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EFV-8 Club Forum / 1932 Ford Discussion / intake manifold install

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Posted By Discussion Topic: intake manifold install

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jerry_356
06-13-2024 @ 9:58 AM
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Feb 2024
          
You may remember that the generator bracket on my'33 broke sending it into the radiator. Well the radiator is being recored and I have a "new" manifold. While searching for install methods (lock nuts or no lock nuts, gasket sealer vs no sealer, length of bolts as there were 10 1 1/4" and 10 1 1/2") present when I removed the manifold), I found a site where the exhaust ports were being blocked to prevent the manifold/carb being heated. Is this a common practice? As this is a fair weather car I see no need to heat the manifold but ?????

carcrazy
06-13-2024 @ 11:31 AM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The new manifold gasket you will be using should seal the manifold gasket properly to the block without using any extra sealer. Torque all of the bolts to 25 ft-lb and use a pattern working from the center of the manifold outward in both directions. If yours is an aluminum manifold use flat washers under the bolt heads.

I would not block off the exhaust passages in the intake manifold. This heat will help keep the fuel/air mixture more uniform for better combustion.

ford38v8
06-13-2024 @ 4:42 PM
Senior
Posts: 2758
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The manifold being heated or not being heated has nothing to do with the fuel-air ratio. The only consequence of blocking those heat riser holes is a longer period of warm-up to full operating temperature, which would not be an issue unless you are in a colder climate.
A benefit from blocking them will be a reduction in under-hood temperature, translating to reduced fuel evaporation and resulting stalls in heavy traffic. Separating the two exhaust sides will also give a more defined exhaust note, which tends to be louder than otherwise, creating wide grins on all who listen for such happy sounds.

Alan

jerry_356
06-15-2024 @ 1:23 PM
Member
Posts: 17
Joined: Feb 2024
          
Had another thought. As I remember small aircraft had/have heated intakes to prevent icing. I guess if the the humidity was high enough and temperature was correct icing could occur in cars leading to stalls.

carcrazy
06-15-2024 @ 7:48 PM
Senior
Posts: 1650
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Jerry,

You are correct. The worst conditions for carburetor or intake manifold icing are 100% humidity and 35 degrees F temperature.

Icing can occur in several different places within the carburetor: choke plate, venturis and throttle plates. If you have a PCV system, icing can also occur withing the intake manifold downstream of the carburetor.

40 Coupe
06-22-2024 @ 1:06 PM
Senior
Posts: 1673
Joined: Oct 2009
          
My suggestions is to leave the heat risers open as original. I like to spread a thick layer of chassis grease over the intake gasket then work the grease into the gasket gently with your fingers. The proper bolts and washers, in the proper finish are available from Third Gen Auto in Tenn. see their web site. Tighten evenly in a couple of steps.

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