Post to the EFV-8 Forum
Post Classified Ads
Shop the Online Store

User Login

Not Registered Yet? Click Here to Sign Up!

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

FORUM RULES: Users agree to these Rules when using Forum.

The site administrator reserves the right to change the terms and conditions of the user agreement without prior notice to the user. It is the responsibility of the user to regularly review the terms of this agreement.

The user agrees to the following terms:

All information that you provide to us for your membership is correct.
You will not use your membership to spam, harrass, or exploit other members in any way.
Vulgar, Abusive, Racist and Sexist Language will not be tolerated.
Commercial-type sales postings will not be allowed.
No mass posting or flooding of the boards is allowed.
No Advertising of parts or cars; no Ebay or business/commercial ads (please use the "Classified" for ads Wanted or For Sale).
VIEWING MULTIPLE TOPICS ON SCREEN: You can choose to see more than 10 Topics at a time ... Log In and choose "Preferences" from the top bar on the Forum page. Scroll down and Change the "Default Topics Returned" parameter to 25 or 50, and save the changes. Since this setting is stored in your browser 'cookies' (if enabled), it seems to use that stored value even if you are not logged in. So, if you use a PC that you haven't logged into the forum from, the setting still seem to remain at the default.
EXTERNAL PHOTO LINKS ON FORUM: You can still use external photo links in your posts on the new forum. They follow the rules of any link in that they have to have the URL link qualified down to the full image file name (example: .jpg). The links will open in a new browser window, the same as an uploaded image attached to a post. Since an image attachment to any post does not display inline with the post, the results are the same. You can use multiple external links within a post. This link is from photos on a site from Don Clink's 'Deuce@75' albums:

http://donclink.com/deuce_75_1/images/dscn2950.jpg

Using links from photo sites such as Photobucket can help in "size" issue with uploaded attachment files. For best viewing in web browsers, photos should be around the 800x600 pixel range, and probably not more than 1024x768. Most cameras today store HUGE jpg image files, as the default settings are in the 7, 8, 10, and 12Mb image sizes. The image files that are then attached are very large, and the browser can't display the full image size without using the scroll bars. Use the re-sizing functions of your photo editing software to reduce the image to 800x600, which reduces the file sixe and the image load time in the browser. Don uses Google's free Picassa3 software, which is an excellent photo management product. All of the photo albums of the Deuce, Grand National, and Auburn that are links on the NORG site were built using Picassa's web creation functions. And it's free? (THANKS to Don Clink for the info!)
HOW DO I SHOW MY EMAIL ADDRESS ALONG WITH MY USERNAME? You can LogIn on the Forum, and select PREFERENCES. On this page Members can add optional information such as their City,State, Country; Occupation; Hobbies: list a Homepage; list AOL Instant Messanger Handle; Signature; "Make Email Address viewable to others;" and even change the number of Default Topics shown on a page. WHEN others click on your profile, they will see this information.

EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 39 Standard Tudor Floor pan installation.

Reply to Discussion | New Discussion

<< previous || next >>

Posted By

Discussion Topic: 39 Standard Tudor Floor pan installation.

Gary M.

02-12-2010 @ 3:08 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009

Wow,thats some slide show!Thanks for sharing that with us all.My floors are not nearly as badly rusted as that,however your pictures show in depth everything that is involved in the replacement process.I will definitely take notes from these pictures.Nice work!!!

mdsbob

02-12-2010 @ 9:45 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 9
Joined: Oct 2009

Gary M,
I think some comments hear have been good, but one method I've not seen mentioned in installing the floor pans is the butt weld. In your post you mentioned "I'm concerned about the finished product. I would like it to look as neat and inconspicuous as possible"
I think that the butt weld provides this. You also mention, "Being a sheet metal worker by trade" so, I don't think I need to convince you that a proper butt weld is as strong as the base metal.
I have a friend who has done a couple of complete floor replacements in '49 & '51 Ford wagons. Below is a link to his site where you can see the pictures. I think that thread on his site should get you pretty revved up about doing you floor work. I doubt yours could be a start with any less than what they started with.
Almost forgot to include that the pans (in the provided link) are Paul Bradley pans. I for one, would not consider sourcing them from anyone else as long as what I was looking for is part of his offering.
Bob

http://www.mercury-edsel-lincoln.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=109

This message was edited by mdsbob on 2-12-10 @ 9:50 AM

ford38v8

02-11-2010 @ 10:21 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009

Buford, I think Gary has the right idea. Paul Bradley has the presses and makes his floor pans right here in the States. I think Gary would also tell you that sheet metal patches may oilcan when you hit a bump one wheel at a time.

Alan

Gary M.

02-11-2010 @ 12:50 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009

I have not purchased the new floors yet,however the existing floor was patched neatly before I got the car. I do not plan to patch with sheet metal but with Paul Bradley floor pans(Ive heard alot of good things about his product).Patching with flat sheet metal does not give the strength and good appearance that a machine pressed pan does.The machine pressed pan has ribs for strength and all the bends and knock outs where they belong.Being a sheet metal worker by trade,using flat metal would certainly be much cheaper and easier for me,but I would not be happy with the finished product.Paul Bradley has a websight.

supereal

02-11-2010 @ 10:08 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009

We just got the new Bob Drake winter catalog, and it shows that they are reproducing the 39-40 floor pans. When replacing floor pans, much depends on the condition of the originals. Attaching new metal to any old material with rust is a losing proposition, so the old pieces must be cut back to firm metal. We try for a good sized overlap, then install some pop rivets to hold the panels in place so they can be wire welded. Heed Alan's advice regarding support of the body as the old floor is removed. This is particularly crucial in open cars. Once the replacement floor is tacked in place, double check the doors, in particular, to see that the body hasn't "racked" before you proceed.

buford8

02-11-2010 @ 8:21 AM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 50
Joined: Oct 2009

Gary, I too need to replace some of the floor in my '39 Standard. I was wondering where you got the new flooring or if you plan to make it from sheet steel? I will need to put new rocker panels in mine and will need to patch in the area where the front seat bolts to the floor. I have ordered new rockers and cage nuts but I think I might try to fabricate some of the other stuff.

ford38v8

02-10-2010 @ 6:05 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009

Gary, before you do any cutting and while doors are closed and aligned properly, tack weld lengths of thinwall conduit zigzag from point to point at all crucial areas that may distort once you begin your cutting. This must be done before, not after you discover you should have. That's my contribution.

Alan

Gary M.

02-10-2010 @ 5:16 PM

reply profile send p.m.

Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009

I am replacing the front sections of the floor pans on my 39 Tudor Standard.I know there are many ways to join the old pan sections with the new,but I would like to know which method is the most common.I assume an overlap with tack welds is the easiest way,but Im concerned about the finished product.I would like it to look as neat and inconspicuous as possible.I am removing about 24" from the wood in the front to the cut. Thanks for your ideas...

<< previous || next >>

NOTE: YOU MUST BE A REGISTERED USER AND BE LOGGED IN TO POST (and reply to) messages in this forum. If you are a first time user, please click the CREATE A NEW ACCOUNT in the masthead above to register and Log In. After that, all you do is LOG IN to enjoy using this site.

DISCLAIMER: The V-8 Club does no independent testing of any of the opinions, thoughts or suggestions presented in the website on the Forum, in the Tech Tips section, or any section. A reader should consider the website to be a forum wherein differing solutions to a particular set of circumstances may be discussed. Ultimately, the selection of an item for an individual's vehicle must be based upon the independent study of the vehicle owner in consultation with people in the hobby and restoration experts.

Early Ford V-8 Club Forum

Merchandise Questions

Membership Questions