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Discussion Topic:
39 Standard Tudor Floor pan installation.
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Gary M. |
02-12-2010 @ 3:08 PM
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Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009
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Wow,thats some slide show!Thanks for sharing that with us all.My floors are not nearly as badly rusted as that,however your pictures show in depth everything that is involved in the replacement process.I will definitely take notes from these pictures.Nice work!!!
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mdsbob |
02-12-2010 @ 9:45 AM
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Member
Posts: 9
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gary M, I think some comments hear have been good, but one method I've not seen mentioned in installing the floor pans is the butt weld. In your post you mentioned "I'm concerned about the finished product. I would like it to look as neat and inconspicuous as possible" I think that the butt weld provides this. You also mention, "Being a sheet metal worker by trade" so, I don't think I need to convince you that a proper butt weld is as strong as the base metal. I have a friend who has done a couple of complete floor replacements in '49 & '51 Ford wagons. Below is a link to his site where you can see the pictures. I think that thread on his site should get you pretty revved up about doing you floor work. I doubt yours could be a start with any less than what they started with. Almost forgot to include that the pans (in the provided link) are Paul Bradley pans. I for one, would not consider sourcing them from anyone else as long as what I was looking for is part of his offering. Bob http://www.mercury-edsel-lincoln.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=109
This message was edited by mdsbob on 2-12-10 @ 9:50 AM
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ford38v8 |
02-11-2010 @ 10:21 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
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Buford, I think Gary has the right idea. Paul Bradley has the presses and makes his floor pans right here in the States. I think Gary would also tell you that sheet metal patches may oilcan when you hit a bump one wheel at a time.
Alan
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Gary M. |
02-11-2010 @ 12:50 PM
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Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009
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I have not purchased the new floors yet,however the existing floor was patched neatly before I got the car. I do not plan to patch with sheet metal but with Paul Bradley floor pans(Ive heard alot of good things about his product).Patching with flat sheet metal does not give the strength and good appearance that a machine pressed pan does.The machine pressed pan has ribs for strength and all the bends and knock outs where they belong.Being a sheet metal worker by trade,using flat metal would certainly be much cheaper and easier for me,but I would not be happy with the finished product.Paul Bradley has a websight.
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supereal |
02-11-2010 @ 10:08 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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We just got the new Bob Drake winter catalog, and it shows that they are reproducing the 39-40 floor pans. When replacing floor pans, much depends on the condition of the originals. Attaching new metal to any old material with rust is a losing proposition, so the old pieces must be cut back to firm metal. We try for a good sized overlap, then install some pop rivets to hold the panels in place so they can be wire welded. Heed Alan's advice regarding support of the body as the old floor is removed. This is particularly crucial in open cars. Once the replacement floor is tacked in place, double check the doors, in particular, to see that the body hasn't "racked" before you proceed.
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buford8 |
02-11-2010 @ 8:21 AM
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Member
Posts: 50
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gary, I too need to replace some of the floor in my '39 Standard. I was wondering where you got the new flooring or if you plan to make it from sheet steel? I will need to put new rocker panels in mine and will need to patch in the area where the front seat bolts to the floor. I have ordered new rockers and cage nuts but I think I might try to fabricate some of the other stuff.
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ford38v8 |
02-10-2010 @ 6:05 PM
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Senior
Posts: 2764
Joined: Oct 2009
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Gary, before you do any cutting and while doors are closed and aligned properly, tack weld lengths of thinwall conduit zigzag from point to point at all crucial areas that may distort once you begin your cutting. This must be done before, not after you discover you should have. That's my contribution.
Alan
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Gary M. |
02-10-2010 @ 5:16 PM
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Member
Posts: 218
Joined: Oct 2009
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I am replacing the front sections of the floor pans on my 39 Tudor Standard.I know there are many ways to join the old pan sections with the new,but I would like to know which method is the most common.I assume an overlap with tack welds is the easiest way,but Im concerned about the finished product.I would like it to look as neat and inconspicuous as possible.I am removing about 24" from the wood in the front to the cut. Thanks for your ideas...
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