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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / '47 Merc Front Floor Mat

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Posted By Discussion Topic: '47 Merc Front Floor Mat -- page: 1 2

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len47merc
03-19-2014 @ 5:53 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Need to remove the trans cover on a '47 Merc to remove the top trans-to-engine bolts. The original '47 front floor mat (see pic) is still in reasonable condition excepting for the aged brittleness - look at it wrong and it cracks so I know this exercise will do it in completely. Strongly prefer to come back with an original style mat with the driver and passenger carpet sections molded into the mat but have been unable to locate a source - only standard solid rubber Ford mats have been found to date. Any and all references appreciated.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 3-19-14 @ 5:54 PM

blarge
03-19-2014 @ 6:07 PM
Member
Posts: 94
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Steve: Try every trick in the book to remove the bolts from the underside and preserve your original floor mat.
If you can find a repo mat with the area where the carpet goes that is molded with an outline edge, you can sew the new carpet piece that most matches your original from the underside of the mat, then cut out the rubber and expose the carpet. This is as close as I know how to get an original look. I have never seen a replacement mat with the carpet in place. Bill Large

len47merc
03-19-2014 @ 6:58 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Thanks Bill - in considering the showing and judging of this car in the Rouge class your recommendation in trying every trick in the book (trans bolts) to preserve the original makes total sense - that is the route I will take. The original insulation/matting underneath is in very good-to-excellent condition though it is somewhat adhered to the floor pan in places and is likely going to be a brittle bear as well. The brittleness of the mat is a given as even with my best efforts it still unfortunately cracked it in a few spots on the driver's side when necessarily rebuilding/replacing the entire brake system including the gunked-up and internally rusted master cylinder. If and when it is ever removed it will disintegrate or at minimum come out in chunks it is that delicate.

A Mercury specific repo with or without a margined area for the carpet has not been located yet and any suggestions on this from anyone are appreciated. Great suggestion Bill on recreating the original design if a good repo can be sourced.

Steve

TomO
03-20-2014 @ 7:54 AM
Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Steve, I have never seen a Mercury specific front floor mat for any year Mercury. Bill Large spent a lot of time and energy restoring his Sportsman and if he could not find a mat, I doubt that there are any left.

I agree with Bill Large that you should leave the mat in place and use long extensions and universal joints to remove the top bolts or leave the engine in the car and do your detailing with it in place. If you intend on using the extensions, lower the engine onto the frame to give you more clearance.


Tom

42merc
03-20-2014 @ 10:13 AM
New Member
Posts: 126
Joined: Dec 2010
          
Long 3/8" drive extensions with a 9/16" "u" joint will access the upper bolts without a problem.
It helps to remove the motor mount cushions & rest the water pumps on the cross member.

len47merc
03-20-2014 @ 4:55 PM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Perfect - thanks. Have secured a loaner flathead motor stand so have decided to go ahead and pull the motor and install the main seals the 'easy' way. Plus will make mains, oil pump, timing cover, oil pan & starter installations much easier. Greatly appreciate 42merc's tip on 'every means possible' process to remove these trans-to-block bolts requiring cirque du soleil body contortions to remove from below.

Leaving the floor mat alone. Agree with you Tom on your Bill Large reference. Perhaps luck will shine on me one day here and I can help us all for our model years.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 3-20-14 @ 4:57 PM

blarge
03-21-2014 @ 5:26 PM
Member
Posts: 94
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Steve: The front mat used in the Mercury cars is different than the one used in a Ford. The cut out for the steering column is up higher because the angle on the steering column is different on the longer wheel base Mercury's. I have never seen a NOS mat for a Mercury. Bill Large

len47merc
03-23-2014 @ 4:58 AM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Thanks Bill. UPDATE - the motor is now out without touching the floor mat/transmission cover. After resting the water pumps on the frame (mounts removed) to lower the engine/trans, the 2 passenger-side transmission-to-block bolts removed easily with a 9/16" closed/open end wrench and a bit of umphh to break them free. Same for bottom driver's side bolt - 3/8" drive 9/16" sockets/extensions/u-joints as recommended by 42merc expedited the removal of these 3 bolts. The top driver's side required removal of the shifter linkage (for access), body contortions to break it free (little-to-no room on this one bolt to use a socket/extensions/universals), shifting of the motor & trans toward the passenger side, 1/8 turn bites with the 9/16" closed end and the patience of Job to extract the last top driver's-side bolt.

Thanks again to all for your great inputs.

Steve

42merc
03-23-2014 @ 7:45 AM
New Member
Posts: 126
Joined: Dec 2010
          
When I said 9/16" universal, I should have said 9/16" flex socket, meaning not a 9/16" socket plus a universal joint. Much more compact.
On reassembly insert the top two bolts in the trans housing before dropping the engine back in, they'll stay in place on their own.saves a little fussing later.
Every little bit helps.

len47merc
03-23-2014 @ 8:46 AM
Senior
Posts: 1165
Joined: Oct 2013
          
Thanks 42merc - that cleared up some confusion on my part regarding your earlier reference and the very limited space I had on the top driver's side bolt. The first 3 bolts were very easy to remove with the closed end 9/16" and then by hand with the extension(s)/u-joint (not flex)/socket combo. The top driver's side was a bear though and after removing the shifter linkage in tight quarters I stubbornly and bull-headedly finished that bolt with the same wrench. Will definitely take your advice on the flex socket (purchase) and reassembly pre-install of the bolts - thanks again.

Steve

This message was edited by len47merc on 3-23-14 @ 8:48 AM

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