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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1937 Ford Cooling Problem -- page: 1 2 3     Robert/Texas 06-29-2019 @ 12:47 PM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 108 Joined: Dec 2009 My ’37 Fordor Deluxe Touring Sedan got hot after driving about 5 miles with an outside temperature of 74 degrees. I returned home and when I got there, I could hear the radiator boiling and it had lost about 3 quarts of fluid (50/50 green antifreeze and distilled water). Note that the engine always ran above 180 on the gauge but never boiled over until now. I have owned the car for 10-1/2 years and the now deceased previous owner gave me all the parts and repair receipts from when it was new. The car had 57,250 miles on the odometer when I bought it and now has 62,332 miles on it. (I’ve only averaged around 500 miles/year). The car had the engine overhauled in 1955 and it still has good compression (around 90# each cylinder) but it does leave a little blue smoke when starting and gets about 250 miles per quart of oil. It cruises nicely at 65 and feels like would easily do 80. It had the radiator cleaned and rodded and the water pumps replaced around 12 years ago. The previous owner told me that he installed 180-degree thermostats and suggested that I replace them with 160-degree ones. I didn’t follow is suggestion as I was not convinced that this was needed. One thing that I’ve noticed is the wrong paint might have been used on the radiator. I say this because it is shiny, like body paint, unlike the radiator paint on my other old Fords. At 85, I’m reluctant to jump into fixing this too fast but any thoughts on this and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Robert. supereal 06-29-2019 @ 1:24 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 If the overheating occurs at low speeds or idling, the cause is usually low coolant circulation. A loose belt or water pump problem is likely. If the problem appears when on the road, often it is a restricted radiator flow, due to buildup of internal corrosion, or material in the fins such as insects, etc. Old radiators can lose cooling capacity over time as the fins become loose from the tubes from vibration or flexing during use. The obvious cure is to replace the radiator. Many hope that isn't necessary due to the cost. Years ago, when I worked for a Ford dealer, our radiator shop had two full time workers repairing radiators, keeping them very busy. As to paint, that used was a very thin type. A heavier type might interfere with cooling, but it would be rare. I would remove the thermostats and run plain water before investing in a new radiator. I am the same age as you, and I know facing a big cost can be unwelcome, but probably necessary if you want a dependable car. ford38v8 06-29-2019 @ 1:27 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2779 Joined: Oct 2009 Robert, 12 years is a long time without the radiator being cleaned and rodded. I would suggest that you find an old time full service radiator shop, and request them to do a full diagnosis and service to your cooling system to include exhaust gas in coolant check before removing and checking flow, boil-out, rodding, and specify a very light coat of radiator paint on the tubes/fins. Also, beyond your cooling issue, of some major concern to me would be 250 miles per quart of oil! Alan srg 06-29-2019 @ 10:36 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 66 Joined: Feb 2019 Mine overheated a couple of months ago (1937 Deluxe Fordor), and I started with the cheapest fix. A new radiator cap. Bingo, no more problem. If that's not it, check your belt tightness. Robert/Texas 06-30-2019 @ 7:07 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 108 Joined: Dec 2009 Many thanks to all of you who are trying to help me with this problem. I think that the problem is with the water pumps. I’m sure that the fan belt is adjusted properly. If it were tighter, it would probably damage the generator bearings. The belt in my “34 roadster is adjusted this way too and it has no overheating problems. Having said this, I notice the following. When the engine is cold, it is hard to turn the water pump pulleys by hand. When a bit warm, it seems impossible to turn them. The fan belt looks good but where it rides on the pulleys, it feels rough as though it has burned on them. The now deceased previous owner was the third owner of the car and had only owned it for two years. He told me that he had replaced the water pumps with new/rebuilt ones and gave me the old ones with the car. These old pumps turn easily by hand. I may send them out for rebuilding. You folks on this site are terrific and I thank you again. Any more info/suggestions will still be appreciated. Robert supereal 06-30-2019 @ 2:21 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Send your water pumps to Skip Haney. He is a pro, and at our shop we use his service. You can reach him at 941-505-9085 or 941 637-6698. His email is skiphaneyfl@aol.com. Quick turnaround, and always a fair price. large logo 06-30-2019 @ 4:13 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 4 Joined: Oct 2009 test TomO 07-01-2019 @ 8:58 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7264 Joined: Oct 2009 The water pump bushings are lubricated from a small hole in the block that feeds the small hole in the water pump. The oil is from the timing gear splash. If that port is plugged by sludge in the block or the pump, the bushings will bind. You should probably check to see that the pumps are getting enough oil before you install rebuilt pumps. Tom Tom 37RAGTOPMAN 07-01-2019 @ 9:25 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1969 Joined: Oct 2009 hi Napa has a excellent replacement fan belt with the CORRECT ANGLE, to match the pulleys , this is very important that the belt make full contact with all the pulleys,and there is no slipping, hope this helps 37Ragtopman Robert/Texas 07-02-2019 @ 3:48 AM reply profile send p.m. New Member Posts: 108 Joined: Dec 2009 Thanks again for everybody’s help. I can’t do more this week because my wife and I have medical appointments (95 miles from here) every day except the 4th. My 60-year old son-in-law plans to come here to help this weekend. He’s a mechanic who works for a car dealership in Houston but likes working on old cars like mine. I found a leak where the radiator core meets the upper tank, so our current plans are to pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop about 50 miles from here. The owner has been there since 1951 and I had a gas tank repaired there about 15 years ago and he did a good job in it. I’m going to try to use a NAPA fan belt and if this doesn’t work, I’ll get the water pumps rebuilt. It’s a good time to do this as this Texas summer heat and humidity makes it less fun to drive an unairconditioned car. Robert

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