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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / '40 opera coupe value?

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Discussion Topic: '40 opera coupe value?

Stroker

12-23-2013 @ 11:13 AM

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John: The old-time "right way" was to use brass as a "filler", and then only use lead as a final finish surfacer. Brass also had to have a very thin coating of lead in order to allow paint to bond. Too thick a lead fill isn't much better than "Bondo". Labor costs were also cheaper than new parts, so a lot of time was spent massaging, heat shrinking, hammer welding and getting things really close before applying any filler.

supereal

12-23-2013 @ 9:37 AM

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John: in that case, I assume that there will be no rust "creep" because lead needs a good solid base. When I worked for a Ford dealer in the 50's, Bondo hadn't been on the scene. The only plastic was a light putty on the surface. If the lead wasn't applied correctly, parts of the patch, usually at the corners, lifted. The magnet trick isn't perfect, but does a good job on the quicky "restorations" so common now.

oldford2

12-22-2013 @ 5:29 PM

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Bob,
What if the restoration was "done right" like in the old days and the filler was lead?
John

kubes40

12-21-2013 @ 5:09 PM

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As others have stated, we (and most certainly YOU) need to see the car prior to being able to offer any kind of decent appraisal.
Perhaps I have been experiencing different things than others that weighed in but $20 - $25 does not buy an honest car in decent shape. Period.
Mike "Kube" Kubarth

supereal

12-21-2013 @ 1:01 PM

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I always carry a small magnet when I look a car over. It will reveal the presence of body filler, indicating rust or other damage. Even the most carefully applied filler will eventually separate from old metal.

deuce_roadster

12-19-2013 @ 10:08 AM

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x2 what triford8 says. Keep in mind prices vary in different parts of the country. Having someone with expertise in areas which you don't is an excellent idea. I saw a 35 3w coupe that was a finished car but whoever did the work welded in the patch panels and metal filled roof while the body was on a twisted frame. There was really no way to make it right, the rt front and lf rear fenders were 1.5 inches lower then their mates. I agree the body and sheetmetal is the most critical thing to look at, and the hardest or most expensive to fix. Gook luck I hope it is a good car for you if you pick it up.

trjford8

12-19-2013 @ 9:53 AM

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This is somewhat of a tough call without photos or specifics such as the age of the restoration, if the owner can show if the motor has been rebuilt, etc.
The market is a little soft and going by your description I would say $20,000 to$25,000. If you are looking to buy the car I would take a knowledgeable person with you for a second opinion. Another V-8er familiar with 40 Fords would be preferable or a body and paint person who can evaluate the paint and sheetmetal. This is the most important part of the car. Do not go into this purchase without some advance knowledge or assistance if you are new to the hobby and are spending some serious money.

This message was edited by trjford8 on 12-19-13 @ 3:45 PM

jjarvi

12-19-2013 @ 8:20 AM

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I'm looking at a 40 opera coupe that has a better than decent frame off restoration, New LB interior, a couple body patches welded in, a 40 engine, complete car with nothing missing. Maybe a handfull of repopped parts.

I know opinions vary widely but if I could get some feed back on what you should expect to pay I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

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