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Discussion Topic:
KR Wilson timing fixture
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supereal |
10-09-2009 @ 9:31 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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Will do, Tom.
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trjford8 |
10-09-2009 @ 7:28 AM
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Senior
Posts: 4214
Joined: Oct 2009
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Bob,I know this is off topic,but can you e-mail me the instructions on converting an oil bath air cleaner to a dry element. I worked on a Merc woody for a guy and he wants to eliminate the oil bath.
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MTLott |
10-09-2009 @ 3:45 AM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2009
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You said, "As for setting dwell on a static machine, good luck ... " I guess I took that wrong. Randy asked for help with his new KRW, which he was no doubt excited to get. Instead of encouragement, he got a wet blanket. (Go ahead and have the last word.)
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supereal |
10-08-2009 @ 10:56 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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No ridicule intended. The KRW fixture can assist in the setting of the points to a greater degree than just a feeler gauge. We set up a fair number of distributors each year, some of which were badly worn, and others that were sent by owners who tried repair, but found the results were not acceptable. The Sun or Heyer machines allow us to actually see the distributor in action at various speeds so we can diagnose problems with defective or improperly adjusted points, weak springs, or bushings that allow the shaft to wobble. It also allows us to see the action, or lack of it, in relation to the advance mechanism. A properly repaired and adjusted distributor should operate troublefree at least five years or more under the limited driving we give our old cars. I am sorry you feel I was ridiculing the members who had questions. I simply tried to expand on the subject.
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MTLott |
10-05-2009 @ 5:00 PM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2009
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Supereal, there is no argument about strobing distributors. However ... You completely dismiss the use of the KR Wilson fixture. Thousands of flathead guys have relied on its use for more than half a century. It is important to give credit to the validity of its use rather than toss it on the trash heap. I have two Sun machines ... well, really one and a half since we're not sure whether or not I'll ever get the other one to work properly again. A lot of folks have read what we have written, and it's important to not panic them into thinking that they are making a mistake using the KRW ... they are not. The question of what is reasonable is always appropriate. Insisting that guys ONLY use a strobe machine to set up their distibutors ... Why not let the boys enjoy the hobby without putting such high standards on them. Anyone learning to set up a distributor on a KRW should be applauded not ridiculed.
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supereal |
10-05-2009 @ 8:47 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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There is a routine for calibration of the Sun machines, but we keep a known correct distributor to check ours when it appears they need attention. So far, we haven't had to adjust it. We sent a couple of the meters to Bob Masters in Tennessee to be repaired and calibrated. He sells machines and parts. For the KRW fixtures without the degree scale, the pin drops into the hole to signify when the points should open. As for setting dwell on a static machine, good luck, particularly with the poor quality of the repro points out there. One of the most prominent problems is point "bounce", due to weak springs, which only show up as the distributor is turning.
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MTLott |
10-04-2009 @ 12:12 PM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2009
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For clarification, with just a straight-edge you can only set the initial timing advance. You cannot set the dwell ... as with a KR Wilson fixture. In order to set the dwell you must be able to read the degrees that the points are open/closed ... or guess and set the gaps. The later KR Wilson is designed to do a good job of just that with the added Dwell Scale. The earlier model does OK but is not as versatile. An ohmmeter set on "beep" does work great. Strobe machines obviously have several advantages but one thing that's rarely mentioned is that they can require calibration. With a couple of guys in the country actively doing this work, Sun technicians are a bit hard to find.
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supereal |
10-04-2009 @ 9:22 AM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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As said above, the distributor machine is the best way to set up a distributor, in any case. The KRW fixture, and others of its kind, serve the purpose of adjusting the points in relationship to the position of the cam. We had one at the Ford garage where I worked, but almost never used it. If you have an ohmmeter, you can set the points just as well using a straight edge. The process is a bit long to quote here, but I can scan it for those who want it. The meter serves the same purpose as the light on the KRW. I've done it, then checked it on our Sun machine, and the results are very close. If you do have a fixture, be sure to accommodate any backlash in the distributor, or the setting will not be accurate.
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RSS |
10-04-2009 @ 8:19 AM
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Member
Posts: 37
Joined: Oct 2009
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Thanks MTLott, I mainly purchased the timing fixture to have, and it would be nice to try it out. the wheel doesn't have the degree markings on it. I will buy the instructions for it from a parts vender next time I order parts from one of my cars. Randy
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MTLott |
10-03-2009 @ 5:35 PM
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Member
Posts: 38
Joined: Oct 2009
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Randy, In case you need it, here is a link to identify the different distributor models: http://www.philbingroup.com/fhcatalog.htm Your fixture should work as mentioned up through '48. I don't have the adapter but it should be for the later two-bolt distributors. If your instructions in the Service Bulletins are the same as mine, they're not what you need especially if your fixture has a degree scale. Most fixtures with the metal box have scales, but occasionally one shows up without the scale. My Service Bulletin instructions are for the wooden box ones with no scale. Unfortunately, the KR Wilson instructions are not well written even though they show the use of the degree scale. It's really simple but they make it sound complicated. (An A/P should have no trouble.)
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