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Discussion Topic:
Steering Wheel Needs to Be Sealed ? ? ?
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ersatz |
10-03-2013 @ 11:39 AM
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Member
Posts: 42
Joined: Jun 2010
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Sorry for the delay in getting back, but wife had some health issues. Many thanks for everyone's input! I will certainly repaint the steering wheel first chance I get. I was under the impression that the wheel would be slippery if painted.
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bbook |
10-01-2013 @ 8:48 PM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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One more try for the "before".
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bbook |
10-01-2013 @ 8:02 PM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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I messed up trying to attach 4 pictures. Here is the "before" for the front side "after" shown in the prior message.
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bbook |
10-01-2013 @ 7:56 PM
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Member
Posts: 30
Joined: Jun 2011
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Here are the "before" pictures from an ebay purchase and my "after" pictures from using NuMetal epoxy and Krlyon Fusion spray can paint on the wheel for my 1936 1.5 ton. The wheel currently on my truck is much worse than the purchase, so I had little to lose. I was going to clear coat it, but liked the look and feel after I used 0000 steel wool on the Krylon. It is clearly not show quality, but ok for a first try and for use on this "parade truck" for our farm.
This message was edited by bbook on 10-1-13 @ 7:58 PM
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transbytip |
09-16-2013 @ 7:40 PM
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Member
Posts: 19
Joined: Dec 2011
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My 36 left a residue like you are describing cheap fix go to Tractor Supply purchace a can of Bag Balm rub it on wheel then wipe off will last for quite a while then reapply.Any thing with lanolin will work.
with reguards Cliff. Tipton
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supereal |
09-11-2013 @ 2:22 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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From the looks of the results, I think you ought to go into the business of steering wheel restoration. For many years. the late Munif Alwan did that work, and always had a backlog of jobs.
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jal9846 |
09-10-2013 @ 3:26 PM
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Member
Posts: 53
Joined: Oct 2009
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All, I have had good luck with re-conditioning of Ford V8 steering wheels, with a few very key points to follow. First, always V-out the crack all the way down to the steel core....and taper it out very wide. Second, fill with PC7 two part epoxy...or similar epoxy filler with hardener that can withstand expansion. Third, take care to sand and feather out the epoxy filler well and prime with a good epoxy primer base, follower by flexible filler primer. Finally, apply topcoat either as base/clear or single stage flexible paint. I recently restored a 46 pickup and used black PPG DP90 Epoxy primer as a sealer and final color after all primer and sanding was complete and clear-coated it with PPG DCU2060 Flex n Flat Clear. It resulted in the correct matte to semi-gloss finish, as original for that wheel...with no need to add flex addititive or flatteners to my clearcoat.
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supereal |
09-05-2013 @ 2:47 PM
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Senior
Posts: 6819
Joined: Oct 2009
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If I was going to attempt to fix cracks before painting, I'd use JB Weld as a filler. That stuff sticks to almost anything. I tried PC7 epoxy without success.
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kubes40 |
09-05-2013 @ 7:40 AM
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Senior
Posts: 3395
Joined: Oct 2009
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Hey Tom, That's the stuff, PC7. I could no longer recall the name. I used that stuff for years with fairly good results. Jack Turpin, the famous steering wheel restorer recommended that stuff in his book. Times have changed obviously and new materials have come upon the market. Like you, the modern flex fillers utilized in body shops is the seemingly best way to go at this time.
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TomO |
09-05-2013 @ 7:08 AM
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Senior
Posts: 7250
Joined: Oct 2009
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I restored my steering wheel twice. The first time I just cut v grooves where the cracks were and filled them with PC7 epoxy. The cracks reappeared in a couple of years. The second time I cut the grooves and drilled holes in the sides of the groove to anchor the filler. I used the flexible filler available at body shop supply houses. I also used a flex additive in the acrylic primer and top coats. This was done in 2004 and my wheel still looks like new.
Tom
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