| 39mercury | -- 04-17-2011 @ 8:23 PM |
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While wire brushing the heads on my 1939 Mercury Flathead V8 I noticed numbers embossed in the head at the lower left hand corner. What do they designate? When the heads were manufactured? Also my 39 Town Sedan has a Vehicle Id number of 99A11119. Approximately when would it have been manufactured in the model run? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Steve Middleton
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-17-2011 @ 9:25 PM |
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Steve, I don't have a month-by-month breakdown of Mercury production, but your serial number was issued at a point approximately 11% through the years production of 101700, so I would guess about mid November, 1938. The identifying marks on your heads would be either an 81A, being the same 6.20:1 compression head as used on Fords of the same year, but having a hp rating of 95 when used on a Mercury engine, or the number would be 99T, which had a compression rating of 6.60:1, with a 100 hp rating as used on Mercury and some trucks. An additional number, 6049 on the left, and 6050 on the right, simply identifies the part number. Alan
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| TomO | -- 04-18-2011 @ 8:11 AM |
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The correct number on the heads for a 1939 Mercury would be 81T-6049 or 81T-6050. The compression ratio with these heads is 6.30:1 The 99T heads were used on the 95 HP truck engines and had a compression ratio of 5.9:1 I don't know where Alan got his compression ratio numbers, but mine came from the Ford Service Bulletin dated Dec., 1939. Tom
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| 39mercury | -- 04-18-2011 @ 10:54 AM |
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Thanks to all for your help. I kind of thought the Merc was an early model run. My grandparents bought a new 39 Town sedan in early 1939 when my Dad was a senior in High School. He had a 33 Ford 2dr. and was very happy when he was allowed to take the Mercury on date night. My Dad and my Uncle talked about how they could out run the Neighbors Buick Century in a straight line run on the back roads of Central Indiana. I looked for a 39 Mercury for a long time and the only difference in this one and the one my family owned is the color. Mine is Black, while my grandparents was dark green. It is kind of a tribute car to some family history and I am happy to be giving it some TLC and being it's caretaker. I am 58 and hope to enjoy it for a long time and pass it on to my daughter someday.
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-18-2011 @ 9:05 PM |
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Tom, the short answer is I got lazy and pulled that info off Van Pelt's spec sheet, even though I know that second hand research is second rate at best. My apologies to all. Alan
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| TomO | -- 04-19-2011 @ 7:49 AM |
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Steve, You have a very nice survivor. I enjoy seeing cars in original condition. I am sure that you will have many years of enjoyment out of this car. If you have any more questions, we will try to answer them to the best of our ability. Tom
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| 39mercury | -- 04-19-2011 @ 8:24 AM |
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Tom and Alan, Thanks for your help Tom on the Head identifier, and to Alan for the information on production numbers. This Mercury is a true survivor. The speedometer is not currently working, but it show 33k and it may be original or 133k. It did receive an NOS interior 30 years ago, but it holds up well. The Engine runs great. I did replace the water pumps and restored the radiator, and ignition. When I got the Merc it had been sitting for several years and was not running, but with a new battery, plugs, and gas, it started and ran fine. So far I have got it Mechanically sound, with new brakes, Coker 600X16R tires etc. Now the question is how far to go with giving the ol girl a new dress. As you can see in the photo, the patina is down to bare metal rash in a few places. The body is really solid. Even the tool box pan is solid, and the wooden cover is intact. It has the original Ford Script spare in the trunk. Should I take out the dings and small dents and give it a re-paint? I would probably not paint the firewall or the door jambs as they are not pristine but not rusty or without paint. I am concerned that if I don't paint the body it will begin to rust further. I know it is my decision, but your advice is appreciated. I love the car's originality, but it would really look great shiney Black again!! Any advice?? Thanks, Steve Middleton Oh one other comment. I bought this Car in Dearborn Michigan near the U of Michigan campus and Henry Ford's Fairlane Mansion. How cool is that!
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| ford38v8 | -- 04-19-2011 @ 5:45 PM |
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Steve, I agree with Tom on the value of keeping your car original, even if only the exterior and running gear. Your interior, having been replaced, is not eligible for a Rouge Award, but it sounds like your running gear and exterior do qualify. The award I am speaking of is a prestigious award presented at a National Meet of the EFV8CA after an authenticity inspection. Tom referred to your car as a Survivor, not an official Club description but very descriptive nonetheless, and as such, worthy of conservation as opposed to restoration. A restored car is fine, but an original trumps a restored car these days, due to the fact that there are fewer and fewer every day. Once they are gone, there is no more benchmark to work toward in the restoration of cars that didn't survive the various destructive processes of time. The fact that your paint has been polished down to the primer in some areas is not to be seen as detrimental to value and deserved respect, but as a badge of pride that this car has been preserved lovingly as Henry built it all those many years ago. Continued care in the way of wax and polish will preserve it without rust as it has been in the past, and the patina will do you proud as its current "Caretaker". Alan
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| TomO | -- 04-20-2011 @ 8:15 AM |
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Steve, I agree with Alan on the re-paint. Keep it waxed and keep the underside clean so the dirt doesn't have a chance to trap moisture causing rust. More clubs and car shows are setting aside classifications for original cars and prices on these cars have risen accordingly. The Rouge award from the Early Ford V-8 Club is a coveted award that few cars can receive. Bloomington Gold now has a separate show for survivor cars. If you do decide to paint the car, you should do a complete re-paint. With the paint available now, any areas left unpainted will look dingy, dull and dirty and you probably will be dissatisfied. The paint that looks closest to the original would be a single stage urethane with a hardener and not polished. Finally my advice to you, is do as much restoration as will make you happy. It is your car and you should enjoy it the way that you want it. Tom
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| 39mercury | -- 04-20-2011 @ 12:20 PM |
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Thanks for your advice on the restoration plans for the 39 Mercury. I think you guys have convinced me to leave the paint alone and just maintain it's originality for now. I will take your advice and keep it clean and waxed, and most of all driven. You are right in that they are only original once, and the original cars are disappearing fast. It is probably best from a financial perspective too. I have a 62 Pontiac Tempest Wagon, a 46 Plymouth I drove in High School, a 1950 Plymouth with 44k actual miles and an 84 Riviera convertible I bought new through the GM employee sale to maintain along with the three cars my family drives everyday. My Daughter is a Senior in High School and will begin College this fall so I can apply money for the Paint job to Tuition and Expenses for her Freshman year at Anderson University!! I will keep you posted on the Mercury.
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