Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Mercury Discussion / 39 Mercury Head Numerals

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: 39 Mercury Head Numerals

39mercury

04-17-2011 @ 8:23 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Mar 2011

While wire brushing the heads on my 1939 Mercury Flathead V8 I noticed numbers embossed in the head at the lower left hand corner. What do they designate? When the heads were manufactured? Also my 39 Town Sedan has a Vehicle Id number of 99A11119. Approximately when would it have been manufactured in the model run? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks. Steve Middleton

ford38v8

04-17-2011 @ 9:25 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009

Steve, I don't have a month-by-month breakdown of Mercury production, but your serial number was issued at a point approximately 11% through the years production of 101700, so I would guess about mid November, 1938.

The identifying marks on your heads would be either an 81A, being the same 6.20:1 compression head as used on Fords of the same year, but having a hp rating of 95 when used on a Mercury engine, or the number would be 99T, which had a compression rating of 6.60:1, with a 100 hp rating as used on Mercury and some trucks. An additional number, 6049 on the left, and 6050 on the right, simply identifies the part number.

Alan

TomO

04-18-2011 @ 8:11 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009

The correct number on the heads for a 1939 Mercury would be 81T-6049 or 81T-6050. The compression ratio with these heads is 6.30:1

The 99T heads were used on the 95 HP truck engines and had a compression ratio of 5.9:1

I don't know where Alan got his compression ratio numbers, but mine came from the Ford Service Bulletin dated Dec., 1939.

Tom

39mercury

04-18-2011 @ 10:54 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Mar 2011

Thanks to all for your help. I kind of thought the Merc was an early model run. My grandparents bought a new 39 Town sedan in early 1939 when my Dad was a senior in High School. He had a 33 Ford 2dr. and was very happy when he was allowed to take the Mercury on date night. My Dad and my Uncle talked about how they could out run the Neighbors Buick Century in a straight line run on the back roads of Central Indiana. I looked for a 39 Mercury for a long time and the only difference in this one and the one my family owned is the color. Mine is Black, while my grandparents was dark green. It is kind of a tribute car to some family history and I am happy to be giving it some TLC and being it's caretaker. I am 58 and hope to enjoy it for a long time and pass it on to my daughter someday.

ford38v8

04-18-2011 @ 9:05 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009

Tom, the short answer is I got lazy and pulled that info off Van Pelt's spec sheet, even though I know that second hand research is second rate at best. My apologies to all.

Alan

TomO

04-19-2011 @ 7:49 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009

Steve,

You have a very nice survivor. I enjoy seeing cars in original condition.

I am sure that you will have many years of enjoyment out of this car. If you have any more questions, we will try to answer them to the best of our ability.

Tom

39mercury

04-19-2011 @ 8:24 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Mar 2011

Tom and Alan,

Thanks for your help Tom on the Head identifier, and to Alan for the information on production numbers. This Mercury is a true survivor. The speedometer is not currently working, but it show 33k and it may be original or 133k. It did receive an NOS interior 30 years ago, but it holds up well. The Engine runs great. I did replace the water pumps and restored the radiator, and ignition. When I got the Merc it had been sitting for several years and was not running, but with a new battery, plugs, and gas, it started and ran fine. So far I have got it Mechanically sound, with new brakes, Coker 600X16R tires etc. Now the question is how far to go with giving the ol girl a new dress. As you can see in the photo, the patina is down to bare metal rash in a few places. The body is really solid. Even the tool box pan is solid, and the wooden cover is intact. It has the original Ford Script spare in the trunk. Should I take out the dings and small dents and give it a re-paint? I would probably not paint the firewall or the door jambs as they are not pristine but not rusty or without paint. I am concerned that if I don't paint the body it will begin to rust further. I know it is my decision, but your advice is appreciated. I love the car's originality, but it would really look great shiney Black again!! Any advice?? Thanks, Steve Middleton

Oh one other comment. I bought this Car in Dearborn Michigan near the U of Michigan campus and Henry Ford's Fairlane Mansion. How cool is that!

ford38v8

04-19-2011 @ 5:45 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009

Steve, I agree with Tom on the value of keeping your car original, even if only the exterior and running gear. Your interior, having been replaced, is not eligible for a Rouge Award, but it sounds like your running gear and exterior do qualify. The award I am speaking of is a prestigious award presented at a National Meet of the EFV8CA after an authenticity inspection.

Tom referred to your car as a Survivor, not an official Club description but very descriptive nonetheless, and as such, worthy of conservation as opposed to restoration. A restored car is fine, but an original trumps a restored car these days, due to the fact that there are fewer and fewer every day. Once they are gone, there is no more benchmark to work toward in the restoration of cars that didn't survive the various destructive processes of time.

The fact that your paint has been polished down to the primer in some areas is not to be seen as detrimental to value and deserved respect, but as a badge of pride that this car has been preserved lovingly as Henry built it all those many years ago. Continued care in the way of wax and polish will preserve it without rust as it has been in the past, and the patina will do you proud as its current "Caretaker".

Alan

TomO

04-20-2011 @ 8:15 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009

Steve,

I agree with Alan on the re-paint. Keep it waxed and keep the underside clean so the dirt doesn't have a chance to trap moisture causing rust.

More clubs and car shows are setting aside classifications for original cars and prices on these cars have risen accordingly. The Rouge award from the Early Ford V-8 Club is a coveted award that few cars can receive. Bloomington Gold now has a separate show for survivor cars.

If you do decide to paint the car, you should do a complete re-paint. With the paint available now, any areas left unpainted will look dingy, dull and dirty and you probably will be dissatisfied. The paint that looks closest to the original would be a single stage urethane with a hardener and not polished.

Finally my advice to you, is do as much restoration as will make you happy. It is your car and you should enjoy it the way that you want it.

Tom

39mercury

04-20-2011 @ 12:20 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 47
Joined: Mar 2011

Thanks for your advice on the restoration plans for the 39 Mercury. I think you guys have convinced me to leave the paint alone and just maintain it's originality for now. I will take your advice and keep it clean and waxed, and most of all driven. You are right in that they are only original once, and the original cars are disappearing fast. It is probably best from a financial perspective too. I have a 62 Pontiac Tempest Wagon, a 46 Plymouth I drove in High School, a 1950 Plymouth with 44k actual miles and an 84 Riviera convertible I bought new through the GM employee sale to maintain along with the three cars my family drives everyday. My Daughter is a Senior in High School and will begin College this fall so I can apply money for the Paint job to Tuition and Expenses for her Freshman year at Anderson University!! I will keep you posted on the Mercury.

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions