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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 36 water pump pics

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 36 water pump pics     Bob Watts 02-26-2016 @ 7:53 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2015 Not sure why I can't get this right it seems I can't shift to select several pics at once and have to post one at a time. Is that normal? Maybe it works better in IE? 40 Coupe 02-27-2016 @ 6:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1678 Joined: Oct 2009 Bob: Your water pump looks like 35 and not 36. The difference is the lubrication Zirk fitting for 35 comes out straight (very close to the rear of the pulley) and the 36 is angled slightly rearward. The original pumps do have a part number embossed into the cast iron. Did your water temperature gauge work?? Again from your photo it appears to be broken with the tube from the gauge inside the pump. The tube usually stops and connects to the Burdon tube bulb outside the attachment nut. The best way to remove the stuck bulb is to pry it out from inside the water pump. Go to Optimas web site they have instructions for charging their battery. You could have a problem with the car electrical system so do disconnect one of the battery cables before charging with a 10. Amp. charger. Yes you can only post one photo at a time at this web site. Bob Watts 02-27-2016 @ 9:55 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2015 40 Coupe: Yes the gauge worked and I really want to keep it that way. The tube inside the pump wiggles ever so slightly. There are 2 other flatheads 34 and 32 in the garage and the tube is inside the nut as well. Thanks! Bob 40 Coupe 02-27-2016 @ 3:46 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1678 Joined: Oct 2009 This is a photo of an NOS 36 temperature gauge and bulb. There is not a flat end to the large end bulb and all of the small tubing is outside the nut and water pump. If your large bulb wiggles continue to wiggle it and push it out of the pump, maybe take a pick and clean the inside of the water pump where the gauge is inserted, after the nut is removed. Remove all rust and crud. Bob Watts 02-27-2016 @ 8:32 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2015 40: Thanks so much for the pic of the NOS temp bulb assembly. Apparently mine have corroded quite a bit. Are these available? I've looked in the usual places and haven't found it as a replacement. I want to keep the 36as original as possible but the RH waterpump was leaking so I thought I'd try some Drakes while maybe having my pumps rebuilt but I better determine if they are original first. Bob 40 Coupe 02-28-2016 @ 6:41 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1678 Joined: Oct 2009 You will not find a NOS one ($$) at the typical aftermarket suppliers. Try Little Dearborn. There is a much less costly replacement that you can most likely find at the aftermarket suppliers. In the past these units lost their red liquid color and became hard to read. I believe Baxter Ford Parts may have someone who can rebuild an original but then again the red color of the liquid??? Give Don Baxter a call and ask. I believe there is also another rebuilder Williamson instruments, look up some phone numbers on the web and call. Bob Watts 02-29-2016 @ 10:43 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 25 Joined: Dec 2015 40: Didn't have my needle nose at the 36 but when I got them the copper tube wiggled out easily unscathed. It's a slightly different look than the pic you sent me. Upon reassembly it was all good and the gauge still works at least as well as before. I took a 20 mile or so drive and all was well until I idled too long at a friends house and just as I was leaving the car died and wouldn't restart until 30 minutes or so had gone by. Is overheating when idling symptomatic of ignition woes? I checked the radiator temp at the top on both sides a couple times during the drive and it was around 180-195 but after it died it had gone over 200 on the IR temp gun. A spritz of starting fluid wouldn't light it up until it had cooled and from what I've been able to gather I think its the coil. From what I've read aftermarket coils are low quality is that the case? Who are people using to rebuild them, Skip Haney? And can you just rebuild them infinitely or should I think about another hobby? (hahaha) I'd really like a reliable driver. Is there such a thing staying original? Sorry for all the questions just trying to get the 36 sorted out and really appreciate all the help! 39 Ken 03-01-2016 @ 5:02 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 380 Joined: Oct 2009 Have Skip Haney rebuild you original coil and water pumps. Then you'll have total confidence in you engine cooling and starting while warm capability. 180 is a good driving temp. It is very normal for the temps to rise after shut down. Skip's coil rebuild uses modern materials and procedures and the coil will perform at all temps expected in you 36. He will also recommend an Eichlen IH 200 condenser. Give him a call or an e-mail for details. Ken Contact info: George (Skip) Haney12168 Azure Court Punta Gorda Florida 33955....ph day 941 637 6698...Email skip@fordsrus.com

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