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Discussion Topic:
Head stud hole
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Steve S |
03-11-2010 @ 5:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Feb 2010
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Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but heck if the price is right then I'll buy yours, and save the money on taking a gamble with getting this one running!
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37RAGTOPMAN |
03-11-2010 @ 4:37 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have a 49 53 MERC engine if you need one, JUST IN CASE I am in MID COAST MAINE 37RAGTOPMAN
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Stroker |
03-11-2010 @ 1:15 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1460
Joined: Oct 2009
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ACORN COVERS! IMHO that would be like installing fake wire wheel covers, or the fake chromed Cadillac tail fins they used to put on 49 Chevys. Studs have an advantage over the 49-53 capscrews (bolts). You are not relying upon the thread interface in the block casting during cylinder head torquing, as the SAE (NF) thread pitch on the nuts gives more control over clamping pressure. Good studs are manufactured with rolled threads. I suspect that Ford switched from studs to capscrews mainly to control material and labor costs. If one really want to make it bulletproof, consider Helicoiling all of the holes, and installing good quality ARP studs.
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Steve S |
03-11-2010 @ 10:05 AM
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Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Feb 2010
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Interesting idea, I hadn't thought of acorn caps. Since I'm planning to replace all the bolts anyway, I'll probably just go with studs though. Four of the old bolts were broken off in the block so I'm not planning to use them again!
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supereal |
03-11-2010 @ 9:49 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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You can use studs instead of head bolts, but the simple solution is to use the bolts and put acorn caps on them.
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alanwoodieman |
03-11-2010 @ 9:33 AM
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Senior
Posts: 868
Joined: Oct 2009
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use studs,unless you are going for points, in these old blocks the cast iron has been thru so many heat cyles the less you "use" the block threads the better
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Steve S |
03-11-2010 @ 8:16 AM
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Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Feb 2010
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Thank you sir! The engine is already out so that isn't a problem. I don't trust myself to perform such a task so I will haul it to a machine shop.
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37RAGTOPMAN |
03-11-2010 @ 7:24 AM
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Senior
Posts: 1958
Joined: Oct 2009
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hi you could use a old head,for alignment,then by using a sleeve inside the head stud hole,and a undersize drill that just fits inside the sleeve you could straighten out the hole and work you way up, by using a few different sleeves,and then helicoil the hole,this so you could install a new head stud, you , its worth a try if you have some mechanical knowledge,or you could farm it out,go to a good machine shop,you might be able to trailer the truck to one and have it done, it would save pulling the engine, there seems like some rust on the cylinder walls, this should be removed wiht a cylinder hone, use it very lighthly. do before you start the engine, let hear how you made out,!!!!!!!! my 3 cents 37RAGTOPMAN
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Steve S |
03-10-2010 @ 8:26 PM
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Member
Posts: 54
Joined: Feb 2010
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I guess that leads me to another question. Since this engine is in a '39 pickup, I was thinking of using studs instead of bolts to make it look more correct. This would also allow me to change thread size on the one hole if necessary. Would using studs be a bad idea?
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supereal |
03-10-2010 @ 12:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Given the amount of "core shift", it is impossible to know the thickness of any part of the block. That is what makes cylinder boring "interesting". On the 8BA or 8CM blocks, we use ARP locking head fasteners to secure the heads on old cast iron blocks.
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