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Discussion Topic:
starter removal
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earls50flat |
07-09-2014 @ 10:26 AM
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Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jan 2014
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Starter just clicks when I hit the button. I'm having trouble removing my starter. Two bolts through starter removed still stuck . What am I missing ?
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len47merc |
07-09-2014 @ 10:50 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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It is a bit non-intuitive but it will come out easily every time after you accomplish it the 1st time. First, be sure you have removed not only the two through bolts but also the starter motor to engine pan bracket that is secured by one of the oil pan bolts. Then, copying and pasting from the '42-'48 Shop Manual, page R-16: "3. Starter motor may be removed from engine by first pulling (the starter) motor forward and (then) tilting in toward engine (driver side) slightly until starter drive clears flywheel ring gear" What gave me fits my first attempt at removal was not removing the starter motor to engine pan bracket. Once removing that it allowed more adequate tilting of the forward end of the starter motor toward the driver's side and it came out easily then. If the starter is simply stuck to the oil pan from years of attachment you may have to gently pry the front of the starter against the block (with wood - no metal) or gently tap the front of the starter with a rubber mallet to break the bond, then follow the above. If doing this be careful not to tap the middle/side of the starter so as not to damage the coil(s). Mine was a bit stuck but broke loose fairly easily with a simple hand tug on the front of the starter downward, then removed by the above process. Hopefully some or all of this will help. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 7-9-14 @ 10:59 AM
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ford38v8 |
07-09-2014 @ 11:13 AM
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Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
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Earl, Your starter may not be the problem. The battery may be weak, or your solenoid defective. Try a heavy jumper from your fully charged battery directly to the terminal on the starter. The previous advice on removal is good, but I'll add one detail: The through bolts are the only means to hold the starter together. As you don't want a handful of starter parts, keep the bolts in the starter and put a nut on one bolt as it comes free of the oil pan. If prying, care must be taken to not deform the oil pan.
Alan
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earls50flat |
07-09-2014 @ 7:13 PM
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Member
Posts: 6
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OK,I'm still stuck. I'll post pictures. You will notice the starter came apart and I'll deal with that, but where is this connection to the oil pan?
This message was edited by earls50flat on 7-9-14 @ 7:14 PM
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TomO |
07-09-2014 @ 8:00 PM
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The bracket that connects to the pan is on the starter bolt nearest to the pan. It seems like your Bendix drive might hung up on the flywheel. Try putting the trans in 3rd and try to rock the car backwards. If the Bendix is hung up, the car will not move, keep rocking it until you hear the Bendix break loose.
Tom
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CharlieStephens |
07-09-2014 @ 9:42 PM
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The connection to the oil pan is a bracket located at the front of the starter that attaches to the oil pan. They are usually left off when the starter is worked on but should be there. C&G has them in their catalog: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search&year_choice=40&searchtextdesc=starter+bracket&sd=Search&searchnumber= Charlie Stephens
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len47merc |
07-10-2014 @ 3:59 AM
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Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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With your starter now apart don't worry so much about the starter bracket - TomO's suggestion is likely to solve your issue and the increased clearance realized by the starter now being apart will facilitate the 'tilting' requirement. The small bracket should still be attached to an oil pan bolt near the front end of the starter nearest the engine - the through bolt on the engine side of the starter passes through the small bracket before entering the starter. Is the starter's rear end plate loose or tightly stuck to the oil pan? Is there any play in the interface between this part and the mating surface with the oil pan? If not and it is still tightly adhered you will need to break that bond. If this is the case try a light application of penetrating oil/release agent like PB Blaster or equivalent to the full perimeter and then work on getting that released, taking care as Alan noted not to damage/bend/deform the oil pan in the process. Tapping with a soft wooden/plastic/rubber mallet, additional use of a similar material 'punch', along with rotating with your hands all may be required for the end plate. Until this is loose be careful not to apply too much leveraging pressure to the front of the armature so as to protect the interface between the armature and the starter's rear end plate. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 7-10-14 @ 4:02 AM
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len47merc |
07-10-2014 @ 4:45 AM
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Attached is a pic of an installed bracket. Hopefully this will help clarify location and the potential interference impact on removal of a fully assembled starter.
Steve
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TomO |
07-10-2014 @ 6:16 AM
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If you do not have this bracket (P/N 8A-11140) you should get one and install it. The bracket helps to support the starter and keeps it from twisting and the resultant jamming of the Bendix drive.
Tom
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len47merc |
07-13-2014 @ 7:20 AM
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Joined: Oct 2013
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Did you succeed in removing your starter? If so, what are your removal process and physical observations and what did you ultimately find? Thanks -
Steve
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