headlights and an extra stop light lamp for the 6-volt? Thinking of installing fog or driving lights, as lights must be lit up daytime as well in this country. Thanks, Peder
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| TomO | -- 08-20-2015 @ 7:36 AM |
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Hello Peder, The most important part of getting brighter lights is getting the correct voltage to the bulbs. You need a minimum of 5.5 volts to get the correct brightness from the bulbs. Make sure that your battery is in good condition and that you have 6 Volt cables that are making good connections. To test the battery, connect a good voltmeter across the battery posts (don't use the cable connections) and have someone push the starter button with the ignition switch off. Your meter should read 5.5 volts or more. To test the cables and the connections, connect the POS or red lead of the meter to the battery connection at the starter solenoid and hold the COM or NEG meter lead on the NEG battery post. Press the starter button with the ignition off and read the meter. Your reading should be 0.1 V or less. If it is more, you have the wrong cables or poor connection. Now that you know that the battery and cables are good, test the headlights. To test the headlights for proper voltage, connect a good voltmeter COM lead to the NEG battery terminal and the POS lead to a headlight bulb wire. (A convenient place is the bullet connector where the headlight wiring goes through the fender. Straighten a paper clip and insert it in the rubber until it makes contact.) Turn on the headlights and read the meter, ir should be 0.5 or less. If it is more, press the foot dimmer switch several times and repeat the test. If it is not within specs now, you will have to move the POS lead back one connection at a time. each connection should lower the reading at least 0.05. This outfit has a good 3rd brake light for your Mercury. LED tail light bulbs are also available. http://www.watsons-streetworks.com/6-volt-led-3rd-brake-light I think that your brake light switch is bad. I have had good luck with the NAPA switch P/N SL134. I believe that the European Ford vehicles used the same switch. Tom
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| shogun1940 | -- 08-22-2015 @ 6:56 PM |
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i painted the whole insideof my housing white,,al paint dulls,also if can find old flashlgts and take out the reflector part and widen the hole to go around the base it helps. Check all the voltages but if all the lights are dim i would check the body to frame grounds
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| Peder D | -- 08-23-2015 @ 12:02 AM |
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Ok, thanks for your help...will look into all this...Peder
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| Peder D | -- 08-23-2015 @ 8:10 AM |
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What about using an 8 volt battery? LED headlights?
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| len47merc | -- 08-23-2015 @ 1:38 PM |
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Hello Peder - suggest you do a search on this forum for the last 365 days for '36 Ford Alternator & Halogen Bulbs', as well as other search words like 'dim lights', 'dim headlights', etc.. You will find extensive responses to your 8V, fog light, halogen (& possibly LED) questions. IMHO, and repeating from other responses made on this forum, a properly grounded, charging and operating 6V system will produce more than adequate headlight & all other light brightness with standard, original incandescent bulbs. As you may see in your search, I have an original very early '47 Merc (most date codes from Dec '46) with lights brighter than a neighbor's converted-to-12 volt '54. If you can be patient and go through your system completely and resolve any and all grounding and/or charging issues you likely will not find the need to convert. Additionally, converting without finding the root cause of your current dim lights may likely leave you trouble-shooting your new lights down the line. Steve
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| Peder D | -- 08-24-2015 @ 1:00 AM |
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Makes good sense, will be getting help to check out the whole system this week. Thanks.
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| ken ct. | -- 08-24-2015 @ 3:10 AM |
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Forget the 8V battery , you will have more problems than you have now. ken ct.
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| woodiewagon46 | -- 08-24-2015 @ 10:12 AM |
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Ron Francis, www.ronfrancis.com has 6 volt L.E.D. replacements. I think a clue to your taillight issue is where you state "requires stepping on pedal really hard". Your taillights should be bright no matter how hard you push down on the brake pedal. Also you state that your battery was replaced in 2007, it's 8 years old,I know it starts fine but it's time for a new one. I would do all of the above suggestions (except the 8V, the 6 volt system should be fine). I would check all the grounds first and wire brush or sand the connections.
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| Peder D | -- 09-10-2015 @ 1:14 PM |
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Hi again! Had an "electrician" check the battery voltage. All is well, and the battery is strong despite its age. His suggestion for better and brighter lights was to use a higher gauge wire. So we connected a 6mm gauge wire and the brake/turn signals became much brighter!!! Also suggested was to look into a 6 volt alternator. Any comments on replacing the generator with an alternator? I see Mac's has this alternator, but only up to 1939. Thanks, Peder
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| cliftford | -- 09-10-2015 @ 3:32 PM |
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If you're not worried about originality, an alternator is by far the best way to go. I recently bought one for my '48, and am happy with it. It is a 6v, pos ground, and is listed in Mac's catalogue, part# 32-12899-1, with bracket for $165.00.
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| Peder D | -- 09-11-2015 @ 2:34 AM |
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Thanks Cliftford! I like to keep my car as original as possible, but sometimes a change is for the better, and in this case, based on your happy experience, I will get in touch with Mac's...thanks again...Peder
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| Peder D | -- 09-15-2015 @ 12:45 PM |
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Hi again! Regarding the alternator, Mac's ad also states that it is necessary to source a v-belt for this unit...do you have the part no. for that belt? Thank you. Peder
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| cliftford | -- 09-15-2015 @ 1:16 PM |
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Hi Peder,I used a Bando BX 53 for the alt. and water pumps and a B35 for the fan. This put everything right in the middle of the adjustment range. I'm sure your supplier can cross reference these #s to Gates or other brands.
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| Peder D | -- 09-15-2015 @ 2:18 PM |
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Did you buy those belts at Mac's? Can't find them there, or any others for that matter...a part no. would help...not sure if these can be bought in Norway...thanks... Peder
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| cliftford | -- 09-15-2015 @ 3:09 PM |
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I got the belts from a firm that sells belts , chain drives, for industrial use. I believe those numbers are the inside length in inches. you might try ebay.
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| TomO | -- 09-17-2015 @ 6:40 AM |
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Peder, Installing an alternator will not make your lights brighter. The brightness depends upon the voltage delivered to the lights. 6 Volt lights require at least 5.5 volts to get to their design output. A generator in good condition will provide 7.2- 7.4 volts around 1,000 rpm. An alternator in good condition will provide the 7.2-7.4 Volts at a lower rpm. These voltages are measured at the voltage regulator battery seminal. Your lights may not be getting the proper voltage due to Resistance in the circuit. The voltage drop test that i described in my earlier post will help you isolate the circuit resistance. The tail lights and stop lights can appear dim due to the color of the lens. Some lenses are much darker than others. Tom
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