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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / 1936 steering wheel removal

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Posted By Discussion Topic: 1936 steering wheel removal -- page: 1 2     dmayhew 06-13-2014 @ 6:01 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: May 2011 I want to remove my standard, not Banjo, steering wheel from my 36 Sedan to restore it but I don't want to start prying and pounding before I know a bit more of what I'm doing. Can anyone give me a little guidance. Thanks. (new member).As an after thought I should mention I haven't even been able to remove the light switch or horn button yet. This message was edited by dmayhew on 6-13-14 @ 8:08 AM ken ct. 06-13-2014 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1513 Joined: Jan 2010 Mine comes right off with a pull on it,try it,it might surprise you. ken ct. supereal 06-13-2014 @ 7:21 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The best, snd safest, way to get the steering wheel off the shaft is use a puller designed for the job. There are two types. If you have threaded holes on either side of the shaft, and the type with fingers that fit under the wheel hub. Both have a screw that bears on the end of the shaft. Be careful with the threads on the hollow shaft. It is easy to damage them. With any puller, leave the nut on the shaft after loosening it. This will reduce the possibility of swedging the shaft, making reinstallation of the nut difficult. Steering wheels are made of a steel core with hard rubber molded around it. Prying or pounding is very likely to open cracks in the rubber. Some wheels come off with little effort, while others that have never been removed are firmly attached to the shaft. CharlieStephens 06-13-2014 @ 8:48 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 888 Joined: Oct 2009 Ken, His last sentence ended with "...I haven't even been able to remove the light switch or horn button yet". I think it is important to mention that you were talking about the wheel and not the horn button. As you know and we should warn him the horn button is attached to a rod that extends through the steering shaft through the steering box and comes out at the end. He needs to remove the electrical switch at the bottom (it is held on by a wire bale) and push up on the spring loaded piece that extends into the actual switch to move it. A second person needs to hold the horn button from the top to keep it from moving up. Some people have been successful using a small piece of wood pressing on the horn button and held by the rim of the steering wheel. Once the spring is compressed he should be able to see a "U" clip around the shaft. Once the clip is removed (don't drop it, they are easy to loose) the rod (including the horn button) will be free to be removed from the steering shaft. Next the fun part, you cannot bend the rod or it will bind when reinstalled. It is an easy job on a roadster or phaeton but a problem with closed cars unless you have the roof off. Unbolting the steering box from the frame might give a little more working room. I will leave it to others for more suggestions. Charlie Stephens This message was edited by CharlieStephens on 6-13-14 @ 7:58 PM JM 06-14-2014 @ 7:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 Charlie, I believe the last part of the original post was added after Ken made his post. I know it was not there the first time I read this. As Charlie mentioned, be careful removing that horn rod. If it gets bent and reinstalled bent, the lights could come on when you turn the steering wheel. Some of these steering wheelswill come right off with little or no resistance while many are really on tight and require a puller. I made a puller that comes up under the center hub and screws down on top the the steering shaft. I do exactly what Super said to do to protect the threaded end of the shaft. I had one wheel that was so tight that when it finally popped lloose, the wheel and puller must have jumped about two feet. Patience and care are your friends when removing these wheels. John CharlieStephens 06-14-2014 @ 8:45 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 888 Joined: Oct 2009 Sounds like I owe Ken an apology to even think that he made a mistake. I knows he his stuff and just assumed he read the post quickly and focused in on the wheel itself, sorry Ken. Charlie Stephens supereal 06-14-2014 @ 12:04 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 I didn't see it on the original post either, Charlie. It now shows an "edit". I assumed he had already gotten down to the wheel, too. John's caution about the horn tube is important. To my knowledge, they are not being reproduced. On a closed car, the steering box usually has to be unbolted, along with the steering tube dash bracket, to get the tube all the way up and out. I did one in a Model A coupe, and ended up removing the rear window. For someone who hasn't removed the switch at the bottom, it can produce some other challenging work to get it back on in the correct position. CharlieStephens 06-14-2014 @ 12:30 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 888 Joined: Oct 2009 You might try to find an original steering wheel puller to rent. Maybe a local club. Be advised they are not the current style that has two bolts that go into taped holes in the steering wheel. The correct one goes under the wheel and pulls up as you tighten it. They used to be available in the V8 times and may still be. You might want to drill and tap the steering wheel so you can use a regular puller in the future. Charlie Stephens dmayhew 06-15-2014 @ 2:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 2 Joined: May 2011 Thanks all of you for your suggestions and guidance, I think I am going to start to tackle this problem tomorrow and I find your help invaluable, thanks again....Dan (dmayhew) JM 06-16-2014 @ 4:15 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 822 Joined: Oct 2009 ..... This message was edited by JM on 6-16-14 @ 4:17 AM

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