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Discussion Topic:
Chasing an old problem: Slow Cranking Flathead
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BrianCT |
02-28-2010 @ 7:38 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks. I had never seen a pair and knew he made the wooden boats , so jumped to a wrong conclusion.
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1934 Ford |
02-27-2010 @ 6:40 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Not ply wood, but Gar Wood. Gar Wood made these Aroflo Fender Guards of steel and made wooden speed boats, so maybe he was a competent wood worker too. "Aroflo Fender Guards" sold new in 1934 for $8.00 a pair.
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BrianCT |
02-27-2010 @ 3:37 PM
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Member
Posts: 95
Joined: Oct 2009
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Very nice. I have wondered about those fender skirts. They are plywood ,aren't they? Could a fairly competent woodworker make a usable set?
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1934 Ford |
02-27-2010 @ 9:18 AM
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Extra grounds were sugggested. This is one reason the problem was hard to find. I have a braided engine ground strap to the frame and a battery ground strap to the frame. I had a false sense of being grounded when the old enemys of the 6 volt system, Rust & Corrosion, got to me with the battery ground. Now if I can find the air leak in my fuel line I'll be ready to take the car to Texas fore the 2010 AACA Sentimental Tour.
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supereal |
02-23-2010 @ 8:41 AM
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Posts: 6819
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A simple diagnostic tool is a voltmeter, even a cheap one. Just place the probes on each side of a part of the circuit and read the voltage when the circuit is energized. The result is the voltage lost in that section. It is called "IR" drop, the product of the current thru, and the resistance of the link. At 6 volts, it takes only one place to render the circuit defective.
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supereal |
02-22-2010 @ 10:25 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We always install a cable from the ground strap point on the engine or body, to one of the starter mounting bolts. A 12 volt cable with eyelets on each end is OK. An Optima battery is also great for old cars, as it supplies over 800 cold cranking amps, and eliminates the acid corrosion of cables, terminals, and battery boxes. Lightly or seldom used conventional lead-acid batteries develop sulfation and high internal resistance from long periods between charging, resulting in loss (voltage drop) under high loads, such as starting.
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51f1 |
02-22-2010 @ 9:56 AM
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Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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"I hate the thought of going to 12 volts" I hope everybody that ever considers going to 12-volts reads this. Unless you are loading down your car with lots of modern accessories, 12-volts is not necessary. Fix the problems, and everything will be fine.
Richard
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trjford8 |
02-21-2010 @ 6:35 PM
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Posts: 4214
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34Ford, it doesn't hurt to run extra grounds.One from the body to the frame and one from the engine to the body. Good grounds for your headlights and tailamps will also make them brighter.
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1934 Ford |
02-21-2010 @ 5:24 PM
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Senior
Posts: 573
Joined: Oct 2009
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Progress Report: I crawled under the car and removed the main ground cable to the frame. I took my grinder and made the frame shine like new. No paint, no rust. Then I replaced the cable and the car started with a seemingly fresh starter speed. But it ran awful! Seemed like about 4 or 5 cylinders. @!#%*%! This distracted me from my starter problem. I thought, now what? Electrical? Ignition? Carburetor? Then with it running I discovered the fuel pump was blowing bubbles back into the gas filter, so I need to install another fuel pump before I get to my initial problem. Tomorrow! I was amazed at how rusty and nasty the frame got behind my ground cable in only 6 years. Those who suggested that the ground was the culprit, were right. Thanks. I guess I cleaned up the battery, switch, and starter connections and ignored the frame ground. It has something to do with not liking to roll around on the floor at age 64. The next garage will have a lift because I saw lots of other stuff under there that needs some attention too. I'll post again after I get the fuel pump on and can test it warm & hot & cold, but I'm encouraged.
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37 Coupe |
02-21-2010 @ 4:55 PM
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Member
Posts: 362
Joined: Oct 2009
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Exactly where a lot of my slow starting problem occured,because of overdoing the paint job on the starter,after I cleaned paint off mounting surfaces sure helped or cured. Also I like the cables from John Brillman,check out www.brillman.com.Heavy cables . To see if it is a grounding problem,run a ground cable from positive post to somewhere on the engine block or a bellhousing bolt,bet it spins then. Restoration and our thinking everything needs heavy coats of paint is the problem
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