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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1934 It Cranked 3-5 sec.. thereafter "click"

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1934 It Cranked 3-5 sec.. thereafter "click"

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lbford25
06-04-2016 @ 3:31 PM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: May 2015
          
trying to load the movie again

lbford25
06-04-2016 @ 8:14 AM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: May 2015
          
Yes, I replaced the battery cables and secured all ground connections. Replaced the relay. Then it cranked pretty. I also had to put it in 3rd gear and move it back and forth after I put in the starter. Now I am working to clean the generator. looking for a retainer and seal. Here is the new cranking...Thanks for the tip

This message was edited by lbford25 on 6-4-16 @ 3:27 PM

cliftford
05-23-2016 @ 9:39 AM
Senior
Posts: 845
Joined: Jan 2014
          
Given the length of time it has been sitting, I would remove both battery cables, solenoid or starter switch to starter cable, .engine to frame ground strap, clean the connections until they are bright, then reinstall.

lbford25
05-23-2016 @ 8:55 AM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: May 2015
          
Thanks. The starter checked out good at the auto shop. They put in a "leather"type gasket which had worn out. The rest of the starter did look new. My grandfather did some work on the car before he had a stroke in 1957. I'll check the solenoid and replace the wire to the starter and battery.


TomO
05-23-2016 @ 8:22 AM
Senior
Posts: 7256
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Most solenoids used on the Fords, require that the center terminal be grounded in order to pick. Others require 6 volts on the center terminal and a 3rd kind has 2 terminals.

To check if yours is the first kind, measure the voltage at the center terminal. If it is battery voltage, the terminal must be grounded to pick the solenoid. If it is 0 Volts, the terminal must have 6 volts applied to it. If it has 2 terminals, one of the terminals needs battery voltage to pick the solenoid and the other is used to bypass the ballast resister.

If your solenoid picks, but you do not have voltage to the starter, the solenoid is bad.

Tom

40 Coupe
05-23-2016 @ 4:23 AM
Senior
Posts: 1678
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Your starter motor looks new inside. Very unusual, may have already have been changed. The 34 Ford originally had a ignition ON/OFF switch on the steering column and a foot operated start button on the floor below the brake & clutch pedals. Sounds like your car was modified for a solenoid. There are a couple of slightly different solenoids and you will have to determine which you have and how electrically it functions. The problem may be in the solenoid or the switch to energize the solenoid, if the battery cable to the starter is not being energized.

lbford25
05-22-2016 @ 8:10 PM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: May 2015
          
My '34 Tudor battery cranked( 6 volt Optima is great) several times for 3- 5 seconds very very smooth whirl from the dash starter. It is not frozen after sitting 60 years! Seemed to almost start. We replaced only spark plugs, the plug wires, and the distributor caps and drained marvel oil( through plugs as well) and regular oil through. Gas line disconnected.

Then, the "click" from relay switch and no more crank. Completely dead. The line seems to carry voltage and the battery direct to the starter was a dead. I'm having the starter checked out. It looks clean, brushes and all. Take a look. Should I straight out buy a new starter with new bendix? Or what do I check for? Help please.


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