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EFV-8 Club Forum / General Ford Discussion / Any way to tel is rear end is 6 or 10 spline

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Posted By Discussion Topic: Any way to tel is rear end is 6 or 10 spline -- page: 1 2     TomO 11-04-2013 @ 10:06 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 After going over some reference material, you may already have a 80# pump in your car. They were introduced in the 46 Mercury as P/N 41A-6600A. There will be a pressure relief valve on the side of the oil pump, just above the pickup. You should check to see if the spring in the valve chamber has 80 oz pressure at a length of 1.380. The P/N for the pump relief spring is 8BA-6654. Tom larryb346 11-03-2013 @ 5:33 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 27 Joined: Jan 2010 The gauge reading are from a mechanical gauge. I am using 20/50 castrol. The weather here is in the 50's so think pressure will be lower if the weather was 90 degrees. I would still like the pressure to be higher but at least I am not afraid to drive it 5 miles or so now. I plan on driving it some tomorrow and see what the pressure does. I likely still need to drop the pan and see how much sludge there is and clean it out and change the pump. So am I understanding it right I can't increase the pressure using a 80 lb pump because the 50 lbs relief valve is in the intake area? TomO 11-02-2013 @ 5:31 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 7252 Joined: Oct 2009 The stock 50# oil pump does not have a pressure relief valve. The pressure relief valve is under the intake manifold at the front of the engine. Your current oil pressure readings sound very normal with 10W-30 oil. You will get slightly higher readings with 20w-40 but it is not necessary, you engine will survive and run well with 10w-30. If you change to an 80# pump and wish to use the dash gauge, change the sender to an 80# sender. With the 80# sender full scale is 80# and half scale is 40#. It sounds like it is a very nice car, and in my opinion it would be a shame to make it into a hot rod. A complete engine rebuild would cost less than making the changes to install a later drive train. If you are having handling problems, check for wear in the front end, tie rod ends and king pins. Reair any wear in these parts and your Ford will drive like it should. Tom 40 Coupe 11-02-2013 @ 5:22 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1675 Joined: Oct 2009 Ford changed from the 10 spline to the 6 spline about 1935. yours should be 6 spline. 40 Coupe 11-02-2013 @ 5:20 AM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 1675 Joined: Oct 2009 5# at a hot idle is not bad! For the flathead it is more about the volume that the pressure. You may want to go to 20W-50 oil, if the engine is broken in with enough mileage. If your using a mechanical gauge change back to the electrical and it may read good even when warm. larryb346 11-01-2013 @ 7:09 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 27 Joined: Jan 2010 Somewhat of a update. I changed oil today and the pressure is somewhat higher. I had thought I would have to drop a lot of the front suspension to remove the pan to change the oil pump. It appears I can drop the pan without removing any other parts. I am guessing some gas perhaps contaminated the oil. I replaced the fuel pump and will rebuild the carb before it runs too much. It now holds 20lbs or so at rpm equal to approx 40 mph, and 5 lbs at idle. still not good but a lot better. supereal 09-19-2013 @ 8:58 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 Compared with today's close tolerance engines, the old ones are very loose, even when first assembled. Lots of old cars didn't provide pressurized oil to the rod bearings, Chevrolet chief among them. A trough and dipper system was used instead. The wide clearances require a plentiful oil circulation, thus the short drain intervals. Without the arrival of detergent oils and excellent additive packages, there would be far fewer running old cars today. larryb346 09-19-2013 @ 7:01 PM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 27 Joined: Jan 2010 Thanks for the info. So sounds like dropping the pan and cleaning it out and replacing the pump with a 80 lb pump is in my future. I really appreciate the suggestion. I was thinking likely the cam bearings were bad and that's where the oil pressure loss was coming from. I really want to keep the car original. Larry supereal 09-19-2013 @ 1:55 PM reply profile send p.m. Senior Posts: 6819 Joined: Oct 2009 The pressure relief valve is on the 80lb pump, itself. The pump bolts right in. Be sure the pump pickup is firmly attached to the mounting flange. The increase in oil pressure makes the stock gauge mostly inaccurate. The '39 we converted now has a mechanical oil pressure gauge. These cars need to be frequently driven to keep them in reliable condition. Starting them now and then is an invitation to filling the engine with sludge. I try to avoid starting my cars unless I plan to drive at least ten miles. larryb346 09-19-2013 @ 9:30 AM reply profile send p.m. Member Posts: 27 Joined: Jan 2010 Thanks for the suggestions. I really hate to change out the car. I have several street rods and have built a lot of them over the years. Supereal Thanks for the suggestion. Is the pressure valve in the pump? If so would any other changes be necessary to put in the 80 lb pump? This is a really nice mostly original car. It has been parked most of it's life. It was bought new in Peoria Il. The owner died in 1956 and his brother got the car and drove it here to SW Missouri. He said he didn't like the way it drove. So like so many cars he started it ever few weeks then every few months and then the battery went dead and it sat a couple of years then sat for 15 years or so. Friend of mine bought it and couldn't get it running right and it sat another 20 years. He had it painted in late 70's or early 80's the original maroon. In that process they removed the fenders and found a rust spot the size of a dime and fixed that. I bought it about 6 or 7 years ago. He had removed the wiring and had purchased all new original wiring. I got it all back together and fixed all the issues and it runs great, just no oil pressure. I have bought re chromed bumpers and had most of the pitted chrome replanted and the car is very nice, just getting tired of not being able to drive it. If there are no other modifications required to put in a 80 lb pump, no more work that it is to drop the pan and try that I had much rather leave it original and drive it Thanks again and sorry about the book but I guess I am just very frustrated with this car. This message was edited by larryb346 on 9-19-13 @ 9:30 AM

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