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Discussion Topic:
12 Volt Conversion
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carcrazy |
11-15-2009 @ 5:51 PM
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If I want to convert the car to a 12V negative ground electrical system using an alternator what changes do I have to make to the ignition and starting systems? I want to use the original type 1938 Ford distributor (but with a remote mount coil) and starter motor. Can starters be rewound to convert them from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground? Where is the best place to have the starter rebuilt to accomplish this?
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trjford8 |
11-15-2009 @ 8:09 PM
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Basically it is a fairly easy conversion. Your starter will work without any modification.Your distributor will also be fine, but you must use a 12 volt coil along with a resistor. You will need to have a reducer on your gauges. The amp guage will work with 6 or 12 volts, but you must reverse the direction of the wire that passes through the loop on the back of the gauge. You will need to use the reducer on the gas and oil gauges. If you have a 38 the temp gauge is mechaniocal(red liquid), so no need to worry about this one. You can purchase a volt drop at the local auto parts store. You will use the reducer that Ford used in the early 60's to mid 70's on their gauges. At Napa Auto Parts the part # is IR-1. The part # for Standard Ignition Parts brand is VRC-604. Lastly you need to change all the bulbs in the car.
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carcrazy |
11-15-2009 @ 8:34 PM
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Thank you. That is most helpful.
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TomO |
11-16-2009 @ 7:15 AM
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While a 6 volt starter will work on 12 volts, I would recommend for reliability that you have your starter converted. Your 6 volt starter will spin at approximately twice the speed with 12 volts. Your starter will engage at speeds higher than it was designed for. That said, unless you are installing air conditioning, there is no reason to change to 12 volts. A properly maintained vehicle will perform satisfactorily with its original 6 volt system.
Tom
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admiral1960 |
11-16-2009 @ 8:41 AM
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The web site below is for a company that makes 15 & 20 amp voltage reducers. I have one in my 35 that drives my original radio and gauges. It could also drive a heater fan and ?? http://www.lincolnzephyr.us/gpage2.html
Allen E Michler AW1, USNR (10 yrs) LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)
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supereal |
11-16-2009 @ 8:56 AM
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Resistance type voltage reducers usually don't have the capacity to run the heater fan motor. They are dependent upon a non-fluctuating load because they are not internally regulated.
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admiral1960 |
11-17-2009 @ 8:40 AM
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This unit is not a resistor type voltage reducer. I believe it is a power transister controlled by a voltage regulator (all solid state). The package is mounted on a good looking aluminum heat sink that is easily mounted. check out the web site above - I think you will like what you see
Allen E Michler AW1, USNR (10 yrs) LTC, TC, USAR (29 yrs)
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G Tosel |
11-17-2009 @ 10:56 PM
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I have no problem with the change from 6 volts to 12 volts, but years ago when I began my project, the only problem I had with my 46 Ford was that a 6 volt battery could not maintain enough cranking power to start, especially when hot. My 36 Ford has a solution to that problem by including two 6 volt batteries with a switch that only places 12 volts (two 6 volt batteries in series) when I push the start button. All of the 6 volt power and generator operates the two 6 volt batteries in parallel allowing only 6 volts to everything else. I finished the car in 2002 after 30 years in resurrection and this system has worked well. Just a different point of view. Thanks. Gary Tosel
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supereal |
11-18-2009 @ 5:41 AM
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That is certainly a better setup than the common resistance type, but be sure that the load rating, in amps, is sufficient to handle both the running and starting load of the fan motor. Early units had rather small capacity due to the SCR's and Zener diodes commonly used.
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TomO |
11-18-2009 @ 7:44 AM
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If your car is in good shape, you should not need more than a 6 volt battery to start it. Some of the items to check if you are having trouble with cranking speed are battery capacity (sulfated or not fully charged), battery cable size (undersized 12 volt cables will not carry enough current), poor grounding (clean ground connections to the frame and body, starter connection to oil pan should not be painted ) and a starter with worn bushings. The Optima battery gives more cranking power than the replacement lead acid batteries being sold for our cars and gives the added advantage of not causing acid damage to the battery tray and surrounding metal.
Tom
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