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Discussion Topic:
Early 36 flathead, rebuilt coil, no spark
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Buckd44 |
11-08-2015 @ 1:03 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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I had a problem with not all cylinders getting spark. New caps, wires and a rebuilt coil, everything ran great for about 5 miles. Then nothing. No spark at any cylinders. Engine turns over though. Sounds like a bad connection somewhere but have no idea? Thoughts? Thanks, Nate
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carcrazy |
11-08-2015 @ 4:44 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1653
Joined: Oct 2009
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I would check all of the connections first. The connections between the coil and the rotor could have opened up with engine heat. If you have a spare condenser, install it to see if it cures the problem. If still no luck, the coil has probably gone bad.
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MG |
11-08-2015 @ 4:52 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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Do you have voltage to the input/primary winding of the coil? Check for loose connections....
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Buckd44 |
11-08-2015 @ 5:34 PM
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Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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The whOle distributor, coil and all was sent down to Florida to be gone over and the coil was rebuilt. Rebuilt coil is bad after 5 miles?
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MG |
11-08-2015 @ 5:45 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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Maybe you've got an intermittent on/off ignition switch. Again, check for voltage on the input side of the coil with the ignition switch ON....
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Buckd44 |
11-09-2015 @ 5:43 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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I found this (picture attached) by passed that with new wire. I have 2.2 volts at the coil. I had 6.8 all the way till the block on the firewall, other side of it is 2.2. I assume this is some sort of resister. (My electrical knowledge is poor.)
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MG |
11-09-2015 @ 7:27 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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You should have another volt plus the 2.2 volts at the coil. I hope you eliminated that frayed wire at the ammeter. There should be no direct electrical contact there. The ammeter works by induction from the insulated wire that passes through the 'loops' on the back side of the ammeter. I hope that the rest of the wires in your car are not in the same condition as seen in the picture you posted....
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Buckd44 |
11-09-2015 @ 7:39 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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Yes, I bypassed the amp meter. So what is my next step? You're saying I should have 3.2 volts at the coil? Assuming the resister is bad? Why else would I be losing that volt? Thanks.
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MG |
11-09-2015 @ 7:55 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1254
Joined: Nov 2009
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Yes. The maximum voltage for original type Ford coils is 3.5 volts with the points closed. If you are measuring just 2.2 volts at the coil side of the resistor, the resistor is suspect. Maybe the resistor is going 'open' on you when it heats up. This would explain why "everything ran great for about 5 miles." If the resistor is going 'open' the engine won't fire. Resistance increases with heat and those resistors do get very hot.... Have you tried to start the car since you bypassed the ammeter wire?
This message was edited by MG on 11-9-15 @ 8:02 PM
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Buckd44 |
11-15-2015 @ 3:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 24
Joined: Oct 2015
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New resistor, 3.5 volts at the coil. Still, no spark anywhere.
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