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Discussion Topic:
starter removal
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TomO |
07-29-2014 @ 6:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Earls50flat, have you solved your starter problem?
Tom
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len47merc |
07-13-2014 @ 12:14 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Dove tailing with TomO's last comment, pulling the spark plugs may facilitate more movement as well.
Steve
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TomO |
07-13-2014 @ 8:41 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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Try putting the trans in first gear to give more movement when you try to push the car backwards. You must get the engine to turn backwards a small amount in order to free the Bendix from the ring gear. They usually make a loud noise when they break loose. It would be easier if you had a 51 or later as they had a small inspection pan that could be removed.
Tom
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earls50flat |
07-13-2014 @ 7:57 AM
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Member
Posts: 6
Joined: Jan 2014
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Still fighting with it. Rocked it in gear several times. Still no luck. Will be trying again. Am not sure what to try next. There is no movement. It is as if it is still attached which it is not. I will continue to work on it but am open to suggestions.
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len47merc |
07-13-2014 @ 7:20 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Did you succeed in removing your starter? If so, what are your removal process and physical observations and what did you ultimately find? Thanks -
Steve
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TomO |
07-10-2014 @ 6:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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If you do not have this bracket (P/N 8A-11140) you should get one and install it. The bracket helps to support the starter and keeps it from twisting and the resultant jamming of the Bendix drive.
Tom
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len47merc |
07-10-2014 @ 4:45 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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Attached is a pic of an installed bracket. Hopefully this will help clarify location and the potential interference impact on removal of a fully assembled starter.
Steve
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len47merc |
07-10-2014 @ 3:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
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With your starter now apart don't worry so much about the starter bracket - TomO's suggestion is likely to solve your issue and the increased clearance realized by the starter now being apart will facilitate the 'tilting' requirement. The small bracket should still be attached to an oil pan bolt near the front end of the starter nearest the engine - the through bolt on the engine side of the starter passes through the small bracket before entering the starter. Is the starter's rear end plate loose or tightly stuck to the oil pan? Is there any play in the interface between this part and the mating surface with the oil pan? If not and it is still tightly adhered you will need to break that bond. If this is the case try a light application of penetrating oil/release agent like PB Blaster or equivalent to the full perimeter and then work on getting that released, taking care as Alan noted not to damage/bend/deform the oil pan in the process. Tapping with a soft wooden/plastic/rubber mallet, additional use of a similar material 'punch', along with rotating with your hands all may be required for the end plate. Until this is loose be careful not to apply too much leveraging pressure to the front of the armature so as to protect the interface between the armature and the starter's rear end plate. Steve
This message was edited by len47merc on 7-10-14 @ 4:02 AM
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CharlieStephens |
07-09-2014 @ 9:42 PM
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Senior
Posts: 888
Joined: Oct 2009
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The connection to the oil pan is a bracket located at the front of the starter that attaches to the oil pan. They are usually left off when the starter is worked on but should be there. C&G has them in their catalog: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat.php?searchtype=Search&year_choice=40&searchtextdesc=starter+bracket&sd=Search&searchnumber= Charlie Stephens
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TomO |
07-09-2014 @ 8:00 PM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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The bracket that connects to the pan is on the starter bolt nearest to the pan. It seems like your Bendix drive might hung up on the flywheel. Try putting the trans in 3rd and try to rock the car backwards. If the Bendix is hung up, the car will not move, keep rocking it until you hear the Bendix break loose.
Tom
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