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Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1939 Distributor

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1939 Distributor

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ford38v8
10-04-2015 @ 11:00 PM
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The condenser mounts external to the coil.

Alan

40cpe
10-04-2015 @ 6:15 PM
Member
Posts: 477
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Porsche, The voltage going up and down while cranking the engine indicates that the points are opening and closing and making contact.

Removing and replacing the distributor won't change the timing, but moving the points clearance could. If you remove the distributor, be aware that the tab on the back of the distributor is very slightly off-set. It must line up with the slot in the cam for the distributor to seat correctly. Do not try to make the distributor seat by tightening the bolts.

Porsche
10-04-2015 @ 6:02 PM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2015
          
I have put a new coil on.
Is the condenser not inside the distributor cap?

ford38v8
10-04-2015 @ 5:00 PM
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Tom's advice is golden. Do not remove the distributor, follow Tom's advice in his last sentence.

Alan

Porsche
10-04-2015 @ 3:50 PM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2015
          
I followed Tom's suggestion. When I hooked up the multi meter it read 5.3 volts. When I hit the starter the volts dropped. So I put a new coil on. Still do not have spark. Now when I hit the starter the volts jump around for 3 volts to 11.
I think the problem is the points or condenser, but I do not know how to remove the distributor. it looks like there are two bolts one on each side. Can I remove the distributor without moving the fan or belt?
Will the distributor only go back one way or can I mess up the timing if I do not put it back correctly.
I am a novice at this and would appreciate any help.
Thanks

TomO
09-29-2015 @ 8:36 AM
Senior
Posts: 7271
Joined: Oct 2009
          
First determine that the distributor is the problem. Connect a voltmeter COM lead to the wire going to the coil and the POS lead to ground. It should read either 6 volts or around 4 volts. Tap the starter button and the reading should change. If it does not change, the distributor could be bad.

If you have no voltage reading, the ignition switch is bad. If you have the changing voltage readings, the coil or condenser could be bad.

Tom

ken ct.
09-28-2015 @ 11:25 PM
Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
          
Ford dist must come out to work on them period. You mentioned " pop the cap" 39 stock dist has 4 caps 2 on each side. 42-48 dist has 1 or 2 caps on the extream front of it. Which one is on there. Could be other problems as others have indicated ?? from dist. rebuilder ken ct.

ford38v8
09-28-2015 @ 4:48 PM
Senior
Posts: 2788
Joined: Oct 2009
          
Don't mess with the distributor unless you have determined that the coil isn't delivering. Don't mess with the coil unless you determine that the ignition switch and ballast resistor isn't delivering 3 to 4 volts.

Alan

4dFordSC
09-28-2015 @ 3:47 PM
Member
Posts: 266
Joined: Oct 2009
          
The distributor must be removed and partially disassembled. This may may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7r7e-3sqtc

Porsche
09-28-2015 @ 2:56 PM
Member
Posts: 10
Joined: Jul 2015
          
Hi All
I have a 1939 ford v8. Car will not start and there is no spark. It was running 3 weeks ago. I am thinking that the points may be dirty or need replacing but I am not sure how to get at the distributor.
If I pop the distributor cap are the points and condenser removable? Do I have to unscrew a plate?
The distributor is in a very difficult spot to get at.
I would appreciate any tips or suggestions on this.
Thanks

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