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Discussion Topic:
Temp Increase at Higher RPMs
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supereal |
04-04-2010 @ 9:30 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Flathead water pumps are fairly efficient with the flat vanes, and the new "turbine" impellers are an improvement. Both sides discharge directly into the block, so the rotational direction isn't a factor. The pressure cap provides several advantages: It keeps the coolant from being pumped out the overflow, it raises the boiling temperature of the coolant, and the added pressure helps prevent hot spots in the water jacket that generate steam vapor, reducing both cooling and pump efficiency. In unpressurized early systems, loss of coolant out the overflow was common, and legendary Ford overheating was often the result of low coolant level as a result. If you are losing coolant from a pressurized system, the cap could be leaking, the radiator could be overfilled and coolant expansion is pushing it out, or you have an internal leak, such as a bad head gasket.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-03-2010 @ 7:46 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
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I had a thought you might have ahead gasket acting up,on the one side efecting the difference in temp. a leak down test might tell the story, I had thought that thermostats might even out the temp, and also maybe slow down surging that makes the coolant spill out at high speeds' I know of SUPERREALS thought , I have the same one, but trying something is not a total lose,it might run the same temp with or with out thermostats,if you have different problem, did you get one of SKIPS, overflow valve ? TO KEEP THE COOLANT in ? I would imagine this is a must have with his pumps, and the amount of water they push, 190 is a little high, but also going pretty fast if you are using stock rear ratio, what ratio are you using, maybe also a hi-speed rear lower the engine temp and give you better fuel milage, do you have any coolant lose ? I always wondered on the water pumps, they both spin in the same direction, how come the both pump water in the same direction,you would think that one side would have to run hotter then the other, the old FORD WATER pumps had straight vanes, were as SKIP'S have angles on the vanes to push more water, I have a set of them, and never really looked at them to see if the vanes went in different direction's ONE FOR LEFT AND ONE FOR RIGHT, just my 3 cents worth,37RAGTOPMAN
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Steves46 |
04-02-2010 @ 12:00 PM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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Ken, thanks for asking but honestly, I have not had the opportunity since posting to see if I made any headway. I double checked the belt, which is a new Ford script belt from C & G and it is mounted correctly with 1 inch of play. I readjusted the height of the driver's side SS upper radiator pipe to match the height of the passenger side. (I think there may have been a possibility that it may have been slowing the flow at higher RPMs) and added a bottle of Bar's stop leak as recommended by Skip since I have a set of his rebuilt pumps. Since I am looking at a warm weekend coming up, hopefully I can break away and go for a good ride and see if anything improved. I'll let everyone know how I made out. Thanks. Steve
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supereal |
04-01-2010 @ 3:11 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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No, no,no! The faster the coolant travels thru the radiator, the more efficient the process. The old myth about slowing down the coolant is just that. The longer the coolant stays in the engine, the hotter it gets. The radiator has a finite ability to transfer heat to air, and raising the coolant temperature reduces the effect. It is a "zero sum" situation. This thing continues to pop up.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
04-01-2010 @ 8:01 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1965
Joined: Oct 2009
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one thing to think about maybe the coolant travels though the radiator to fast not allowing the coolant to cool off, maybe trying a set of 155 degree thermostats , might make run cooler, its worth a shot my 3 cents worth 37RAGTOPMAN also make sure you fan belt is not slipping check the ajustment and for being glazed or hard from age or oil-grease on it,? make sure it is clean water pumps pulley spin ok, not stiff and make sure the radiator is full when hot.
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39 Ken |
03-31-2010 @ 5:33 AM
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Member
Posts: 380
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bump... Steve. How'd you make out on this o'heat problem? Ken
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JebNY |
03-28-2010 @ 4:09 PM
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Member
Posts: 44
Joined: Nov 2009
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No idea if this will work, but.... You can pick up an infrared thermometer for around $10 at Harbor Freight (all thought when I just looked they didn't have the cheap one on their web site only a $25 one). After you have made a run and see the temperature discrepancy, stop leaving the engine running and pop the hood and point the infrared thermometer at each metal pipe. Get close so you are getting a measurement of the pipe not the surrounding area. I always like excuses to buy another toy (I mean tool). I bought one of the cheap ones just to have around.
Jim... 1950 F1 Stake
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supereal |
03-28-2010 @ 8:54 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Also, remember that the right and left water jackets are separate, and only join at the radiator. If you find one side consistently hotter than the other, and there are no stats, you may have a leaking head gasket.
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Steves46 |
03-27-2010 @ 5:48 PM
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New Member
Posts: 167
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks Alan. I am not running T-Stats but will first look at the hose pipe to be sure it's not creating a possible block as higher rpms equals increased water flow. Like I mentioned, the one hose/ss-pipe is definately lower than the other.
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ford38v8 |
03-27-2010 @ 5:39 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2766
Joined: Oct 2009
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Steve, You have the perfect means at hand to help diagnose and isolate the problem. Switch the senders before you do anything else and then you'll know if you're searching for a phantom. A hose blockage as you suggest, a faulty thermostat, a slipping belt, bad pump, even a blockage in the radiator can be the source, but the first thing is to switch the senders to be sure.
Alan
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