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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Shock absorbers

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Shock absorbers

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silverchief
05-11-2016 @ 1:49 PM
Senior
Posts: 522
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I'm getting ready to replace all four tubular shocks on my 1946 coupe. I want good quality, and would like to order locally from NAPA or O'Reilly.

Any recommendations regarding best brand, and be sure to do or do not suggestions, or helpful procedures will be much appreciated.

For example need I remove the front wheels for ease of access, and does rear installation require any manipulation of the spring.

Thanks

nelsb01
05-11-2016 @ 9:38 PM
Senior
Posts: 983
Joined: Oct 2009
          
I replaced my tubular shocks on my 1949 a couple of years ago and hunted around for a good quality replacement -- ended up at Pep Boys. Sorry, don't remember the brand, but ask to look in their parts catalog. They look correct and after a coat of black paint (they come in blue only) they installed quickly.
Yes, you do have to remove the front wheels, but you only need to jack up the rear and get under the vehicle. (use jack stands for safety reasons)

Hope this helps.

This message was edited by efv8CofAAdmin on 5-12-16 @ 7:48 AM

Drbrown
05-11-2016 @ 10:07 PM
Senior
Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
          
Because must vehicles "sit" differently from each other (i.e. body lowering, front-to-rear rake, lower vs higher), recommend you measure the front and rear shock mounting post-to-post distance with vehicle at-rest, and estimate the approximate weight on the front and rear shocks (i.e. vehicle weight divided by say 60% front 40% rear) ... a bathroom scale unsuitable. Then talk to the intended manufacturer(s) and see which of their products will work properly under those circumstances.

I encountered this concern because my '47 stock rear tubes have only 3 vertical inches of available body movement space in the rear which doesn't leave much distance for shock action. Otherwise I would have risked undercarriage damage if I had removed the rubber bumpers between the axle and frame, or I would have had to raise the body up.

woodiewagon46
05-12-2016 @ 10:21 AM
Senior
Posts: 703
Joined: Nov 2012
          
I have Bilstein shocks on the front and rear of my '46 wagon. I called their tech line and gave them the weights of front and rear and the centerline distance between the mounting holes. They gave me a recommendation of which shocks they would suggest. The ride is excellent.

silverchief
05-12-2016 @ 11:21 AM
Senior
Posts: 522
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Thanks guys. O'Reilly Monroe has shocks for both the front and rear...on order.

Took the old Monroe shock in, and number from it does not match anything in their current catalog.
Based on pics of their shock I suspect the ones on my car are much better quality. I will see. Only thing that concerns me is I can operate old shock by hand fairly easily - and not sure I should be able to do that.
Also there are indications it was leaking.

woodiewagon46
05-13-2016 @ 7:42 AM
Senior
Posts: 703
Joined: Nov 2012
          
Chief, if your shocks are that easy to compress and are leaking, you should change them. You will find that your new shocks will be very hard to compress. Just make sure as Drbrows suggests that you have enough travel in the new shocks. Too little movement in both up or down motion can cause suspension damage.

Drbrown
05-15-2016 @ 8:19 AM
Senior
Posts: 570
Joined: Nov 2013
          
Silverchief and for possible benefit, if any, of other members ..... My (late) '47 was made with tube shocks on rear and the old arm-style shocks on the front. A previous owner(s) had lowered the front and rear of the car by reducing the number of spring leaf's and I only have 3 inches clear at rear between frame and axle and on rare occasion it bottom's-out. Fast-forward: I bought an old shock conversion kit from a club member to change the front to tube-type shocks. He included the old tube shocks that were with it .... too rusty to see any manufacturer's name. This may or may not help but those old front tube shocks are 2 inches diameter and when collapsed, the mounting bolt holes measure 11 inches center-to-center. Let us know how you make out.

silverchief
05-15-2016 @ 1:25 PM
Senior
Posts: 522
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Unable to match old shocks in hydraulic with any of our usual sources. Gas shock only thing available and declined based on advise of club members. One club member had among his many spare parts, a like new pair of Gabriel "Red Ryder" shocks for my front - which is what I needed. Swapped them out - and after a little trial and error - they work like a charm. I got lucky.

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