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Posted By Discussion Topic: Turn Signals -- page: 1 2     1934 Ford 02-18-2010 @ 5:43 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 573 Joined: Oct 2009 I just did this job yesterday and used the J&L Enterprise 6v LED 3rd Brake/Signal light mentioned above. It's almost invisable but the people behind me now know what I going to do. No more getting the finger from young drivers who don't know hand signals. I going to take the car on a long Tour on Sat. and will have up to date signals and worry less about being rearended. trjford8 02-14-2010 @ 8:37 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 4214 Joined: Oct 2009 Curt, some of the aftermarket wiring suppliers make a toggle switch for turn signals that you can mount under the dash.Check with American Auto Wire. It works just like the regular turn signal switches, but has the advantage that you can place it anywhere you want in the car. I also noted in another post that you can use the turn switch from an early VW or VW bus(57-to about 62). They clamp on the column, they are small, and you can paint them the same color as the column. They are not reproduced, so you have to look for them at swap meets, etc. supereal 02-13-2010 @ 12:12 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 When installing turn signals, we usually don't install dual contact sockets in the front parking lights, as they are seldom, if ever, used anyway. This saves a lot of work, as well as additional wiring. Norm 02-11-2010 @ 5:56 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 85 Joined: Oct 2009 Thanks for the help. I'll check the actual wire gage and go from there!! Norm donclink 02-11-2010 @ 8:39 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 45 Joined: Oct 2009 Norm, I wouldn't be concerned using a reputable turn signal with 16 gauge wires. The standard 6 volt 1154 dual contact bulb is rated at 16.6 watts for stop/turn and .5 watts for tail light. That translates to 2.63 amps for the stop and .75 amps for the tail light filament. The 7-wire turn signal switch installation isolates each bulb to its own wire. Copper 16AWG wire has a Max Enclosed Amp rating of 13 amps. Not a problem on 6 volt systems in my opinion. 6 volt LED lighting is a fraction of that draw... The resistance of 16AWG is .004 ohms/ft. Using a 15ft length, at 2.63amps, you will only have a .15v loss per stop/turn lamp. This message was edited by donclink on 2-11-10 @ 10:12 AM ford38v8 02-10-2010 @ 7:54 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 2758 Joined: Oct 2009 Norm, I've also seen products that, like you said, have 16 gauge wire, claiming to be good for both 6 & 12 volt applications. It makes me wonder, did those manufacturers really approve the ad copy for those products, or isn't there a Chinese translation for 6 & 12 volt? Alan Norm 02-10-2010 @ 7:34 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 85 Joined: Oct 2009 I have been getting ready to put turn signals on my '48 F-1. I've bought a kit that's marketed for 6V and 12V, but when I looked at it I got concerned about the gage of the wires. They look fine for 12V, but look pretty light weight for my 6V truck. I don't want to be adding undesireable resistance into circuits that don't need such challenges! Has anyone dealt with this issue? Any comments? curts41 02-10-2010 @ 3:25 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 32 Joined: Nov 2009 donclink Thank you very much for the information you supplied me, I am going to do exactly what you submitted. I will look for a vintage seven wire column mounted switch and also install the third light. Great idea. Curt donclink 02-10-2010 @ 10:27 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 45 Joined: Oct 2009 Curt, I forgot to mention a 3rd Brake Light w/Turn Signals in addition to the standard rear stop/turn lamps. This is probably the best safety change I have made to date on my '47 Tudor. J&L Enterprise makes a 6v LED 3rd Brake/Signal light kit. It's a very low profile unit that mounts with bracket and adhesive contact pads to the rear window. I ran the wires for it down behind the rear seat back. No holes drilled, and it wires in parrallel with the other stop/turn signal wires. People see it at any time of day, and especially at night. Consider using the Ron Francis Wiring low pressure brake light switch as well. Amazing results... http://www.jandlenterprise.com/products/brakelighter.htm P.S. The 3rd brake light has been installed for about 4 years now, and it went through Concourse and Dearborn judging the last two years. I didn't tke it out for judging... donclink 02-10-2010 @ 10:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 45 Joined: Oct 2009 Curt, The tail lights on your '41 already have a dual contact socket, so any good column mounted turn signal unit will work. You will need a 7 wire turn signal kit. The single brake light wire that you have now will have to be split into 2 wires, right and left turn/stop wires. The front parking lamps can be used with brighter single contact bulbs wired into the turn signal switch (you will loose the park lamp function), or dual contact sockets and bulbs can be used to retain the park lamps. I added the dual contact sockets to the front lamps on my '47. I used an vintage 'Western Auto' kit for the sockets. I'm not sure what's available for a '41 park lamp. There is a 'Turn Signal Installation Tips' document on the NORG web site that might help: http://norgv8club.org/norg/index.php/headliner-newsletters-and-tech-tips/category/10-norg-tech-tips

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