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Discussion Topic:
Adjusting timing on 40 Ford
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TomO |
03-13-2014 @ 7:59 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7264
Joined: Oct 2009
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Do you have a good spark at idle? (1/2" minimum from a plug wire to ground). If not, try replacing the condenser. Also check the wiring of the new coil as JerryW said and the carbon brush contact with the rotor. Also try pulling the choke out slightly when it starts to act up. You may not be getting enough fuel to the carburetor.
Tom
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bwhitworth |
03-12-2014 @ 4:55 PM
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Posts: 59
Joined: Nov 2010
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I'll contact Skip tomorrow. Thanks Bob
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JerryW |
03-12-2014 @ 4:36 PM
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Posts: 13
Joined: Aug 2010
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I would look at the coil phasing, plus(+), should go to the points. I also run my distributor with no vacuum advance plunger, vacuum line plugged and full advance set at 24 degrees, total.
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joe b |
03-12-2014 @ 1:20 PM
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Posts: 389
Joined: Oct 2010
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As Tom O suggested send it to Skip Haney 29436 Taralane Drive Punta Gorda, Fl. 33982 1-941-637-6690 He does excellent work with a 2 to 4 day turnaround. He is highly recommended nationwide. The cost is around $65.00
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bwhitworth |
03-12-2014 @ 10:35 AM
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Posts: 59
Joined: Nov 2010
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I have the dist back together. While I had it apart I noticed the centrifugal weights were stuck, I got them unstuck and reset the points at .015". I put it back together and runs good at idle. It will rev up to about 1000 before it starts popping in the exhaust. I guess I am at the point of sending to a machine for setting the points. Who do you recommend in or near Florida?
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rotorwrench |
03-12-2014 @ 8:16 AM
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Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Jul 2012
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With rough running and popping in the exhaust, it sort of sounds like it might have a valve sticking open. If the flattys set for a long period, it's not uncommon to have one or more sticky valves. The unburned air/fuel mixture goes into the exhaust and can ignite in there causing popping or back fire.
This message was edited by rotorwrench on 3-12-14 @ 8:18 AM
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supereal |
03-11-2014 @ 2:32 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As the others have said, the initial timing is preset by the offset drive tang. The adjuster on the side of the distributor has limited effect on operation. When we set up a distributor on our Sun machine, we usually put it at the highest +side. As the engine ran poorly before you switched coils, i'd guess that the timing gear has skipped a tooth or, it it is the press on type, it slipped on the camshaft. I have seen partially sheared crankshaft gear keys, as well.. Either would explain the cause of your problem. You will have have to pull the timing gear cover to see what has happened.
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ken ct. |
03-11-2014 @ 1:36 PM
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Senior
Posts: 1513
Joined: Jan 2010
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Bob.set the points with the adaptor plate installed on the dist,its the only way to get accurret gap. ken ct.
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bwhitworth |
03-11-2014 @ 11:23 AM
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Member
Posts: 59
Joined: Nov 2010
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Yes, the car ran before I started to work on it. It was running poorly, it sounded like the spark advance was not working. When I give it gas it would make a snaping sound out the exhaust. I have taken the dist completely apart and checked the point gaps and it looks closer than .015". I am going to re-gap it and try it again.
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TomO |
03-11-2014 @ 7:16 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7264
Joined: Oct 2009
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Did the car run before you installed the adapter and the round coil? It makes a difference in how to diagnose your problem.
Tom
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